Jump to content
IGNORED

Best Method for Calculating Average Driving Distance


bkuehn1952
Note: This thread is 3227 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

I believe the PGA Tour used to look at two holes each round.  The holes were selected to run in opposite directions to get a reading with and against the wind.  They also tried to pick holes where the players most likely would use driver.  I am not sure how it is done now with "Shot Link" but for the average golfer, this process seems pretty good.  Over the course of the season one would get most types of weather and calculating the drive distance on all par 4/5 holes could take a lot of effort unless one has "gamegolf" or one of those shot tracker systems.

How does everyone else who calculates an average drive distance figure it?

Do you laser/GPS every single drive (par 3's excluded)?

Do you only count holes where you use driver?

How do you count drives that go O.B. or are lost?

Do you exclude drives that are affected by odd circumstances (hit cart path, hit tree)?

I don't track average driving distance but many people seem to know fairly accurately what their average is.  I am curious about the methods used to develop the number.

Brian Kuehn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I believe the PGA Tour used to look at two holes each round.  The holes were selected to run in opposite directions to get a reading with and against the wind.  They also tried to pick holes where the players most likely would use driver.  I am not sure how it is done now with "Shot Link" but for the average golfer, this process seems pretty good.  Over the course of the season one would get most types of weather and calculating the drive distance on all par 4/5 holes could take a lot of effort unless one has "gamegolf" or one of those shot tracker systems.

How does everyone else who calculates an average drive distance figure it?

Do you laser/GPS every single drive (par 3's excluded)?

Do you only count holes where you use driver?

How do you count drives that go O.B. or are lost?

Do you exclude drives that are affected by odd circumstances (hit cart path, hit tree)?

I don't track average driving distance but many people seem to know fairly accurately what their average is.  I am curious about the methods used to develop the number.

GolfLogix can do it as with Swing by Swing.

Droid application called "DriveDistance" (TrueGolfGPS.com) is potentially easier if that's all you want. Pretty much count everything with Driver, OB are measured where they go OB.

Previously, I leeched the data from playing partners.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I walk to my ball, hit the button for a yardage, and then do some quick math for the hole, done.

Driver only, no OB's, no cart paths, only fairways/rough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I tend to put less stock into "average drive" length than I do "typical drive" length. I say this is because factoring in the outlier drives, like the super long ones and the horrible duffs, skews the numbers. That's one thing that Game Golf does a decent job of, it will give you the average of all shots, but it also tells you what your typical/expected distance is with each club.

KICK THE FLIP!!

In the bag:
:srixon: Z355

:callaway: XR16 3 Wood
:tmade: Aeroburner 19* 3 hybrid
:ping: I e1 irons 4-PW
:vokey: SM5 50, 60
:wilsonstaff: Harmonized Sole Grind 56 and Windy City Putter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I tend to put less stock into "average drive" length than I do "typical drive" length. I say this is because factoring in the outlier drives, like the super long ones and the horrible duffs, skews the numbers. That's one thing that Game Golf does a decent job of, it will give you the average of all shots, but it also tells you what your typical/expected distance is with each club.


Good post. Median is more useful than average.

Vishal S.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremie Boop

I tend to put less stock into "average drive" length than I do "typical drive" length. I say this is because factoring in the outlier drives, like the super long ones and the horrible duffs, skews the numbers. That's one thing that Game Golf does a decent job of, it will give you the average of all shots, but it also tells you what your typical/expected distance is with each club.

Good post. Median is more useful than average.

Average drive is only useful for tracking progress.

I'm not convinced knowing your driving distance is all that important otherwise, though. It's more useful to know your iron yardages. The maximum distance for any wood or hybrid is too unpredictable for me. It's not like I'm going to be backing up a driver, hybrid nor anything in between. . .

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Average drive is only useful for tracking progress.

I'm not convinced knowing your driving distance is all that important otherwise, though. It's more useful to know your iron yardages. The maximum distance for any wood or hybrid is too unpredictable for me. It's not like I'm going to be backing up a driver, hybrid nor anything in between. . .

