My New Home

[boogielicious]

13 hours ago, newtogolf said:

45* won't be warm enough to keep pipes on outside walls from freezing.  You might consider pipe warmers or keeping the temperature closer to 60* - 65*

I agree with Joe on this. I keep my cottage at 53-55, which is sufficient for RI. Even with that, I drain the water in the pipes. If power goes out, you may not get there in time to prevent freeze up. 

[Abu3baid]

13 hours ago, newtogolf said:

45* won't be warm enough to keep pipes on outside walls from freezing.  You might consider pipe warmers or keeping the temperature closer to 60* - 65*

 

 

I'm going to have someone take a closer look to give me advice on it. Thank you for pointing that out.

9 hours ago, JonMA1 said:

I'm really happy for you Eyad. Despite all the pitfalls that have been mentioned, home ownership is very special. Hard to explain but you likely already understand it.

Perhaps someday when I'm too old to climb a ladder, I'll get something with less maintenance. But for now, I love most of the responsibility and work that comes with home ownership. This from the least mechanically inclined person on the planet. (Thankfully, there are YouTube videos for everything).

You'll surprise yourself by how easy some of these seemingly daunting tasks turn out to be.

 

Thanks Jon.. Yes, I am looking forward to it for sure!

44 minutes ago, boogielicious said:

I agree with Joe on this. I keep my cottage at 53-55, which is sufficient for RI. Even with that, I drain the water in the pipes. If power goes out, you may not get there in time to prevent freeze up. 

I will definitely look deeper into it.. The backup generator should technically go online as soon as the main power goes off-line, so that's one less thing for me to think about.

[14ledo81]

14 hours ago, Abu3baid said:

 

Do you have any examples or advice on how I should address this?  Should I ask before buying what the level of maintenance is?  How do I vet it out I guess?

 

I definitely think it would be a good idea to ask the level of maintenance.  Or see if they can show (or at least have an idea) of projected long term savings.

Domestic water heating is a good example.  For a direct replacement 50 gallon electric water heater, our company charges $675.  If that same customer wanted a tankless gas water heater, the cost would be closer to $2,000-$2,200.  Life expectancies of water heaters are approximately 12 - 15 years.  Looking at that, you would need to save a minimum of $125 a year just to break even.  Add in one service call (much more possible with the tankless), and you are looking at having to save closer to $150 a year.  Doesn't make sense to me.  We do still sell tankless, but it is typically after I have shown these numbers to the customer, and they want one anyway.  They can be more convenient.  As long as you don't exceed the flow rate, you will never run out of hot water.  If you have a large tub to fill (50 gallons won't do it), they start looking like a better choice.  That way you wouldn't have to have two tanks.  Again, we still sell them, but I do not try to sell them based on efficiencies.

Hot water heat is another good example.  Many contractors show the customer (looking for replacement boiler) the 95% efficiency rating on a high-efficient boiler compared to a 84% rating on a new cast iron boiler.  What they don't show is that a boilers efficiency rating is directly tied to return water temps.  If you are heating with high-temp water (180 degrees or so) on a radiator or fin-tube system, the efficiency rating of that high-efficient boiler is actually closer to 88-89%.  If you are looking to get that full 95% rating, you would need to be using a low-temp system (120 degrees or less), like in-floor heat in a concrete slab.  A high-efficient boiler is around $1,000 (can be more depending on brand) than a cast-iron boiler, and the install can be at least another $1,000.  More material as well.  So, up front costs are approximately $2,500 more, and if you have a high-temp system, you are only saving 5% on your fuel bills.  Again, similar to the tankless water heater, the high-efficient boiler is more prone to having service calls.

On the forced air side, we rarely install past the middle of the road furnace.  I am a believer in two-stage furnaces, but not the variable gas valves and blowers.  The variable items typically only add a percent or two to the efficiency (adds some comfort as well), but are usually $500-$800 more than the entry level two stage furnace.

If you have an specific questions relating to your system, I would be willing to give my input.

[newtogolf]

37 minutes ago, Abu3baid said:

I'm going to have someone take a closer look to give me advice on it. Thank you for pointing that out.

