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Bogey Golfers and "Working the Ball"


juanrjackson
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I consider myself a bogey golfer. My goal is pretty much to hit the ball straight & keep it in play on every shot. Rarely if ever do I try to hit a fade or draw.

I read a lot of posts from bogey golfers that say they like irons with more feel, more feedback, & also because those irons allow you to work the ball more. I guess my question for bogey golfers is how many times during a avg round to you try to work the ball?


In my clicgear.gif 2.0 Push Cart and callaway.gifgolf bag are - 

 

 Z-Star driver 10.5  Mashie 3 and 7 metals  Mashie 4 hyrbird  Z-Star 4-PW Irons  cleveland.gifCG Black 48, 52, 56 degree wedges  GoLo putter  upro mx+ gps

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Never. I probably would if I could work the ball but I can't hit anything but a fade.

Career Bests:

9 Holes--37 @ The Fairways at Arrowhead-Front(+2)

18 Holes--80 @ Carroll Meadows Golf Course(+9)

 

Home Course:

1) The Fairways at Arrowhead

2) Mayfair Country Club

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There are quite a few holes on my local course where you really do need to work the ball, a draw on the 4th and a fade into the green on the 6th, a draw on the 9th etc and there are at least two or three on the back nine, sometimes I have days where I imagine the shot etc and pull it off to perfection and I have had one of my best rounds (79,80) other days I set up for the draw and hit it dead straight missing the green out to the right, it definately helps if you can work the ball, it all come with confidence I suppose.

Driver: Taylormade R9
3 Wood: Cobra S 9-1
5 Wood: Cobra S 9-1
7 Wood: Cobra S 9-1

Irons: Taylormade r7 Custom Fit (SW-4)

Putter: Taylormade Rossa Monza Spyder

Balls: Titleist Pro V1x

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Hmmm, not sure about the average number or anything, but I'd say I semi-regularly, just when the situation really calls for it and can make a considerable difference. To me though, working the ball consists of more than just a draw or a cut. I also consider going high or low working the ball as well. Definitely helps when the wind comes into play.

Say for example I'm hitting my approach shot, and the green is guarded by a bunker on the front right. In that case, I like to start the ball left or straight and fade it right so that if I do come up short, I'm still in the grass vs. the sand. If I get my usual roll, there's a good chance that even if it does land short, it will at least roll onto the green vs. being plugged in the bunker. Then again, there have been rounds where I never even thought about working it. It just kinda depends on whether I'm moving it well and accurate that day or not. I cant lie and say that it hasn't gotten me in trouble before though Been getting smarter about when and where to do it though...

 
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This Week's Bag Drop - Miura Passing Point 9003 Forged Irons and Adams Idea Pro a12 Irons and Hybrids  - Sweet new forged cavity backs from Miura (do they make any irons that arent simply beautiful?) and irons/hybrids from Adams created with...

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hitting a draw and fade isnt that diffcult. i find it alot easier to hit a fade with my irons than to try and hit it straight.

i almost always play every shot with my stance and clubface open.

i have a natural draw (and a nasty snap-hook) so if i want it to draw i just swing my normal swing except a little flatter

RBZ stage 2 driver & 3 wood

Original AP1 4-GW

Vokey 54.10 & 58.04

Scotty Newport 2

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I'd say you work the ball high and low, way more than left/right....

There are times when fades and draws are necessary, mostly to get me out of trouble, but high and low.... all the time.

I play a Pro V1, sometimes you need it to release, sometimes you need it to stop, thats where high and low workability come into play. Its especially important on approach shots. Most people, myself included, used to think it was all about shaping tee shots, but most guys are working approach shots.

Man I hope that made sense.

Too much beer

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

Top Flite Gamer

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The course I play all the time, there are 2 holes where I need to draw an iron around the bend. It doesn't always happen like I plan it out, but it's the shot that has to happen, and when I do hit that nice draw around the trees with my 6 iron, and land it on the green, there's no better feeling. When I was playing with SGI's and hybrid irons, that wasn't even an option, it was straight or nothing. There are also quite a few times I find myself in a little trouble, and it's nice to have the ability to draw or fade the ball with the clubs you have, even if you're not going to make it happen perfectly every time, at least you have the option to try.
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Often on tee shots. I'll see a shot shape that fits best. Either it fights the wind direction or it follows the contour of the hole. I'll not try anything too dramatic. It's fun to me. I certainly don't always hit the intended shot but the fun is in the struggle.

Also, when I have to hit a recovery shot. Let's say an errant tee shot missed well left. Providing the lie is ok, then I may try another hook back to the green. Hook it out beyond the offending trouble and back to the fairway.

I'm much more consistent in going on
intentional left-to-right shots than vice versa.

The ball you game has everything to do with working it. It pays to be slapping the right pill.

In a normal round, I may try to work it on 8-10 shots.
909D Comp 9.5* (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-6)
Burner Superfast 3 & 5 woods (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-4.8)
G15 Hybrid 23* (AWT shaft)
G5 5 iron-PW-46*, UW-50*, SW-54 & LW-58 (AWT shaft)
Studio Select Newport 2 Mid SlantGrips: PING cords & Golf Pride New Decade Multi-Coumpound Bag: C-130...
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The ball you game has everything to do with working it. It pays to be slapping the right pill.

