Questions for the Wilson Dynapower experts

[HybridTurkey]

I would like to know whether or not i should play them or sell them to buy a new set. And how much i could sell them for.

http://imgur.com/a/xymZk The clubs 3-9 incase the post didnt show them.

Edited May 9, 2016 by HybridTurkey

[SavvySwede]

18 minutes ago, HybridTurkey said:

I would like to know whether or not i should play them or sell them to buy a new set. And how much i could sell them for.

http://imgur.com/a/xymZk The clubs 3-9 incase the post didnt show them.

Not really worth playing because the grips look shot and re-gripping them would cost more than the set itself. Not really worth selling either, I'd say you overpaid at $19. You could use them as a display piece if you have yourself a man cave but that's about it.

[HybridTurkey]

Just now, SavvySwede said:

Not really worth playing because the grips look shot and re-gripping them would cost more than the set itself. Not really worth selling either I'd say you overpaid at $19, you could use them as a display piece if you have yourself a man cave but that's about it.

Thanks bud

[Buckeyebowman]

Googled this because I really don't know much about it. But, it didn't seem to me that I saw much Wilson Staff equipment being sold in the "cheapo" outfits back then. Hit on a thread from Wishon Golf Technologies, which is authored by Tom Wishon, a club designer and engineer who knows his stuff. I respect his opinion immensely. He said the Dynapower was designed for better players, but because of some design quirks, were not easily reshafted. Regripping, however, should not be a problem.

I'd suggest regripping a mid iron, maybe a 5 or 6, whichever is your preference, and see if you can hit it. Long story short, you're not going to get very far, financially, toward a new set of clubs by trying to sell old sets of clubs! Even though many people have lost sight of how good those clubs were!

[HybridTurkey]

1 minute ago, Buckeyebowman said:

Googled this because I really don't know much about it. But, it didn't seem to me that I saw much Wilson Staff equipment being sold in the "cheapo" outfits back then. Hit on a thread from Wishon Golf Technologies, which is authored by Tom Wishon, a club designer and engineer who knows his stuff. I respect his opinion immensely. He said the Dynapower was designed for better players, but because of some design quirks, were not easily reshafted. Regripping, however, should not be a problem.

I'd suggest regripping a mid iron, maybe a 5 or 6, whichever is your preference, and see if you can hit it. Long story short, you're not going to get very far, financially, toward a new set of clubs by trying to sell old sets of clubs! Even though many people have lost sight of how good those clubs were!

Thanks man. This answer helps haha. Ill buy a cheapo reshaft set and give it a go

[FrivolouslyWasted]

I have recently developed a bit of an obsession with the old-school Wilson Staff blades. For years I’ve been playing a mix and match set of irons that’s part Wilson bulletbacks, and part Titleist tour model blades. I finally decided I wanted a complete iron set, and snagged a set of what I believe to be ‘66 Dynapowers. And then I bought a set of ‘73s with the screw-in weights. I couldn’t resist.

 

Anyway, there’s something odd about the ‘73s and I’m hoping someone here can explain it. The bulk of the set is shorter than the older set. The short irons are the same length in both sets. The ‘73 6-iron is a tad shorter than the ‘66, and the 3-5 are a full club shorter. In other words, the ‘73 4-iron has the same overall length as my ‘66 5-iron. But from everything I’ve read, irons have tended to get longer through the years, so it seems odd that my newer set is shorter than the older one.

 

Both sets seem to have their original Ultralite shafts. The screw-ins have an extra sticker on the shafts with some sort of alpha-numeric serial number that matches across the set. The ‘66s don’t have this. I wonder if the screw-ins could possibly be a custom job?

 

I’ll try to update with some pics soon

As an unrelated aside, the leading edge on the screw-ins is the sharpest I’ve ever seen on a golf club. Wilson really took the blade thing seriously. I could almost shave my face with these clubs

[FrivolouslyWasted]

Got some pics. First is one of the clubs I think is from ‘66. They don’t have the two diagonal hash marks though, so I’m not entirely certain of the model. If someone can confirm or identify.

 

Then a couple showing that extra sticker I mentioned on the screw-ins. Number appears to be O5J 22872

[billchao]

I don't know much about Wilson clubs, but any possibility that the long iron shafts on your newer set were simply trimmed?

[FrivolouslyWasted]

7 minutes ago, billchao said:

I don't know much about Wilson clubs, but any possibility that the long iron shafts on your newer set were simply trimmed?

That’s certainly possible, i think. But wouldn’t most people want to shorten their whole set by a uniform amount? Aside from my crude cut-offs I played as a child, altering club lengths isn’t something I know much about

[billchao]

20 minutes ago, FrivolouslyWasted said:

That’s certainly possible, i think. But wouldn’t most people want to shorten their whole set by a uniform amount?

Not necessarily. Maybe someone wanted shorter long irons for better control. 

Another explanation could be hard stepping shafts that were already trimmed to playing length. Then your 3i will be the same length as the old 4i, 4i and 5i, etc., because you'd be taking the shaft out of the 4i and installing it into the 3i and so on.

I'm really just spitballing here. Maybe they're factory spec. I have no idea.

[FrivolouslyWasted]

I had never heard of hard stepping. Just looked it up. Interesting. Perhaps that’s the explanation 

[Mhp2020]

On this topic with Wilson dynapower, I have a set of fluid feel 2-P with original grips. Clubs look great, a couple of the shafts rattle now and I was looking to reshaft. 
I have a set of .355 taper irons but they fit through the immediate hole but not quite all the way. 
 

does anyone have any knowledge on if it is possible to reshaft the 1965 “fluid feel back” version? 

[Mhp2020]

Did you have any luck with the reshafting?  
I am having difficulty with a set of .355 I have but it appears the head tapers in to approx .317 at tip

 

any local knowledge out there?

[Vinsk]

1 hour ago, Mhp2020 said:

Did you have any luck with the reshafting?  
I am having difficulty with a set of .355 I have but it appears the head tapers in to approx .317 at tip

 

any local knowledge out there?

@Adam C may know...

[boogielicious]

14 hours ago, Mhp2020 said:

Did you have any luck with the reshafting?  
I am having difficulty with a set of .355 I have but it appears the head tapers in to approx .317 at tip

 

any local knowledge out there?

Contact Golfworks. They have adapters that may work.

Assembly Supplies | The GolfWorks

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Assembly Supplies at The GolfWorks

 

[Adam C]

17 hours ago, Mhp2020 said:

Did you have any luck with the reshafting?  
I am having difficulty with a set of .355 I have but it appears the head tapers in to approx .317 at tip

 

any local knowledge out there?

You would have to bore out those hosels to get back to a .355 if they are in fact smaller than that. Just make sure it's not just a case of leftover debris in there. Adapters won't help. 

[trombettista_vecchio]

The ones from the early to mid fifties have a "DynaPowered" rather than "DynaPower" stamping on the back.

I still have the ones that my uncle handed down to me when I was a kid.  Also the MacGregor Tommy Armour woods and Spalding Cash In putter that came with them..

There's a long row of golf bags in my finished basement that almost make up a history lesson of my life.

The set handed down to me.

The set that was a graduation gift.

The set that was a retirement gift.

And the sets that I bought myself; considering my age, there's only a few of them.