Thanks Jon.. Yes, I am looking forward to it for sure!

I will definitely look deeper into it.. The backup generator should technically go online as soon as the main power goes off-line, so that's one less thing for me to think about.

You're welcome, if the house is very well insulated and pipes on outside walls are wrapped you might be okay at 50* - 55* but 45 is too close to freezing imo and once the heat cycles off it won't take long for those outside pipes to freeze.  The type of home heating system will also factor into the equation as well.  Good Luck with the new house.  

[drmevo]

1 hour ago, 14ledo81 said:

I definitely think it would be a good idea to ask the level of maintenance......

Great post - very informative and just goes to show that the advice of a professional should not be overlooked.

As far as Smart thermostats go, I've always wondered if they're really worth it.  At around $250 a pop, it seems like a regular programmable might be a better choice unless you have the cash to spare and want the remote capabilities. 

[14ledo81]

40 minutes ago, drmevo said:

Great post - very informative and just goes to show that the advice of a professional should not be overlooked.

As far as Smart thermostats go, I've always wondered if they're really worth it.  At around $250 a pop, it seems like a regular programmable might be a better choice unless you have the cash to spare and want the remote capabilities. 

 

I think in Eyad's case, a smart t-stat would be a good purchase.  It is a relatively cheap monitoring system.  Keep in mind though, you would have to have WIFI at the house all the time.

[Abu3baid]

6 hours ago, 14ledo81 said:

I definitely think it would be a good idea to ask the level of maintenance.  Or see if they can show (or at least have an idea) of projected long term savings.

Domestic water heating is a good example.  For a direct replacement 50 gallon electric water heater, our company charges $675.  If that same customer wanted a tankless gas water heater, the cost would be closer to $2,000-$2,200.  Life expectancies of water heaters are approximately 12 - 15 years.  Looking at that, you would need to save a minimum of $125 a year just to break even.  Add in one service call (much more possible with the tankless), and you are looking at having to save closer to $150 a year.  Doesn't make sense to me.  We do still sell tankless, but it is typically after I have shown these numbers to the customer, and they want one anyway.  They can be more convenient.  As long as you don't exceed the flow rate, you will never run out of hot water.  If you have a large tub to fill (50 gallons won't do it), they start looking like a better choice.  That way you wouldn't have to have two tanks.  Again, we still sell them, but I do not try to sell them based on efficiencies.

Hot water heat is another good example.  Many contractors show the customer (looking for replacement boiler) the 95% efficiency rating on a high-efficient boiler compared to a 84% rating on a new cast iron boiler.  What they don't show is that a boilers efficiency rating is directly tied to return water temps.  If you are heating with high-temp water (180 degrees or so) on a radiator or fin-tube system, the efficiency rating of that high-efficient boiler is actually closer to 88-89%.  If you are looking to get that full 95% rating, you would need to be using a low-temp system (120 degrees or less), like in-floor heat in a concrete slab.  A high-efficient boiler is around $1,000 (can be more depending on brand) than a cast-iron boiler, and the install can be at least another $1,000.  More material as well.  So, up front costs are approximately $2,500 more, and if you have a high-temp system, you are only saving 5% on your fuel bills.  Again, similar to the tankless water heater, the high-efficient boiler is more prone to having service calls.

On the forced air side, we rarely install past the middle of the road furnace.  I am a believer in two-stage furnaces, but not the variable gas valves and blowers.  The variable items typically only add a percent or two to the efficiency (adds some comfort as well), but are usually $500-$800 more than the entry level two stage furnace.

If you have an specific questions relating to your system, I would be willing to give my input.

 

Thank you.. one of the most informative posts I have seen.

Makes perfect sense.  The house has a gas powered heating system that also acts as a boiler as there is a hot water tank that is also attached to it, along with the 6 heating zones.  I am going to have someone come and just give it a tune up and make sure everything looks good for the upcoming winter.

I am getting mass-save to come and give a free assessment on the overall house energy efficiency, and they can give me their numbers on the heating/AC system.  I'm not sure what they can tell me about the generator, but it's relatively new and only 8KW.

