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How do you hit a power fade?


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The only difference between a pull-fade and power fade is where the player is aligned. It takes the exact same angles for the swing path and club head to produce a fade.

"Power fade" just sounds sexier than plain old "fade." What this shot really is is a "Non-hook" which is even less sexy. The idea is to use the more powerful in-out swing to hit a shot which will not produce an uncontrollable hook if the timing is slightly off. Pros use it to eliminate the left side of the fairway and aim slightly left of center. Some of these shots are dead straight along the aim line, some are very slight pushes, some may fade slightly right, a very few may even draw slightly. With proper aim, all should wind up on all but the most narrow fairways. Ideally none should hook or slice.

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Why is it easier too mess up the timing with a closed clubface than an open clubface? Why is it easier to hit a fade than a draw? Both require the proper set of positions.

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Why is it easier too mess up the timing with a closed clubface than an open clubface? Why is it easier to hit a fade than a draw? Both require the proper set of positions.

Any particular ball flight, and the swing it took to create it, are counterintuitive. As a relative beginner in the late 80s, I hit a high draw. I got started playing with one guy who hit power fades and another who hit a high draw. They showed me how to hit both and I preferred the draw (the holes on our course when counter clockwise). If I relied on my own intuition, I may have ended up (eventually) with a pull slice.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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I think I got the idea behind “power fade”.

For a text book style swing, you stand with a square clubface pointing at the target, your shoulder line is parallel to the target line. And you swing the club along an inside-square-inside path.

This is the foundation of a solid swing but it could still produce three different results:
A. If the clubface is square to the target line at the impact, you have a perfect straight shot.
B. If the club face is closed to the target line at the impact, you get a draw.
C. If the club face is open to the target line at the impact, you get a face (power face).

So even for a good golfer who can consistently swing the club following the inside-square-inside path, every time he swings there is over 60% of chance of the ball not going to the direction he wants it to go.

But if he intentionally keep the clubface open at setup and most importantly at impact, he will have one predictable ball flight, the fade. Basically eliminating the results A and B and just go for the result C.

The number one requirement for a power fade is an inside-to-inside swing path, this is probably the biggest problem for most weekend golfers. That’s why power fade is an advanced shot for experienced golfers.

Is this thinking correct?
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What is the difference between a power fade and fade?

I have always understood a power fade to be a "pull-fade." A pull travels farther than a straight shot and the fade brings it back to the target.

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Driver - SLDR 430 - 10.5 deg
3 Wood - SLDR HL
Irons - TM Tour CB's                                                                                                                                                                 Wedges - TM                                                                                                                                                                               Putter - Odyssey White Ice 2 Ball

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I have always understood a power fade to be a "pull-fade." A pull travels farther than a straight shot and the fade brings it back to the target.

Pulls with a driver don't necessarily go farther. Oftentimes they go shorter because they don't stay in the air longer. Pulls with a 7-iron tend to go farther because the ball still has enough loft to stay in the air. Drivers are already maximized for launch conditions to get good distance, so lowering the launch angle (and backspin) often makes the ball fly shorter, not farther.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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I have always understood a power fade to be a "pull-fade." A pull travels farther than a straight shot and the fade brings it back to the target.

I guess the simplest answer is that you're wrong. A pull comes from an outside-in swing. I also don't think many people would agree that a pull is stronger than a straight shot.

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Why is it easier too mess up the timing with a closed clubface than an open clubface? Why is it easier to hit a fade than a draw? Both require the proper set of positions.

I think the answer is that, for good golfers, getting your hands through too quickly is a more common mistake than having them lag. So, if the face is closed to begin with, too quick hands can produce a wicked hook with an in-out swing. If you have an in-out swing and an open clubface, a wicked slice is just much less likely.

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Thanks for bringing this thread up the board, really helpful !

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter

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I a power fade with a golf club. I might be able to do it with a baseball bat, as well.

Current Gear Setup: Driver: TM R9 460, 9.5, Stiff - 3W: TM R9, 15, stiff - Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro Black, 18, stiff - Irons: Callaway X Forged 09, 3-PW, PX 5.5 - SW: Callaway X Series Jaws, 54.14 - LW: Callaway X Series Jaws, 60.12 - Putter: PING Redwood Anser, 33in.

