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Posted
i have been having trouble with this. With my 60 degree it seems like i can never make good contact when its a 1/4 swing or less. My next club would my gap and that seems like its not lofted enough.

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Posted
For chips on an uphill lie or flat and firm, I use my 56. On an downhill lie or flat and soft, I use my 60.

Posted
It depends on what the pin placement is and how much roll out I need. Obviously, the the pin is on the opposite side of the green, I'll go PW. If it's near me or in the middle, most likely 56°.

 
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Posted
i have been having trouble with this. With my 60 degree it seems like i can never make good contact when its a 1/4 swing or less. My next club would my gap and that seems like its not lofted enough.

I have started laying my 60* open more and taking a 1/2 swing. I have a hard time with the 1/4 swing as well from a consistency standpoint. The nice thing about laying the 60 open farther is if I hit too hard it just flies a little higher but only adds a couple yards. But for the most part it is proving consistent in practice. Just a thought.


Posted
I have this old Titleist 762 DCI PW that I like for chip and run. For some reason I like it more than the RAC MB Chrome PW that was in with my hand-me-down set, but which seems to have a totally different feel than my other RACs.

The Cleveland 56 or the 60 if it's wet or fluffy, or if more vertical clearance is required.

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Posted
10 yards,...no trouble, my putter.
20 yards....a crisp 56 with some spin.

Kyle Paulhus

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Posted
For chips on an uphill lie or flat and firm, I use my 56. On an downhill lie or flat and soft, I use my 60.

+1.

same is true for all shots under 100 yards

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Posted
I think using a 60 degree wedge for short pitches and chips is mostly about a slow backswing and unhurried downswing. This keeps my hands out of the shot and helps eliminate the right hand over doing its job of staying mostly still cocked back. Its the turn around point that causes problems. You don't jerk the putter back and whip it forward, so try the 60 with a short deliberate backswing. Your body will know not to decelerate if you are take it back slowly and just let it start forward on its own gravity. You can make perfect little ground contact with this method, hitting the ball first then using the bounce afterwards. This might not work for everyone, but it is my key. The way to learn this is to start out with little two, three yard pitches, then 5 yards, then 10, etc. Watch the pros... they hit these little shots very deliberately.

RC

 


Posted
I don't like switching clubs for these shots. I have a couple different shots I can play with my sand wedge, and I'll choose between those depending on where my ball's sitting and where the pin is

I find I do better if I always use the same club. I'm not a pro and I don't have time to practice around the green with 6 different clubs. I practice my short shots a lot with just my sand wedge, so I always feel pretty confident I know what the shot is going to do and that I have a good chance of hitting it right.

Matt

Mid-Weight Heavy Putter
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Posted
i have been having trouble with this. With my 60 degree it seems like i can never make good contact when its a 1/4 swing or less. My next club would my gap and that seems like its not lofted enough.

To me it depends on a couple of factors

1) Lie - whether you're on the short stuff / up against the fringe / in slightly thicker stuff 2) How much green you have to work with - if it's 20y to the pin, but 18y of that is green I would probably go with an 8 or 9 iron, hop it on the green and let it roll out. Conversely, if it's 20y to the pin, but the pin is only 2y on, then you're looking at SW or LW to fly it most of the way.
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Posted
Could be an 8-iron, or one of my wedges. If I want a chip and run, it's the 8i or the PW. If I want a quick stop, it's the 50* or 56*.

(Last year, I had trouble with the 50* checking up too quickly for chip and run. Higher-loft wedges seem to have more bite than with my old bag mix.)

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Posted
Depends if its on the fringe, putter
If i have alot of fringe thats in bad condition i will take out the 9 or 8 iron and do a low runner
in the rough, depends. But i try to take as least loft as possible to get the ball on the green and rolling.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
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Posted
ºa putting stroke with a PW seems to work for me if not 52º works just aswell from harder positions or if im stuck i use 60º

Posted
this is a debate that one of my friends and i have been having. and i dont really disagree. i have always used my 60 degree to chip. i can bump and run it, hit it high and do anything i want with it that i could do with a 56 or a PW even. the only problem is that it only has 7 degrees of bounce. so that means im depending on making good contact or i will not hit it very well.

my friend scores a bit better than i do and he golfs with some scratch golfers and talks with a pro a bit, and his big thing is to use a 56 instead. if you look at my adams tom watson series wedges, my 56 degree sand wedge has 13 degrees of loft. that makes it much more forgiving.

so i have been using the sandwedge for most of my 110 yard and in shots until i get close to the green and then i use my 60.
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Posted
depending on if you are just off the green with lots of green to work with you could us a 8 iron or if the pin is just on the green and you need to carry the rough you may need a 56 or 60 degree wedge. The rule of thumb is 20/80 rule, carrying 20% and roll 80% is the higher percentage shot.

If you notice that you have more margin for error higher success rate if you use a lower lofted club where as if you use a lofted club like a 60 degree wedge if you do not hit it close to perfect you will not get the result on distance you want. One trick to aid with hitting the lofted wedges is to play the ball back in your stance and use a forward press which will take loft off the club and make it roll farther but you will be assured you make good contact.

I also played with opening and closing the club face on chip shots and you could get the ball to check and roll right with an open club face or run out moving right to left with a closed club face. fun to try different things and seeing them work on the course to lower your scores.

Remember to keep track of your up and downs and your putter during the round to monitor your improvement, but practice is the key to results.

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Posted
I'm in the 'same club for everything' camp. Too many people I know (very good golfers, all) have way too much trouble with the 60 degree wedge - it's kind of a running joke for us.

10-20 yards is way too easy to try and finesse the ball to the hole, which can lead to deceleration and ultimately, a flubbed chip. I use a 56 degree bump and run. Feet together, open stance, Most of my weight on my left (right handed), ball back in stance, and choked down on club about 4-5 inches. 1 foot backswing with emphasis on making a descending blow on the ball (just like a normal iron strike) to ensure good contact.

Posted
I usually use my 56° wedge (the Tom Watson 56/13 that was mentioned earlier in this thread). It doesn't generate a whole lot of spin, at least not in my hands, and especially if I deloft it, the ball definitely rolls out. It works well for chips up to about 20 or 25 yards. After that, I find it hard to get a consistent distance without going to more of a pitch than a chip. I definitely prefer this to bump and run 8I chips. Despite all the reasons to love those, I never found I could get the consistency out of them to make it worthwhile. It may be that the courses I play don't have well-enough tended grass, so the extra loft is necessary just to guarantee that I don't get hung up.

I also prefer to chip from the fringe, unless it's either a very smooth fringe or I'm on the inside half of it. It's a lot easier for me to control distance that way than to try to guess how to translate distance on the fringe into distance on the green and adjust. Again, maybe this says something about the quality of the fringe care, but I'm happy with my short chips.

I've recently added a 52° and 60° wedge to my set. I suspect that the 52°•is going to take over for chips over 15 yards since it launches much better than my 56°. I'm not yet sure what the role of the 60°•will be, but I think I may use it for shorter business and use the 56°•for sand pretty much exclusively.

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"


Posted
It depends on what the pin placement is and how much roll out I need. Obviously, the the pin is on the opposite side of the green, I'll go PW. If it's near me or in the middle, most likely 56°.

If the pin is on the opposite side of the green - 10 to 20 yards away - then I've got a crapload of green to work with. I'd probably putt with a 6-iron. Otherwise the LW or 56 would probably get the call depending on what's between me and the green.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


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