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Use the alignment marker on the ball when you tee off...that will help you get on a right line with your club. KEEP THE CLUBFACE SQUARE. Make your feet in a parallel line with the alignment marker. The parallel line with your legs is key. Keep your shoulders in the same line which will straighten out your whole body. Feet shoulder width apart with toes slightly out, ball position in line with the inside of your front foot, butt end of the club pointed at your belt buckle. If when the end of the club doesn't naturally point there, then you setup wrong. When you back swing, swing straight back at first. If none of this works, then it might be your grip.


Originally Posted by mvmac

I like this one better  Lainey looks a little goofy in the demonstration.  And as you know Beachcomber we suggest having that ball further forward now.

The checkpoints

- Hips forward

- Handle forward

- Raise the handle slightly

- Hips don't shift back to the right on the backswing

Why do you gotta show me up like that?! :P  Seriously, fantastic video!!!  Great job!!!  Only thing I was surprised to hear was his attack angle comment of being -2 to -1 with the driver? Dave should revise that comment based on the Trackman data that Joesph Mayo and others have published about wanting an ascending blow with the driver.  Especially for the average golfer - who has a slower swing speed.  It is even more important for them to swing up with the driver.

.

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Originally Posted by ajst22

Use the alignment marker on the ball when you tee off...that will help you get on a right line with your club. KEEP THE CLUBFACE SQUARE. Make your feet in a parallel line with the alignment marker. The parallel line with your legs is key. Keep your shoulders in the same line which will straighten out your whole body. Feet shoulder width apart with toes slightly out, ball position in line with the inside of your front foot, butt end of the club pointed at your belt buckle. If when the end of the club doesn't naturally point there, then you setup wrong. When you back swing, swing straight back at first. If none of this works, then it might be your grip.

With a driver... Based on the D-plane for a right handed golfer, you should actually be aimed right of your target (feet, shoulders and hips should be closed to the target line) if you want to hit a straight shot.

.

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Originally Posted by Beachcomber

Why do you gotta show me up like that?! :P  Seriously, fantastic video!!!  Great job!!!  Only thing I was surprised to hear was his attack angle comment of being -2 to -1 with the driver? Dave should revise that comment based on the Trackman data that Joesph Mayo and others have published about wanting an ascending blow with the driver.  Especially for the average golfer - who has a slower swing speed.  It is even more important for them to swing up with the driver.

Yeah, like I said we now advocate hitting up and have been saying it (Erik started this thread) since at least Feb 2011

http://thesandtrap.com/t/44307/hitting-up-or-down-with-the-driver-in-an-inline-pattern

Mike McLoughlin

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Originally Posted by Beachcomber

Why do you gotta show me up like that?! :P  Seriously, fantastic video!!!  Great job!!!  Only thing I was surprised to hear was his attack angle comment of being -2 to -1 with the driver? Dave should revise that comment based on the Trackman data that Joesph Mayo and others have published about wanting an ascending blow with the driver.  Especially for the average golfer - who has a slower swing speed.  It is even more important for them to swing up with the driver.

Mike provided the link, but we've been teaching "hit up" while Joe was still saying it was "impossible" to hit the ball straight if you hit it on the upswing. The D-Plane - and Trackman - take all of about four minutes to understand fully if you have a reasonable background in basic geometry. It's not complex.

The video with James and Dave is "the S&T; way" of hitting driver. We teach virtually all of our students to hit up.

Originally Posted by Beachcomber

With a driver... Based on the D-plane for a right handed golfer, you should actually be aimed right of your target (feet, shoulders and hips should be closed to the target line) if you want to hit a straight shot.

Why would you want to hit a straight shot with the driver? The same rules apply about having a pattern - a ball that always curves towards the target - with the driver as with the irons. And if your baseline is rotated 4° right then you could be aiming LEFT slightly with your feet and whatever else to hit the ball straight if you're hitting 2° up. Besides, very few people have a perfectly parallel baseline. Lots of people rotate them left so they need to be even farther right.