If I need to buy a new system anytime soon I will definitely take you up on that offer and ask as many questions as possible :)

 

6 hours ago, newtogolf said:

You're welcome, if the house is very well insulated and pipes on outside walls are wrapped you might be okay at 50* - 55* but 45 is too close to freezing imo and once the heat cycles off it won't take long for those outside pipes to freeze.  The type of home heating system will also factor into the equation as well.  Good Luck with the new house.  

 

Yeah, I want to find out what's going on with them for sure.. is it possible that none of my pipes are in the outside walls?

 

5 hours ago, drmevo said:

Great post - very informative and just goes to show that the advice of a professional should not be overlooked.

As far as Smart thermostats go, I've always wondered if they're really worth it.  At around $250 a pop, it seems like a regular programmable might be a better choice unless you have the cash to spare and want the remote capabilities. 

 

You make a good point.  For me, it's a matter of being able to see what's going on in the house, since I am going to be away from it.  Also, if I decide to rent it out I'd be able to keep track of how people are wasting energy 

5 hours ago, 14ledo81 said:

 

I think in Eyad's case, a smart t-stat would be a good purchase.  It is a relatively cheap monitoring system.  Keep in mind though, you would have to have WIFI at the house all the time.

 

I'm planning on getting wifi full time anyway because I'm putting a keyless entry that I will need to control from my iphone.  The issue I run into is having the 5 or 6 zones (I can't remember) and having to have t-stat for each one and that's where it gets expensive, and I'm not sure if I would ever see the returns on such investment right?  250*5=1,250 - how long would it take me to save 1,250 on my electric/gas bill by having these smart t-stats?  I don't really know the answer, but I'm going to have to try and find out asap.

[14ledo81]

13 minutes ago, Abu3baid said:

 

Makes perfect sense.  The house has a gas powered heating system that also acts as a boiler as there is a hot water tank that is also attached to it, along with the 6 heating zones.  I am going to have someone come and just give it a tune up and make sure everything looks good for the upcoming winter.

 

 

The piece of heating equipment is called a boiler regardless of whether it has a tank connected to it.  The tank could be a buffer tank that gives the boiler more mass to heat while smaller heating zones pump out of that tank.  It also could be your domestic hot water.  In that case the tank would be filled with domestic water and have a heat exchanger inside that is tied to the boiler.  The heat exchanger is necessary so your domestic and heating water do not mix.

 

13 minutes ago, Abu3baid said:

 

Yeah, I want to find out what's going on with them for sure.. is it possible that none of my pipes are in the outside walls?

 

 

It is possible.  In the climate I live in (routinely reaches -15 every winter), we do not install water pipes in the outside wall.

 

16 minutes ago, Abu3baid said:

 

I'm planning on getting wifi full time anyway because I'm putting a keyless entry that I will need to control from my iphone.  The issue I run into is having the 5 or 6 zones (I can't remember) and having to have t-stat for each one and that's where it gets expensive, and I'm not sure if I would ever see the returns on such investment right?  250*5=1,250 - how long would it take me to save 1,250 on my electric/gas bill by having these smart t-stats?  I don't really know the answer, but I'm going to have to try and find out asap.

 

Talk to a contractor that is familiar with WIFI and controls.  I believe it would be possible to use a "master" WIFI stat that would control all zones.  While using the "master" stat, you would not have individual control over each zone, but if you are not there, that would not matter anyway.

[drmevo]

13 minutes ago, Abu3baid said:

Thank you.. one of the most informative posts I have seen.

Makes perfect sense.  The house has a gas powered heating system that also acts as a boiler as there is a hot water tank that is also attached to it, along with the 6 heating zones.  I am going to have someone come and just give it a tune up and make sure everything looks good for the upcoming winter.

I am getting mass-save to come and give a free assessment on the overall house energy efficiency, and they can give me their numbers on the heating/AC system.  I'm not sure what they can tell me about the generator, but it's relatively new and only 8KW.