Knowing how far the ball carries on a drive is pretty important. I know I can carry over 240 on a decent strike so that helps me a lot on my league course. How far the ball will roll out is probably the biggest variable in drive length because it's affected by a lot of factors once the ball lands. For example, when it was super wet out my drives were only going about 240-260 total because they were getting basically no roll out. Now that the ground is drying out and I'm getting more roll I'm getting back up to 270-280 again. The trouble is, it's almost impossible to figure out your carry distance on the course unless you can see your pitch mark in the fairway or there is a forced carry that you know the yardage for.

KICK THE FLIP!!

In the bag:
:srixon: Z355

:callaway: XR16 3 Wood
:tmade: Aeroburner 19* 3 hybrid
:ping: I e1 irons 4-PW
:vokey: SM5 50, 60
:wilsonstaff: Harmonized Sole Grind 56 and Windy City Putter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lihu

Average drive is only useful for tracking progress.

I'm not convinced knowing your driving distance is all that important otherwise, though. It's more useful to know your iron yardages. The maximum distance for any wood or hybrid is too unpredictable for me. It's not like I'm going to be backing up a driver, hybrid nor anything in between. . .

Knowing how far the ball carries on a drive is pretty important. I know I can carry over 240 on a decent strike so that helps me a lot on my league course. How far the ball will roll out is probably the biggest variable in drive length because it's affected by a lot of factors once the ball lands. For example, when it was super wet out my drives were only going about 240-260 total because they were getting basically no roll out. Now that the ground is drying out and I'm getting more roll I'm getting back up to 270-280 again. The trouble is, it's almost impossible to figure out your carry distance on the course unless you can see your pitch mark in the fairway or there is a forced carry that you know the yardage for.

Right, so this is why I stated that it's not all that important.

I also carry 245 yards on a decent drive, but trying for a 240 yard forced carry? Probably not. Not anything over 220, which is generally the maximum you and I will most likely see anyway.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Right, so this is why I stated that it's not all that important.

I also carry 245 yards on a decent drive, but trying for a 240 yard forced carry? Probably not. Not anything over 220, which is generally the maximum you and I will most likely see anyway.

I play a hole regularly that has a pond that takes 230+ to carry, depending on where they put the tees at.

I never lay up short on this hole... Ever. The only time I put it in the water is if I pull hook it. I usually end up somewhere between the two trees just off the second part of the fairway. Of the 10+ times I've played this hole this year I've put it in the water twice and I think I only did the same twice all of last year. Knowing that I can carry that pond gives me the confidence to go for it, even on the days I'm having trouble with driver I tend to have no trouble on this hole. It's pretty strange really.

KICK THE FLIP!!

In the bag:
:srixon: Z355

:callaway: XR16 3 Wood
:tmade: Aeroburner 19* 3 hybrid
:ping: I e1 irons 4-PW
:vokey: SM5 50, 60
:wilsonstaff: Harmonized Sole Grind 56 and Windy City Putter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lihu

Right, so this is why I stated that it's not all that important.

I also carry 245 yards on a decent drive, but trying for a 240 yard forced carry? Probably not. Not anything over 220, which is generally the maximum you and I will most likely see anyway.

I play a hole regularly that has a pond that takes 230+ to carry, depending on where they put the tees at.

I never lay up short on this hole... Ever. The only time I put it in the water is if I pull hook it. I usually end up somewhere between the two trees just off the second part of the fairway. Of the 10+ times I've played this hole this year I've put it in the water twice and I think I only did the same twice all of last year. Knowing that I can carry that pond gives me the confidence to go for it, even on the days I'm having trouble with driver I tend to have no trouble on this hole. It's pretty strange really.

The carry doesn't look like the only option for the shot, it looks like there is room on the right over the 180-ish forced carry? If you hit more left the carry grows. . .