I aim left with my feet to play a push-draw with the driver because of the way it affects the geometry but more importantly because it changes my baseline slightly so that I rotate the baseline right enough that it's still around +2° club path with AoA of +2-3° (i.e. baseline is +4 to +5 or so).

FWIW I've never been a slicer of the golf ball. I learned early on that poor players sliced and vowed never to do it. So I hooked the ball as a kid learning to play the game.

Fixing a slice is, 95% of the time, a matter of fixing the path. It's our "cheater lesson" and it takes about four or five golf balls until people are saying "I've never drawn the ball like that in my life!" And no, it has absolutely nothing to do with rolling the hands or "squaring the face." It's all path.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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Originally Posted by iacas

Mike provided the link, but we've been teaching "hit up" while Joe was still saying it was "impossible" to hit the ball straight if you hit it on the upswing. The D-Plane - and Trackman - take all of about four minutes to understand fully if you have a reasonable background in basic geometry. It's not complex.

The video with James and Dave is "the S&T; way" of hitting driver. We teach virtually all of our students to hit up.

Why would you want to hit a straight shot with the driver? The same rules apply about having a pattern - a ball that always curves towards the target - with the driver as with the irons. And if your baseline is rotated 4° right then you could be aiming LEFT slightly with your feet and whatever else to hit the ball straight if you're hitting 2° up. Besides, very few people have a perfectly parallel baseline. Lots of people rotate them left so they need to be even farther right.

I aim left with my feet to play a push-draw with the driver because of the way it affects the geometry but more importantly because it changes my baseline slightly so that I rotate the baseline right enough that it's still around +2° club path with AoA of +2-3° (i.e. baseline is +4 to +5 or so).

FWIW I've never been a slicer of the golf ball. I learned early on that poor players sliced and vowed never to do it. So I hooked the ball as a kid learning to play the game.

Fixing a slice is, 95% of the time, a matter of fixing the path. It's our "cheater lesson" and it takes about four or five golf balls until people are saying "I've never drawn the ball like that in my life!" And no, it has absolutely nothing to do with rolling the hands or "squaring the face." It's all path.

Well I agree but The face does has to be square. A great swing path with an open face is still gonna slice the ball and it will be worse. Maybe youre trying to say 90% of peoples problems are swing path which I would agree. That article posted earlier about swing paths changed my game and made it really come into perspective.

Bag: Ogio Ozone XX

Driver: :titleist: 910 D2 (Project X 7A3)

3 Wood: :titleist: 910F ;(Mitsubishi Rayon Diamana 'ahina 82)

Hybrid: :titleist: 909H 19* (Diamana Blue)

Irons: :titleist: 755 3-P (Tri Spec Stiff Flex Steel)

Wedges: :titleist: (Vokey 52* 56* 60*)

Putter: Ping Karsten Anser 2

Balls: :titleist: Nxt tour/ Prov1x


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Originally Posted by Jimdangles

Well I agree but The face does has to be square. A great swing path with an open face is still gonna slice the ball and it will be worse. Maybe youre trying to say 90% of peoples problems are swing path which I would agree. That article posted earlier about swing paths changed my game and made it really come into perspective.

Virtually no slicers have a face pointing right of the target (for a righty) at impact. They're almost all square to left. That's my point.

We asked Chuck Evans, who has taught as many lessons as anyone, how many slicers he's seen who routinely start the ball right of the target. He said he didn't even need both hands to count them.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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I can't ever remember really having a slice I've always battled the same thing and thats a straight draw or pull draw.  Everyone I have seen that sliced was all due to path.

Driver: Titleist 915 D3
3 wood: 15 Callaway X Hot pro
Hybrids:  18 Callaway X Hot Pro
Irons: 4-GW Callaway Apex
project x 6.0
Wedges: 54 , 58 Callaway
Putter: 2 ball
Ball: Callaway Chrome

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Originally Posted by Jimdangles

Well I agree but The face does has to be square. A great swing path with an open face is still gonna slice the ball and it will be worse. Maybe youre trying to say 90% of peoples problems are swing path which I would agree. That article posted earlier about swing paths changed my game and made it really come into perspective.

