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Posted

Creating a golf chip and putt area in my backyard

Hi there.  First time posting. Long time lurker. Love this site. 

I have about 3/4 of an acre I want to convert into a golf short game area. It currently has some undulations (which is close to what I want for my golf area) and is covered with barnyard grass, fescue grass and broadleaf weeds. The ground also feels like it has a lot of bumps when I walk on it. I live in Michigan and I talked with a local golf course super and he recommended that I just go with perennial rye grass for everything (green, fringe, and rough).

My question is, what is the best way for me to convert what I have to what I want? My priorities are cost and time. I want a good value and I don't want it to be a huge project. I have a full size John Deere 2030 tractor with a brush hog and a scraping blade. I plan on getting a utv. I am willing to rent or buy additional attachments for both for this project. I also have a zero turn mower. I think I will get a push mower for the greens(the special low cut green mower). I am hoping I can use the same push mower for the fringe (if it can cut that high). And then use my zero turn for the rough.

My thinking is, I don't want to Roundup everything. The ground will then take forever for it to be ready to accept the rye grass seeds(it will have to wait for the Roundup to fade). Could take 3 to 6 months and then I have to deal with bare dirt for a long time. I was thinking I would aerate what I have now, then roll the grass to even out the bumps. Then use the special green mower to cut the existing grass super low. Hopefully the existing grass dies, then I just seed with my ryegrass. Will that work? Let me know what you guys think is the best way to go about this. Much appreciated in advance!

Best,

Mike from Michigan


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Posted
On 5/11/2016 at 0:47 AM, lonemedic said:
Creating a golf chip and putt area in my backyard
Hi there.  First time posting. Long time lurker. Love this site. 
I have about 3/4 of an acre I want to convert into a golf short game area. It currently has some undulations (which is close to what I want for my golf area) and is covered with barnyard grass, fescue grass and broadleaf weeds. The ground also feels like it has a lot of bumps when I walk on it. I live in Michigan and I talked with a local golf course super and he recommended that I just go with perennial rye grass for everything (green, fringe, and rough).
My question is, what is the best way for me to convert what I have to what I want? My priorities are cost and time. I want a good value and I don't want it to be a huge project. I have a full size John Deere 2030 tractor with a brush hog and a scraping blade. I plan on getting a utv. I am willing to rent or buy additional attachments for both for this project. I also have a zero turn mower. I think I will get a push mower for the greens(the special low cut green mower). I am hoping I can use the same push mower for the fringe (if it can cut that high). And then use my zero turn for the rough.
My thinking is, I don't want to Roundup everything. The ground will then take forever for it to be ready to accept the rye grass seeds(it will have to wait for the Roundup to fade). Could take 3 to 6 months and then I have to deal with bare dirt for a long time. I was thinking I would aerate what I have now, then roll the grass to even out the bumps. Then use the special green mower to cut the existing grass super low. Hopefully the existing grass dies, then I just seed with my ryegrass. Will that work? Let me know what you guys think is the best way to go about this. Much appreciated in advance!
Best,
 Mike from Michigan

Welcome to the Sand Trap. I'm not sure if many of the Sand Trap members have done this. I would recommend what the course folks said in terms of grass. The other thing I would add is a bunker. Unless you wanted to build a green, you maybe better off making a smaller one with regular grass and just cut it short. 

For the rest of the area, I would start with cutting it short and just use it as is for simulating rough. The type of grass/weeds you describe would be a good simulation of different types of rough. Keep it a bit long, 3 to 4" too.

Scott

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Posted
41 minutes ago, boogielicious said:

For the rest of the area, I would start with cutting it short and just use it as is for simulating rough. The type of grass/weeds you describe would be a good simulation of different types of rough. Keep it a bit long, 3 to 4" too.

I would agree about not worrying too much about the quality of the grass in general - for myself having a perfect lie every time wouldn't be as useful as getting some random variations.  That at least is what I get mostly out on the course!  And a sand pit is a great idea plus maybe adding some 2-5' mounds so you can practice upslope/downslope etc - that might be as simple as dumping a ton of soil in a pile and then compacting it down and covering with seed.

