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Posted
Since im still working on getting a halfway decent swing i spend more time on the range and less on the course. One issue I run into is my initial takeaway when i get into some thick rough. Obviously on the range or fairway i have no restrictions and the takeaway can be nice and smooth. Once i get into the rough I get uncomfortable with my takeaway with longer irons due to the thick grass restricting the club head. I have tried to lift the club head up quicker but it takes me out of plane. Any advice on this situation? bring it back faster causing more force out of the grass?

In my Golf bag
Big Bertha Irons
60* wedge
Hi-Bore Hybrid 3
Burner 3wood XLS Hi-Bore 10.5 Driver Putter On the feet Burner Balls


Posted
Since im still working on getting a halfway decent swing i spend more time on the range and less on the course. One issue I run into is my initial takeaway when i get into some thick rough. Obviously on the range or fairway i have no restrictions and the takeaway can be nice and smooth. Once i get into the rough I get uncomfortable with my takeaway with longer irons due to the thick grass restricting the club head. I have tried to lift the club head up quicker but it takes me out of plane. Any advice on this situation? bring it back faster causing more force out of the grass?

this problem is one we all struggle with... In thick rough you must get the club up quicker than normal and get steeper on the ball at impact.

The other tip I could give you might not help that much because I am sure you already know it... Don't hit it in the deep rough...

Posted
Long irons in deeper rough can be tough to manage. Find yourself a nice rescue or 5 wood for those situations.

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Big Bertha 2007 460 11°
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Posted
Long irons in deep rough is a risky shot for even elite players, let alone ametuers. normdamarine's advice is your only option really. You gotta get the club head out of that stuff. Depending on the situation, if im left in a deep rough lie most of the time its a punch out back to the fairway.
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Posted
I'll use either my 4 hybrid or my 5 hybrid in situations like this where the ball is in the rough, esp. in tall grass. These hybrids really help cut through the grass on impact :)

Posted
Since im still working on getting a halfway decent swing i spend more time on the range and less on the course. One issue I run into is my initial takeaway when i get into some thick rough. Obviously on the range or fairway i have no restrictions and the takeaway can be nice and smooth. Once i get into the rough I get uncomfortable with my takeaway with longer irons due to the thick grass restricting the club head. I have tried to lift the club head up quicker but it takes me out of plane. Any advice on this situation? bring it back faster causing more force out of the grass?

Another suggestion, don't ground your club behind the ball. Both for the problem you are having, as well as the possibility of the ball moving when you do, it's a good idea to learn how to hit the ball with the club held as much as 4-6 inches behind the ball on your normal takeaway arc. I do this in deep rough and it usually works just fine.

As mentioned above though, hitting long irons from anything more than light rough is a chancy thing. A lofted fairway wood (5W or 7W) or a 22° to 25° hybrid is a better choice. And sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and layup with a short iron or wedge to a safe spot in the fairway.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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Posted
Just like Fourputt said, what you can try and do is suspend the club where it would normally be behind your ball, but just above the grass. You'll still have the same swing, but no grass in your way :)

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha Diablo 9º
2 Hybrid: Callaway Big Bertha Heavenwood
Irons: Nike Slingshot OSS 6-3 iron
          Taylormade Tour Preferred PW-7 iron
Wedges: Cleveland CG14 50º, 54º
              Taylormade RAC 58º
Putter: Ping Darby 32" shaft


 


Posted
Long irons in deep rough is a risky shot for even elite players, let alone ametuers. normdamarine's advice is your only option really. You gotta get the club head out of that stuff. Depending on the situation, if im left in a deep rough lie most of the time its a punch out back to the fairway.

I'm with you on this one - in thick rough, anything more than a 5-iron is more risk than reward.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted

I fully agree with the above advice....steeper backswing and proper club selection (hybrids are nice here if you can use something with limited loft....most times I have to use a mid-iron and go after it).

About the only thing that I can add to the prior advice by others is to step off a couple of yards and take a controlled practice swing or two in the same lie. Get the feel of what is to come.....prepare for the grabbing of the grass....ingrain the steeper swing angle.

If nothing else the few practice swings will cut down the rough in those spots....golfers playing after you will appreciate it!!!! Mow that rough down for them.

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Burner Superfast 3 & 5 woods (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-4.8)
G15 Hybrid 23* (AWT shaft)
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Posted
thanks guys, i wasn't aware it was such a bad idea to try a long iron from the thick rough, it makes perfect sense though. I don't own a 5 wood or a rescue, i guess i now know m x-mas gift idea lol, for now ill work with my 3 hybrid and practice starting my takeaway inches behind the ball.

In my Golf bag
Big Bertha Irons
60* wedge
Hi-Bore Hybrid 3
Burner 3wood XLS Hi-Bore 10.5 Driver Putter On the feet Burner Balls


Posted
Since im still working on getting a halfway decent swing i spend more time on the range and less on the course. One issue I run into is my initial takeaway when i get into some thick rough. Obviously on the range or fairway i have no restrictions and the takeaway can be nice and smooth. Once i get into the rough I get uncomfortable with my takeaway with longer irons due to the thick grass restricting the club head. I have tried to lift the club head up quicker but it takes me out of plane. Any advice on this situation? bring it back faster causing more force out of the grass?

IMO, going at a ball that is down in thick rought with less than a 8i isn't going to work to well. For this type of lie I pull out a 8,9 or pw depending on how deep down it is and where I want the ball to end up. I don't look for more than 125 yds out at best. I will address the ball like a sand shot with the leading edge of the club at rough height and focus on the back of the ball b/c thats where I want to hit the ball, on the back, and plays the ball back in the stance. This will give you a steeper angle of attack with a better chance of getting the club head on the ball. Then swing hard and keep the wrists firm.

I can't say enough about practice. And the way to practice this is to see what happens when you play the ball back in your stance. Start on good lies. This will give you an idea of how far back to play the ball in your stance. Your back swing should always be in tempo; for me that is slow.

Posted
The "Maltby Playability Factor" book by Ralph Maltby has an interesting diagram on how the ball sits up in the rough (p. 258).

If your ball is in fertilized (plush) rough, the grass is denser but the ball sits up a bit more. If you are in unfertilized rough (stringy), the grass offers less resistance but the ball settles to the bottom.

One benefit of going with a 7-iron or higher and just getting it out: You use the loft to pop the ball up and out. Going with longer irons means you hit the ball through the grass more before it goes up. This requires a much more flawless swing performance to pull off successfully.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Note: This thread is 5883 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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