On Topic, the golf apps on most phones works pretty well.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Nobody really plays off to the right because there's a tree line just out of the picture here and there's the cart path that runs right through that area. So if you catch that cart path you have no clue where it's going to bounce. I wasn't necessarily saying that the way I play it is the only way to play the shot, just that it is a 230-240 carry that I always take on. Everyone else lays up short of the pond and the cart path leaving them 160+ to the green.

KICK THE FLIP!!

In the bag:
:srixon: Z355

:callaway: XR16 3 Wood
:tmade: Aeroburner 19* 3 hybrid
:ping: I e1 irons 4-PW
:vokey: SM5 50, 60
:wilsonstaff: Harmonized Sole Grind 56 and Windy City Putter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

How does everyone else who calculates an average drive distance figure it?

Do you laser/GPS every single drive (par 3's excluded)?

Do you only count holes where you use driver?

How do you count drives that go O.B. or are lost?

Do you exclude drives that are affected by odd circumstances (hit cart path, hit tree)?

I don't track average driving distance but many people seem to know fairly accurately what their average is.  I am curious about the methods used to develop the number.

Google maps is a good method if you are good at remembering where your ball ended up.

I typically just use Game Golf. I calculate the distance for each club I use.  OB shots do not get calculated into driving distance for me.

Yes I would throw away outliers. If you had to do some math. I would right down how far out the ball goes and how far left or right it goes. Then plot them on some graph paper and find the shots that end up 80% of the time in a grouping. This way you can get your distance and your dispersion.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Nobody really plays off to the right because there's a tree line just out of the picture here and there's the cart path that runs right through that area. So if you catch that cart path you have no clue where it's going to bounce. I wasn't necessarily saying that the way I play it is the only way to play the shot, just that it is a 230-240 carry that I always take on. Everyone else lays up short of the pond and the cart path leaving them 160+ to the green.


This is kind of off topic, but what I was stating is that it is not really a forced carry if you optionally carry it. The second shot for those who layup is a forced carry, and it looks to be less than 80 yards? I just played a course in San Jose that is known for being pretty difficult off the longest tees, and we didn't have any forced carries over 220 yards. The longest was a par 3 which was only 180 yards, and my rental 3W more than covered the distance to the green.

As far as getting back on topic is concerned, there are plenty of apps that do it well, but I don't really have any reason to use them except to monitor progress.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

When I hit a decent shot I get about 215 - 220 carry for my driver, or used to before my shoulders died. The course I play has a water hazard on 16 where they give a distance from a tree to the hazard and to carry the hazard. I shot the distance from the tee to the tree and added it up. It's 210 to the hazard and 230 to carry it. This means I need to hit a 5 wood or 7 wood off the tee. I could hit driver and hope I hit right of the hazard into the rough, but that's a risky shot, so I find it best to lay up and hit an 8 iron onto the green. 3W would be risky because it could roll into the hazard.

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

Spoiler

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I tend to put less stock into "average drive" length than I do "typical drive" length...That's one thing that Game Golf does a decent job of, it will give you the average of all shots, but it also tells you what your typical/expected distance is with each club.

So you use Game Golf and "expected" distance?

Brian Kuehn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I have game golf, and while it's nice for getting yardages for my metalwoods and mid-irons, for 8 iron and shorter the numbers are weird because I have more chip shots with my 8 iron than I do full shots, so it gives 37 yds for my distance, even though I used to hit my 8 iron 140 yds - I don't know what it'll go when I start playing again. I think I'll club up and swing 70% for the first few rounds.

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

Spoiler

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I don't know or care what my average or median driver distance is. All I care is that I can estimate with some degree of relative accuracy how far I'm likely to carry the ball and how much subsequent roll I might get for the current drive, given the current conditions. The way I've learned that is by hitting a lot of drives, under a lot of differing conditions and observing the results. Nothing more to it than that.
  • Upvote 1

In David's bag....