Having a 'green' would be useful I think to practice watching the ball run out.  I chip in my backyard which is fine until the ball hits the grass but then it tends to stop rolling more quickly than it would on a green.  Perfectly manicured grass is an option but I've often thought that an artificial surface or even compacted sand / earth might work - probably depends on your climate and might not work in Michigan.  If you want to practice putting then this obviously might not be ideal but for me I would just be interested in chipping because I don't think I could maintain a green to a high enough standard to make putting close enough to the real thing.

Adam

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Posted

If it were me, I would build a green, add a bunker, or two, and just leave the rest as it is. Of course, I would cut some of the "rest" to a usable height. 

I would add grass seed to the whole area. Over time it should mix well with the existing grass/weeds. Maybe add some fertilizer to help thicken everything up. 

Maybe add some sod to a few areas, as hitting stations. 

Something else you might want to explore is a DIY, no/low maintenance, synthetic green. This would be handy if, at a later date, you want to change how your green plays. Another plus is your stimp would mimic more closely what you might see when go to a real course. I had a green in my back yard, and over time I got to where I'd miss very few putts since I was so familiar with it. I'd roll up parts of it, add material, to make the gree roll differently. Just make sure you have proper drainage for it. 

And of course you might want to add a full swing, longer club, practice net area. You have plenty of room. 

I am assuming irrigation for the area has been already taken care of. 

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Posted

Thanks for your responses everyone.  

I think I am way over my head if I have to mow it everyday. I was thinking twice a week.  I like the idea of using a synthetic green if this is the case. Then just keep what I have surrounding it.  That way, I dont even have to get a special mower just for the green.  

Yes, I will definitely add a bunker or 2.

Thanks for helping me work this out.  


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Posted
1 hour ago, lonemedic said:

Thanks for your responses everyone.  

I think I am way over my head if I have to mow it everyday. I was thinking twice a week.  I like the idea of using a synthetic green if this is the case. Then just keep what I have surrounding it.  That way, I dont even have to get a special mower just for the green.  

Yes, I will definitely add a bunker or 2.

Thanks for helping me work this out.  

We want pictures of course!!!:-)

Scott

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  • 2 months later...
Posted

Here's a short-game area I prepped for partial wedges and chips:

YardRangeTST.jpg

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 7/22/2016 at 4:21 PM, WUTiger said:

Here's a short-game area I prepped for partial wedges and chips:

YardRangeTST.jpg

 

Gonzo like it!  I've a little bit similar in "Improved Practice Area"

"James"

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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Anyone have experience playing on Tour Green or other artificial putting/chipping green surfaces?

I am considering the same thing as you, but am leaning towards using a large artificial green/fringe with multiple holes and artificial tee boxes from different approach distances and angles...maybe even a sandtrap or two.

Seems like low maintenance would give me more time to just practice.

Something like this but with multiple flags and tee boxes. Image stolen from Internet, not mine.

image22717.jpg

Edited by Joey G

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Posted

 

20161112_233911.png

Like this, with a couple of additional boxes. Just looking for feedback on the playing surfaces by Tour Greens.

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Posted

Depending on what is underneath the synthetic surfaces I've found that they can sometimes be "bouncy", in that a golf ball will behave as though the green was ultra firm (because it is if they compact the sand too tightly underneath it or if it's installed with minimal padding over concrete). Biggest factor I'd be concerned about would be the quality and durability of the hitting surface.

The top setup looks like a broken window waiting to happen if someone tried to flop it and bladed it instead.

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Posted

Any of the companies can do something outdoors. I recommend you check out SynLawn in particular.

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Pretzel said:

Depending on what is underneath the synthetic surfaces I've found that they can sometimes be "bouncy", in that a golf ball will behave as though the green was ultra firm (because it is if they compact the sand too tightly underneath it or if it's installed with minimal padding over concrete). Biggest factor I'd be concerned about would be the quality and durability of the hitting surface.