No one on tour has the face square at impact, they have the face aimed right or left at impact.  Guys that draw the ball will have the face aimed right of the target at impact and guys that fade will have the face aimed left.  If a ball is curving, let's say right to left, the ball has to start right of the intended target.

Mike McLoughlin

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Originally Posted by mvmac

I like this one better  Lainey looks a little goofy in the demonstration.  And as you know Beachcomber we suggest having that ball further forward now.

The checkpoints

- Hips forward

- Handle forward

- Raise the handle slightly

- Hips don't shift back to the right on the backswing

Very cool!  Thanks!  If I understand the lesson correctly, he's saying that, with a wood, there needs to be even more forward hip position and body bowing on the downswing in order to level out the descent of the swing to 1-2 degrees.

This conflicts with some who seem to advocate S&T; on one hand, but, think that there should be a less forward hip position with the driver.  It seems they are still trying to hit their woods from behind the ball.


Try to ensure your hip turn is ahead of your arms coming down. No hip turn means you are doing it with your arms and coming across the ball. nice slow swing allows the hips to turn first.


Originally Posted by iacas

Mike provided the link, but we've been teaching "hit up" while Joe was still saying it was "impossible" to hit the ball straight if you hit it on the upswing. The D-Plane - and Trackman - take all of about four minutes to understand fully if you have a reasonable background in basic geometry. It's not complex.

The video with James and Dave is "the S&T; way" of hitting driver. We teach virtually all of our students to hit up.

Why would you want to hit a straight shot with the driver? The same rules apply about having a pattern - a ball that always curves towards the target - with the driver as with the irons. And if your baseline is rotated 4° right then you could be aiming LEFT slightly with your feet and whatever else to hit the ball straight if you're hitting 2° up. Besides, very few people have a perfectly parallel baseline. Lots of people rotate them left so they need to be even farther right.

I aim left with my feet to play a push-draw with the driver because of the way it affects the geometry but more importantly because it changes my baseline slightly so that I rotate the baseline right enough that it's still around +2° club path with AoA of +2-3° (i.e. baseline is +4 to +5 or so).

FWIW I've never been a slicer of the golf ball. I learned early on that poor players sliced and vowed never to do it. So I hooked the ball as a kid learning to play the game.

Fixing a slice is, 95% of the time, a matter of fixing the path. It's our "cheater lesson" and it takes about four or five golf balls until people are saying "I've never drawn the ball like that in my life!" And no, it has absolutely nothing to do with rolling the hands or "squaring the face." It's all path.

Are you saying that you are imparting topspin on the ball with your driver?


Originally Posted by mvmac

No one on tour has the face square at impact, they have the face aimed right or left at impact.  Guys that draw the ball will have the face aimed right of the target at impact and guys that fade will have the face aimed left.  If a ball is curving, let's say right to left, the ball has to start right of the intended target.

Well thats on tour. I thought we were talking about the average golfer or 90 percent of golfers. I think if the person is starting the ball with the face closed and has an out to in swing then wouldnt it be a pull? I think more amateurs have the face square and swing out to in or have the face open and also swing out to in.

So you're saying that an open face and an in to out swing will result in a draw. I think thats backwards. Face has to be closed more degrees than your swing path otherwise you have 2 factors making it go right.

I found this on the ball flight laws article. I think it is telling me that I am wrong but I had the right Idea. A square clubface with an in to out swing will make it draw but draw too much. An Ideal draw has the face opened less than the swing path in to out as explained. Well Hopefully this has helped me with my draw. I have been trying to make the club face square at impact for a draw when I really need to open it a hair or so.