I assume a three piece ball is easier to work. Do you the the ball you game is just as important as your irons in working your shot?

I'd say you work the ball high and low, way more than left/right....

Working the ball high/low is just a matter of ball position correct? Do you think irons play a big role in your ability to do that?


In my clicgear.gif 2.0 Push Cart and callaway.gifgolf bag are - 

 

 Z-Star driver 10.5  Mashie 3 and 7 metals  Mashie 4 hyrbird  Z-Star 4-PW Irons  cleveland.gifCG Black 48, 52, 56 degree wedges  GoLo putter  upro mx+ gps

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Super GI irons are easier to hit high, but they are harder to hit low and vice versa for "players" irons. And, yes ball position is the main contributing factor to moving the ball up and down.
In the blue and tan grom Bag:

Driver r7 460 10.5*
Fairway Woods '07 Burner 15* and 18*
Irons 4-PW r7 XDWedges 47*, 52*, 58* CG14,Putter TiffanyBall One Tour D
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I consider myself a bogey golfer. My goal is pretty much to hit the ball straight & keep it in play on every shot. Rarely if ever do I try to hit a fade or draw.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with hitting the ball straight.

Driver 905S, V2 stiff shaft
3-Wood 906F2 13 degree, V2 stiff
Hybrid 585H 21 degree, Aldila VS Proto
Irons (4-PW) MP-57, Rifle 5.5
SW & LW spin milledPutter TracyBall Pro V-1

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Working the ball high/low is just a matter of ball position correct? Do you think irons play a big role in your ability to do that?

I really dont mess with ball position at all. Instead, I do it with my finish, and how steep I come in to impact. To answer your second question, yeah, your irons can play a big part in your ability to do that, but more specifically, the shaft has a very significant impact.

See if you can find the "Teeing it up with Tiger" videos. He goes into controlling distance and trajectory with his finish. Low finish = low flight. High finish = high ballflight. He explains it pretty well.
Super GI irons are easier to hit high, but they are harder to hit low and vice versa for "players" irons. And, yes ball position is the main contributing factor to moving the ball up and down.

While that is one way to do it, I dont agree that it's the correct way or the only way. By changing ball position, you significantly increase the likelihood of slicing or hooking hard because the clubface either doesn't have time to close, or it closes before impact, of course depending on if you're playing it too far forward or back.

 
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This Week's Bag Drop - Miura Passing Point 9003 Forged Irons and Adams Idea Pro a12 Irons and Hybrids  - Sweet new forged cavity backs from Miura (do they make any irons that arent simply beautiful?) and irons/hybrids from Adams created with...

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I'm definitely a bogey golfer and I never try to work the ball. While I'm sure the ability to do this would save me strokes, I'm pretty sure chipping around the green and lag putts are a better use of my practice time than learning how to consistently work the ball at this point. Maybe once or twice a round I say to myself moving the ball horizontally in the air would save me a stroke, whereas I'm kicking myself all the time for poor chipping/putting.
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Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I only try to "work" the ball when I am forced into a situation where I need to. Otherwise, I'm just trying to go straight - the risk-reward for me when trying to hit a specific shot doesn't justify the attempt.

I can hit a fade on a pretty consistant, a draw about 25% of the time....and I am not at all good at controlling trajectory/height.

I guess one way of look at it....if you spend your time mastering the art of hitting a straight, controlled shot...you should be mitigating your need to hit a specific draw/fade shot.

What I Play:

Driver: R9 460
4 Wood: G15

Hy: Callaway FT 3Hy

Irons: AP1 4-PW

Wedges: Vokey 52* & 60*, Mizuno MP-T 10 58*

Putter: Newport Studio Select 2.7

Ball: Nike One Vapor

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My standard shot is straight or a slight draw. Never try to hit anything else, just never seems worth it. I'm more worried about making a good swing with good contact. I don't usually mess with trajectory unless it's windy. Then, I just club down and swing easier. I gotta admit that I chuckle when bogey+ playing partners try to work the ball. They rarely pull it off, and it's almost always tragic (way overcooked or completely duffed). The game's hard enough as is. ;)
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The honest answer is none of them. Its just internet bragging. If they had enough control to work the ball, they wouldnt be bogey golfers.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S

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I work the ball when the time calls for it, and other than that maybe 25% of the time when I feel I really want to avoid part of the course. Of course since I am a "bogey" golfer sometimes it doesnt work out and instead of hitting a small fade ill hit a nice hook! :) Oh well, I do try though, if I do hit it right at least I am taking out half the field.

In my 's bag:
Driver: HiBore XLS 10.5, Fujikara Red R Flex shaft, and Winn PCI grip
3w, 5w: HiBore XLS Fujikara Gold R Flexshaft, and Winn PCI grips
Irons: Viper HT heads, True Temper XL Lite shafts, and Winn PCI grips
Putter: XG #9 35"Ball: TP II

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