Anyone play Adams CMB's? (also, when to know you need easier-to-hit clubs)

[bones75]

I played these on rental clubs a few years ago (when my index was ~8), and went out and bought them a few months later cuz I loved them so much.  It's weird cuz I'm asking for reviews on this club, when they're my only set of clubs right now.  But sometimes you lose perspective on how much better/worse other clubs may be when you only swing one set all the time.  I can't tell if I still love em' cuz I don't know how any other clubs feel (occasional stall hitting @ the local golf store doesn't really compare to time on the course).

I guess my general question is if they're too good a club for me.  I fluctuate between an 8 and a 14 index in the past  years (took a 5 month break), I'm a shorter but "more accurate" player when comparing myself to others w/ similar indexes (swing regular shafts, 7i- 145 yards, Driver 240 yards w/roll).  I do like to shape shots, but wouldn't say I'm particularly good/consistent at it.

Was just considering if I go out and by a set of giant cavity backs, if I'll play better at this stage.

Just soliciting thoughts, as I have no intention of spending the $ on a club fitting (unless ya'll convince me otherwise).

Thanks

[Shindig]

My own thoughts on clubs:  I used to be a big believer in getting "players" clubs once one had a semi-competent swing.  I played Mizuno MP-57s for three years, all the while with a handicap typically in the high teens (and it never got under 15, except for one half month where it was 14.8).  

In late 2011, I knew I'd be playing very little golf for the next two years, and I got a set of more forgiving irons.  Even though I'm now better than I was when I played the MP-57s, I can't see switching.  I don't need to control trajectory often enough, I don't shape shots nor do I often desire to, and GIR is just too important for me to consider getting something that may make doing that harder.

[WUTiger]

On 9/24/2016 at 7:14 PM, Shindig said:

In late 2011, I knew I'd be playing very little golf for the next two years, and I got a set of more forgiving irons.  Even though I'm now better than I was when I played the MP-57s, I can't see switching.  I don't need to control trajectory often enough, I don't shape shots nor do I often desire to, and GIR is just too important for me to consider getting something that may make doing that harder.

A recurring story I hear during scrambles: Golfer X used player's irons in college, playing the rather well. But, five years later X has gone to GI irons: the forgiveness of GI helps his scores more than the uber-workability of Player's irons, which he didn't have time to practice.

That said, I did a little hunting around on the Adams Idea CMB Forged irons. TST did not review the 2013 Golf D. Hot List iron, so I borrowed this Adams CMB Review from another site.

The multi-player review team gave the CMB high marks as very playable Player's iron. Also, the head has tungsten weight ports - spoiler - on the toe to prevent twisting on impact. Ping S-series irons had a similar feature.

Spoiler

Also, the CMB shot pattern was quite compact in distance for the better player in the group. @bones75, if you avoid working the ball, other than to create your dominant shot shape, you might be OK if you avoid the fancy shots.

Next, tell us what shaft you have on the CMBs. Stock shafts were the steel KBS Tour C-Taper, and the graphite Matrix Ozik Program 8.1. It you have a C-Taper - even in R-flex - this is a rather harsh shaft for a lot of golfers. If you're fighting the shaft a bit, this may be part of your problem. Your 145-yd. 7-iron distance is decent, but you don't fall into the long hitter category.

Tell us what shaft you have, and we can make better suggestions.

[bones75]

@WUTiger  I have the C-tapers.  I really don't know much about golf technology, like even what different shafts means.  When hit well, I like the shot shape/spin on the CMBs, and can get all my irons to stop on the green.  I can also draw/fade these irons pretty easily (which is one of the main factors of when I bought them)...although it starts to get iffy at my longer irons (4&5).  Also, note my index of 8-14.  I'm not hitting tons of greens anyways, averaging only 6-7 per round.  Again, if someone were describing me as a golfer, they'd say "He's the shorter, but more accurate golfer.".

Edited September 26, 2016 by bones75

[newtogolf]

I had read really good things about them but Adams didn't release them for lefties so I couldn't try them.  For a while I played the Adams CB3's which many claimed were similar to the CMB's and I liked them a lot.   Adams made some nice forged mid-handicap and players irons before TM acquired them.    

[WUTiger]

2 hours ago, bones75 said:

@WUTiger  I have the C-tapers. ...    I'm not hitting tons of greens anyways, averaging only 6-7 per round.  Again, if someone were describing me as a golfer, they'd say "He's the shorter, but more accurate golfer.".

R-flex C-Taper = 110 grams, low trajectory and low spin shaft / FCM = 5.2, slightly firm for R-flex.

Some more questions...

• How many fairways do you hit per round?
• For the greens you miss, what is the pattern on the misses, or less-than-square shots? Are you missing greens from fairway, or usually when you have to  scramble?
• For short to medium Par 3 holes (reachable with iron shots), how many GIR? Do you often get up-and-down on non-GIR Par 3s? 

[bones75]

@newtogolf It's too bad they didn't make CMB's for lefties.  Yea, I really loved them when I first got them, I just can't tell if I still do.

@WUTiger

- I hit a lot of fairways.  Average around 12.  It's not unusual I'll hit 14.

- I miss only slightly more often when scrambling. meaning I think I've got some strokes gained from scrambling.

- When I miss greens it's usually I don't miss by much(within 10 yards), and don't have a usual type of miss... maybe 3-4 times a round for approaches I will do an epic push, overdraw, light hook or chunkymonkey (irons), or an unintentional fade or small slice (woods).  I don't pick up penalties strokes very often (1 every 4 rounds maybe?).  Short game is also one of of my strengths.

- Also just read the non-TST review you referred to.  Pretty strong review, makes me think I got me some good clubs.  :)   I'm just not sure I'm good enough for them.

[WUTiger]

Possibly your preferred shot shape is the draw? Just guessing from your last post.

What you might do is get some face impact decals for irons and go to the range. After a brief warm-up, hit 10 shots each with 5i, 7i, and 9i. If the impact points are all over the face (which I doubt given your handicap), you might have a swing wobble.

If the points cluster in one area, and its away from center face, you might need a tweak to your irons, such as shaft length or lie angle. Also, launch monitor session could give you specific data to combine with impact decal patterns. 

If you have clean hit problems mainly with the 4i and 5i, you might consider softstepping these shafts. This would bring the FCM down to 4.9 for the two clubs (just a touch under 5.0 which is theoretically "average" R-flex), and would help with launch.

Any other ideas from low-HDCPers? @Club Rat? @TourSpoon? @Spitfisher?

[GolfLug]

I have played them for last 2 years. C-taper S flex. 4-GW.

They are definitely not a GI iron but are very high quality 'player's' iron comparable to any other top notch MB or players CBs. They work great for me.

But I will say this, if you are in the market today for new irons, I would look for slight more forgiveness and hotter face. Doesn't have to be the 'giant' CBs you are talking about. Think Titliest AP2s, Callaway APEX pros or even last years' XR pros, TM RSis, etc., type of irons if you can't stand bulky heads and huge GI/SGI offsets. They are still fairly slim but SO much easier to game. Especially anything over 6 iron. For one thing, the shafts are lighter (on some models) and even though initially big shaft weight change will throw you off you will adjust after a few rounds and will have an easier time pushing the ball around the park.

BTW, I wouldn't put too much stock in statements that you need small headed irons to fade/draw ball.