Driver: Titleist 910 D-3;  9.5* Diamana Kai'li
3-Wood: Titleist 910F;  15* Diamana Kai'li
Hybrids: Titleist 910H 19* and 21* Diamana Kai'li
Irons: Titleist 695cb 5-Pw

Wedges: Scratch 51-11 TNC grind, Vokey SM-5's;  56-14 F grind and 60-11 K grind
Putter: Scotty Cameron Kombi S
Ball: ProV1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 3227 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • I kind of figured that might be part of the problem. I’m still guilty of it myself at times and you’re a better ballstriker than I am. I imagine the temptation to go for the flag grows as you get more control over your wedges. Might want to think about shot selection, too. I don’t know how you typically play short game shots but I see a lot of people default to hitting high pitch shots from basically everywhere, to every hole location, without regard for how the green is contoured and how the ball might release depending on where it lands. I know my short game has been steadily improving from expanding my shot selection, overall. Though to be honest, part of that is from necessity because I was really struggling with pitch shots so I started hitting more chips from everywhere, but it taught me a lot more about how to play short game shots in general. NP man. We’re all learning and improving together. It is a really good tool.
    • 2 rounds this weekend, one at my home course and another course that I know well.   Played well for 3 of the 4 nines.    Ended up with an 80 and an 88.  Breaking it down by 9, it was 38, 42, 41, and a tough 47 where I somehow ended up with chipping/pitching shanks where I dropped at least 6 strokes on the last 6 holes.
    • Yikes, how time flies. Here we are, almost ten years later. After prioritizing family life and other things for a long time, I'm finally ready to play more golf. Grip: I came across some topics on grip and think my grip has been a bit too palmy, especially the left hand. I'm trying to get it more in the fingers and less diagonal. Setup: After a few weeks of playing, this realization came today after watching one of Erik's Covid videos. I've been standing too far from the ball, and that messes up so much. Moved closer on a short practice session and six holes today, and it felt great. It also felt familiar, so I've been there before. I went from chunking the bejesus out the wedges to much better contact. I love changes that involves no moving parts. Just a small correction on the setup and I'm hitting it better and is better suited for working on changes. I'm a few years late, but the Covid series has been very useful to get small details sorted. I've also had to revise ball position. The goal now is back of ball in the middle of the stance as the farthest back with wedges, and progressively moving forward the longer the clubs get. Haven't hit the driver yet, but inside left foot or at the toe I suppose. Full swing: It's not terrible. I noticed my hands were too low, so got that to work on. Weight forward. More of the same stuff from earlier days. Swing path is now out-in and I want the push-draw back. When I get some videos it'll be easier to tell. I've also had this idea that my tempo or flow/rhythm could improve. It's always felt rushed around the end of the backswing into the transition, where things don't line up as they should. A short pause as things settle before starting the downswing. Some lessons might be in order. Chipping and pitching: A 12-hole round this week demonstrated a severe need to practice, but also to figure out what the heck I’m trying to do. I stood over the ball with no idea of what I wanted to achieve. On a four meter chip! I was trying the locked wrists technique, which did not work at all. As usual when I need information, I look for something Erik has posted. I’ve seen the Quickie Pitching Video before, but if I got it back then, I’ve forgotten. After reviewing that topic, some other topic about chipping and most importantly, the videos on chip/pitch from his Covid series, I felt like I understood the concept. I love the idea of separating those two by what you are trying to achieve, not by distance or ball flight. With one method you use the leading edge to hit the ball first. With the other, you use the sole to slide it under the ball. I was surprised he said that he went for the pitch 90% of the time while playing. I’ve always been scared of that shot and been thinking I have to hit the ball first. Trying to slide the club under usually ended with a chunked or skulled shot. After practicing in the yard the last days I get it, and see why the pitching motion is more forgiving. It’s astounding how easy the concept and motion is. Kudos to Erik, David and anyone else involved for being an excellent students of the game and teachers. With those two videos, my short game improved leaps and bounds, without even practicing. Just getting the setup right and knowing what motions you are trying to do is a big part of improving. Soft hands and floaty swings feels so much better than a rigid “hinge and hold”, trying to fight gravity and momentum by squeezing