If I need to buy a new system anytime soon I will definitely take you up on that offer and ask as many questions as possible :)

 

Yeah, I want to find out what's going on with them for sure.. is it possible that none of my pipes are in the outside walls?

 

You make a good point.  For me, it's a matter of being able to see what's going on in the house, since I am going to be away from it.  Also, if I decide to rent it out I'd be able to keep track of how people are wasting energy 

I'm planning on getting wifi full time anyway because I'm putting a keyless entry that I will need to control from my iphone.  The issue I run into is having the 5 or 6 zones (I can't remember) and having to have t-stat for each one and that's where it gets expensive, and I'm not sure if I would ever see the returns on such investment right?  250*5=1,250 - how long would it take me to save 1,250 on my electric/gas bill by having these smart t-stats?  I don't really know the answer, but I'm going to have to try and find out asap.

I don't know what kind of security/monitoring system you are looking at getting, but our Comcast security system (which I don't feel is necessary but my wife wanted) shows you the temperature at each sensor, which is kind of cool. We were able to get a free security camera thrown in, too.

[Abu3baid]

I am getting some details now.  The heating system is a burnham series 2, anything you can tell me about @14ledo81?  I tried looking it up, but to be honest I got lost with all the technical details I was looking at :)

I am getting someone to do a service maintenance on it, at least now I know what kind it is when I ask them for a quote lol 

[14ledo81]

2 hours ago, Abu3baid said:

I am getting some details now.  The heating system is a burnham series 2, anything you can tell me about @14ledo81?  I tried looking it up, but to be honest I got lost with all the technical details I was looking at :)

I am getting someone to do a service maintenance on it, at least now I know what kind it is when I ask them for a quote lol 

 

I do not know a whole lot about Burnham boilers.  Not a brand we install.  I have heard of them though, and don't think they are bad.

[CoachB25]

My wife and I saved, worked hard and dreamed of our perfect home.  We built it 5 years ago.  It is the best thing we have done.  Everything is exactly how we wanted it.  Recently, we were shocked at our huge energy bill.  It was $110.  LOL  Our old house was easily $300+ all the time.  We had geothermal heating/cooling built in.  Our home is energy efficient in every way. 

If I might, create a "list" to do as you walk around your house.  There is always some work to do.  If you break it down into small pieces and plan accordingly, it can be fun doing some of it.  I just re stained the back deck and stairs.  I planned for it, got my mind right, and got it done.  Now, I walk out there and am so proud of how it looks.  We started a strawberry patch.  It is fun but also requires work.  Our neighbors are thankful that we did as they get some of the strawberries.  Finally, I don't know whether you have a potential water problem with the house.  If so, make sure you have a backup sump pump.  We do and it works.  Noting is worse than having a sump pump go out in the middle of a week of rain. 

[Abu3baid]

Ahhh, yes the unexpected things that can happen.  Just found out that's my beautiful lawn is infested with grubs..

I didnt find out before the damage was done.... basically the roots callapased in this area and couldn't take it anymore.

I already hired someone to treat the whole lawn, and fix this area and some other areas that have suffered.

He is hopeful he can have it turned around before winter and then it will be back to normal next spring.

Im sure it won't be the last thing to come up.

[Club Rat]

On ‎9‎/‎22‎/‎2016 at 0:23 PM, Abu3baid said:

The heating system

Boilers are the easiest systems to zone control and have been used in commercial applications for years.
Nowadays, many home owners are using similar applications for energy savings, especially in second homes, vacation homes, etc.
They are many options to control HVAC systems with internet access.

Here is an example from Zone Controls
 

Quote

 

If your home is like most, temperatures often fluctuate from one room to the next. Whether it’s because of sunlight, room activity or any of the other factors that can affect temperature, a new American Standard zoning system can put control of your comfort right where it belongs - at your fingertips.

With the Acculink™ Zoning system, you’ll be able to set a schedule on your thermostat based on your home’s unique temperature patterns, and control it from wherever life takes you with Nexia™ Home-Intelligence. Every Acculink™ Control comes with remote “climate access”, allowing you to monitor and control your zoning system through any web-enabled device.