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When I try to hit any kind of cut, I just try and feel the ball stick on the clubface longer when I strike it.

Chris Nunes,17 yrs old

In My Bag:
Woods:Nike Sasquatch Tour Model (Driver), Nike Sumo 3 wood
Irons: Callaway X-Forged (Project X 6.0)Wedge: Callaway C Grind 58 degree,Titleist Volkey 54 degree (oil can)Putter Cleveland Classic 2 or Scotty Cameron Santa Fe teryllium "Everyday you miss practicing it...

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  • 2 years later...

Hi guys, Im going to revive this thread - first off im popping my sand trap cherry sort of speak - I read your forum all the time and always get great feed back on items I am looking for IE Fade, grips, etc! So thanks to all of you and this great golf community!

I do have a question to ask about the power fade - everything that Zeph and Drifter have said has made sense to me but what I'd like to know or get clarification on is I start with my iron face already leaning towards the target line (irons) will that cause problems when trying to produce this shot? (I live in Canada we just got 30 cm of snow!) Just curious so when I do get a chance to try it out I know that I have all the key elements in place!

Let me know and thanks again!

Driver: Titleist 907 D2 9.5*

Wood: 3 Wood Cobra S2 17*

Hybrid: 3 & 4 Hybrid Titleist PT 585 H 21* 24*

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If I keep my hips from going forward enough during the downswing I can "powerfade" that sucker off the planet! Not sure that's what you're looking for though...

Yours in earnest, Jason.
Call me Ernest, or EJ or Ernie.

PSA - "If you find yourself in a hole, STOP DIGGING!"

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When I try to hit any kind of cut, I just try and feel the ball stick on the clubface longer when I strike it.

Lol, "dials it in on the face".

-Matt-

"does it still count as a hit fairway if it is the next one over"

DRIVER-Callaway FTiz__3 WOOD-Nike SQ Dymo 15__HYBRIDS-3,4,5 Adams__IRONS-6-PW Adams__WEDGES-50,55,60 Wilson Harmonized__PUTTER-Odyssey Dual Force Rossie II

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Hi Gaber, I always feel a little bit cheated when I hit the driver and fade it. I think I just like the way the draw feels when you hit it. I've been thinking about trying to optimise my launch and spin(thanks Lucius wooding) and I'm thinking about taking my drivers into the shop to see if I can hire the trackman and operating monkey for half an hour. Mind you they want to sell golf clubs and all I want to do is see how much I'm spinning the ball. When I hit the "power fade, it feels "safe", kind of friendlier. I know I'm probably going to be in play, but not as long as a straight or draw.

PS. I went to the range today to hit my 48 inch driver. Now that's a power fader. If I can get back to the ball it's a power fade if I don't make it back it's a FADESLICE.

Taking the above advice may lead to destruction of your golf game. Laughing at it may reduce stress.

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Originally Posted by Ernest Jones

If I keep my hips from going forward enough during the downswing I can "powerfade" that sucker off the planet! Not sure that's what you're looking for though...

What no gravity in Montreal this time of year

Taking the above advice may lead to destruction of your golf game. Laughing at it may reduce stress.

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What no gravity in Montreal this time of year a3_biggrin.gif

Not strong enough to defeat my gravity defying slice abilities! I rarely slice anymore but I used to be able to hit slices of the EPIC variety. Probably still can if I tried :-)

Yours in earnest, Jason.
Call me Ernest, or EJ or Ernie.

PSA - "If you find yourself in a hole, STOP DIGGING!"

My Whackin' Sticks: :cleveland: 330cc 2003 Launcher 10.5*  :tmade: RBZ HL 3w  :nickent: 3DX DC 3H, 3DX RC 4H  :callaway: X-22 5-AW  :nike:SV tour 56* SW :mizuno: MP-T11 60* LW :bridgestone: customized TD-03 putter :tmade:Penta TP3   :aimpoint:

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in all honesty there is no such thing as a 'power fade'. what your probably referring to is a fade the doesn't involve putting excess backspin on the ball causing it to spin up high into the air and come down very steeply. the way i go about playing this shot is to set up down the left, aim my clubface inbetween the target and my body alignment and play the ball a bit father back in my stance then trying to feel like i am covering the ball and driving it out low instead of trying to get underneath it and launch it high.

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Note: This thread is 3054 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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