the life out of the grip. At least how I took to understand the “hold” part. I also think the chipping motion will help in the full swing. Keeping pressure on the trigger finger to ensure the hands are leading the clubhead and not throwing it at the ball. I've also tried looking in front of the ball at times when chipping, which helps. That's something I've been doing on full swings for a long time, and can make a big difference on the ball flight. Question @iacas: You say in the videos that you want the ball somewhere near the middle of your stance, and that for pitching it's the same. On the videos you got a fairly narrow stance, where inside of the left foot is almost middle of the stance, but the ball looks more inside the left foot than middle of the stance. Is that caused by the filming angle or is the ball more towards the inside of the foot? I often hit chips and pitches from uphill and downhill lies, where a narrow stance would have me fall over. What is your thought process and setup for those shots? The lowpoint follows the upper body, around left armpit IIRC, so a ball position relative to the feet may not be in the same spot relative to the upper body with a wider stance. Practice: I've set up my nets at an indoors location where I can practice at home. I did a quick search on launch monitors (LM), but haven't decided on anything yet. We're probably buying a house in this area in the near future, so I may hold off a purchase until I see what I can get going there. At some point I'd love to get a proper setup with a LM that can be used as a simulator. Outdoors golf is not an option 4-6 months a year here, so having an indoors option would be great. That would also be a place to use the longer clubs. My nearest course is a shorter six hole course where I don't use anything longer than a 21º utility iron. To play longer 18 hole courses I have to drive 1-1.5 hours each way, which I will do now and then, but not regularly. The LM market has changed a lot since Trackman arrived, and more people are buying them for personal use, but it's still need to spend a lot of money for a decent one that can fi. track club path. The Mevo at £305 could perhaps be something to consider. Maybe they have lowered the price to get out units before a new model is launched? It is almost six years old, though perhaps modified since then. It's got limited data and obviously isn't an option as a simulator, but could provide some data when hitting into a net. I'd have to read more about it first. It has to be good enough to be useful for indoors practice. As long as I frequently hit balls on the range or course, I'll get feedback on any changes there.
    • I'm pretty good at picking targets with mid/long irons in hand, but yes lately I have been getting more aggressive than I should be, especially from 100-150. The 50-100 deficiency is mainly distance control, working on that mechanically with Evolvr, but the 100-150 is definitely a result of poor targets.  6,7,8 iron in my hand I have no problem aiming away from trouble/the flag, hitting a very committed shot to my target, but give me PW, GW, and some reason I think I need to go right at it (even though I know I shouldn't). Like here from my last round. 175 left on a short par 5 to a back right flag. Water short right and bunker long. Perfectly fine lie in sparse rough, between the jumper and downwind playing for about 10yds of help. I knew to not aim at the flag here, aimed 40 feet left of it, hit my 165 shot exactly where I was looking, easy 2 putt birdie.   But then there's this one. I had 120 left from the fairway to a semi-tucked front left flag. Not a ton of trouble around the green but the left and back rough does fall off steeper than short/right rough. For some reason I aimed right at this flag with my 120yd shot, hit it the exact proper distance but pulled it 5yds left and had a tough short sided chip. Did all I could to chip it to 8 feet and missed the putt for a bad bogey. Had I aimed directly at the middle of the green maybe 5yds right of the flag, a perfectly straight shot leaves me 20 feet tops for birdie and that same pulled shot that I hit would have left me very close to the hole.    So yeah I think the 50-100 is distance control and the 100-150 is absolutely picking better targets. I have good feels and am strong with distance control on those I just need to allow for a bigger dispersion.    This view is helpful. For the Under 25yds my proximity is almost double from the rough vs the fairway which reinforces that biggest weakness right now being inside 25yds from the rough. But then interestingly enough in the 25-50yds I'm almost equal proximity from fairway and rough, so it looks like I need to work on under 25yds from the rough and then 25-50 from the fairway. The bunker categories are only 1 attempt each so not worried about those.   Thanks as always for the insight, it's been helpful. I'm really liking ShotScope so far.
    • Wordle 1,053 4/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 🟨🟨⬜🟨⬜ 🟨⬜🟩⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...