The top setup looks like a broken window waiting to happen if someone tried to flop it and bladed it instead.

I layed in artificial turf in the back yard. 15 x 45. The hardest and most labor intensive was prepping. I had to dig out all the existing bermuda, till and roll several times. It is recommended that you have a base of DG about 4 inches and compacted with power compactor. (I didn't). It looks fine, and you could hit off it, but it is really too hard as mentioned above. As far as complete weed abatement, and if you could wait about 60-90 days in hot weather, use a solarization technique where you stretch clear vinyl over the area. This will kill all vegetation including roots, but you need to do it in summer months. or you might consider laying in rolls of sod.  There are some more photos/mods under thread Dec 2015 "Improved Practice Area"

 

lawn pep#5.jpg

lawn prep #3.htm

lawn prep#1.jpg

lawn prep#2.htm

lawn prep#4.jpg

Edited by Hacker James
  • Upvote 1

"James"

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Posted
On July 22, 2016 at 7:21 PM, WUTiger said:

Here's a short-game area I prepped for partial wedges and chips:

YardRangeTST.jpg

 

Lol. Love the tee box markers and that you have the option of playing from the "tips"!

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Posted
2 hours ago, Ernest Jones said:

Lol. Love the tee box markers and that you have the option of playing from the "tips"!

ahahahahaha

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Posted (edited)
32 minutes ago, woodzie264 said:

ahahahahaha

yah, on my rinky dink practice station, I had to illegally straddle the line to set up between my Christmas tree ornament markers owing to the width of the mat.  It was an optical delusion. 

Edited by Hacker James

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    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. This prevents the trail side from gaining depth, as is needed to keep the pelvis center from thrusting toward the ball. Most of the "early extension" (thrust) that I see occurs during the backswing. Encourages Early Extension (Thrust) Patterns When you've thrust and turned around the trail hip joint in the backswing, you often thrust a bit more in the downswing as the direction your pelvis is oriented is forward and "out" (to the right for a righty). Your trail leg can abduct to push you forward, but "forward" when your pelvis is turned like that is in the "thrust" direction. Additionally, the trail knee "breaking" again at the start of the downswing often jumps the trail hip out toward the ball a bit too much or too quickly. While the trail hip does move in that direction, if it's too fast or too much, it can prevent the lead side hip from getting "back" at the right rate, or at a rate commensurate with the trail hip to keep the pelvis center from thrusting. Disrupts the Pressure Shift/Transition When the trail leg extends too much, it often can't "push" forward normally. The forward push begins much earlier than forward motion begins — pushing forward begins as early as about P1.5 to P2 in the swings of most good golfers. It can push forward by abducting, again, but that's a weaker movement that shoves the pelvis forward (toward the target) and turns it more than it generally should (see the next point). Limits Internal Rotation of the Trail Hip Internal rotation of the trail hip is a sort of "limiter" on the backswing. I have seen many golfers on GEARS whose trail knee extends, whose pelvis shifts forward (toward the target), and who turn over 50°, 60°, and rarely but not never, over 70° in the backswing. If you turn 60° in the backswing, it's going to be almost impossible to get "open enough" in the downswing to arrive at a good impact position. Swaying/Lateral Motion Occasionally a golfer who extends the trail knee too much will shift back too far, but more often the issue is that the golfer will shift forward too early in the backswing (sometimes even immediately to begin the backswing), leaving them "stuck forward" to begin the downswing. They'll push forward, stop, and have to restart around P4, disrupting the smooth sequence often seen in the game's best players. Other Bits… Reduces ground reaction force potential, compromises spine inclination and posture, makes transition sequencing harder, increases stress on the trail knee and lower back… In short… It's not athletic. We don't do many athletic things with "straight" or very extended legs (unless it's the end of the action, like a jump or a big push off like a step in a running motion).
    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
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