"The true ball flight laws tell us that a push-draw (G) is a result of an open clubface with a swing path that's more inside-out than the clubface is open. For example, if the clubface is 3° open at impact but the swing path is 6° inside-out, the ball will start right (open clubface relative to the target) and curve left (closed clubface relative to the swing path).

How would the old ball flight laws tell us to hit a push-draw (G)? They'd tell us to swing in-to-out while keeping the clubface square to the target. Basically, they'd tell us to hit shot D. Ouch."

Bag: Ogio Ozone XX

Driver: :titleist: 910 D2 (Project X 7A3)

3 Wood: :titleist: 910F ;(Mitsubishi Rayon Diamana 'ahina 82)

Hybrid: :titleist: 909H 19* (Diamana Blue)

Irons: :titleist: 755 3-P (Tri Spec Stiff Flex Steel)

Wedges: :titleist: (Vokey 52* 56* 60*)

Putter: Ping Karsten Anser 2

Balls: :titleist: Nxt tour/ Prov1x


i lowered my swing plane to prevent the ole' out to in swing.   it worked...

In my Grom Stand bag:

 

Driver: Ping G20, 8.5 Tour Stiff
Wood/Hybrid: G20 3W, Raylor 19*, 22*
Irons: R9 5I - SW, TM CGB LW

Putter: Scotty Cameron Kombi-Mid

Favorites: Old Ranch (Seal Beach), Ike/Babe (Industry Hills), Skylinks (Long Beach), Desert Willow (Palm Desert)


I got a tune-able driver with draw characteristics and I worked very hard on swinging in to out and getting my weight going forward. It literally happened over night for me one day. I can hardly explain it, and because it happened so fast, I can play both a draw and fade from the tee box with relative success. As of now, my draw max's out at 260-270 and my fade can go a good 230-240 without too much headwind. More than anything, I'm playing from the fairways now. The right fairways, I might add. Even if my scores haven't sunk dramatically yet , the game is far more enjoyable, at least.

Adjust your grip, set up, and swing path - and things should get moving straighter or left for you. Start slow, too. Go to the range and hit slow speed duck hooks if you have to. Anything to get that motion in your brain and muscles.


Originally Posted by Jimdangles

Well thats on tour. I thought we were talking about the average golfer or 90 percent of golfers. I think if the person is starting the ball with the face closed and has an out to in swing then wouldnt it be a pull? I think more amateurs have the face square and swing out to in or have the face open and also swing out to in.

So you're saying that an open face and an in to out swing will result in a draw. I think thats backwards. Face has to be closed more degrees than your swing path otherwise you have 2 factors making it go right.

I found this on the ball flight laws article. I think it is telling me that I am wrong but I had the right Idea. A square clubface with an in to out swing will make it draw but draw too much. An Ideal draw has the face opened less than the swing path in to out as explained. Well Hopefully this has helped me with my draw. I have been trying to make the club face square at impact for a draw when I really need to open it a hair or so.

"The true ball flight laws tell us that a push-draw (G) is a result of an open clubface with a swing path that's more inside-out than the clubface is open. For example, if the clubface is 3° open at impact but the swing path is 6° inside-out, the ball will start right (open clubface relative to the target) and curve left (closed clubface relative to the swing path).

How would the old ball flight laws tell us to hit a push-draw (G)? They'd tell us to swing in-to-out while keeping the clubface square to the target. Basically, they'd tell us to hit shot D. Ouch."

PULL = The face is only closed to the target line but it is square to the path with an out to in swing.

DRAW = The face is open to the target line but is closed to the path with an in to out swing.

If the face is open to the path it will fade/slice.

If the face is closed to the path it will draw/hook.

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The people who win make the smallest mistakes." - Gene Littler

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I had an intense slice off the tee, and only off the tee. At my weekly lesson last week, my golf pro told me that I was rotating too soon and therefore my body was ahead of the club which was the cause. To fix it, I'm working on keeping my right foot grounded for a split second longer to give my club the chance to catch up to my swing. It's working extremely well


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