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Re-Shafting Driver


HJJ003
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Good Morning,

 

I have finally got some extra spending money to re-shaft my driver shaft that I broke last month. The club is a taylormade burner super fast 2.0 10.5 degree loft. Would it be best to just get it re-shafted with the stock shaft (if thats possible) or is there a particular shaft that would be beneficial for me to try out (22 cap, 95-100 mph swing speed average)? Do you guys typically buy your shaft online and have it re-shafted at a local shop or just have the local shop turnkey it? I am fairly new to details about my golf equipment, and I have always just used what came off the shelf. This broken shaft is giving me an opportunity to explore it a little deeper..just curious as to what to get and where to get it. 

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Wow, you have opened yourself a can of worms...welcome to the world of after market golf shafts. The choices are mind boggling and you can spend as much money as you want to. Your swing speed is probably needing a stiff shaft so start there.

When you google golf shafts the choices of places to buy them is infinite. Ebay can be a good place, I actually found a pretty good shaft for a buddy of mine at rockbottomgolf.com. You can also go to a local shop that does repairs and see if they have anything decent on hand. Most aftermarket shafts by reputable companies will do the trick for you. Aldila, Fujikura, UST, Graffaloy, Mitsubishi to name a few.

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Danny    In my :ping: Hoofer Tour golf bag on my :clicgear: 8.0 Cart

Driver:   :pxg: 0311 Gen 5  X-Stiff.                        Irons:  :callaway: 4-PW APEX TCB Irons 
3 Wood: :callaway: Mavrik SZ Rogue X-Stiff                            Nippon Pro Modus 130 X-Stiff
3 Hybrid: :callaway: Mavrik Pro KBS Tour Proto X   Wedges: :vokey:  50°, 54°, 60° 
Putter: :odyssey:  2-Ball Ten Arm Lock        Ball: :titleist: ProV 1

 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, NM Golf said:

Wow, you have opened yourself a can of worms...welcome to the world of after market golf shafts. The choices are mind boggling and you can spend as much money as you want to. Your swing speed is probably needing a stiff shaft so start there.

When you google golf shafts the choices of places to buy them is infinite. Ebay can be a good place, I actually found a pretty good shaft for a buddy of mine at rockbottomgolf.com. You can also go to a local shop that does repairs and see if they have anything decent on hand. Most aftermarket shafts by reputable companies will do the trick for you. Aldila, Fujikura, UST, Graffaloy, Mitsubishi to name a few.

Thanks for the reply! yeah I was getting a little overwhelmed just google searching for shafts....I will check out some of the after market brands you are referring to and look into a stiff shaft. I came across rockbottomgolf.com last night so I will search a little deeper there. Thanks again!

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I'd head straight for Play it Again and look for a replacement.  The shafts, in old clubs, add nothing to the resale value.  You will want to measure the tip diameter of the broken shaft, or the bore diameter of the hosel (Spell-Czech don't golf).  You can make a shaft tip gauge with a drill bit, a guitar pick, and scissors.  Also, you can broaden the scope of your search by visiting the Golfworks web site and plugging in a few numbers.  That will give you a list of makers and models to keep an eye out for.  Then again, you may want to use your 3 wood or 5 wood (assuming you like their weight and flex characteristics) to pattern your search.  

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In der bag:
Cleveland Hi-Bore driver, Maltby 5 wood, Maltby hybrid, Maltby irons and wedges (23 to 50) Vokey 59/07, Cleveland Niblick (LH-42), and a Maltby mallet putter.                                                                                                                                                 "When the going gets tough...it's tough to get going."

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I am not a shaft expert by any stretch of the imagination, I am constantly amazed at the amount of knowledge some people on TST have about shafts. I don't know where they get their insight from but it is there. I would wait awhile and watch your post, I'm sure some of those experts will lend a hand. But, if it were me I would go to a pro shop and hit a driver with different shafts to see what fits your swing and look at ball flight. I'm not sure they will have your head, the taylormade burner but maybe they have something close to it. God luck.

 

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10 hours ago, HJJ003 said:

Good Morning,

 

I have finally got some extra spending money to re-shaft my driver shaft that I broke last month. The club is a taylormade burner super fast 2.0 10.5 degree loft. Would it be best to just get it re-shafted with the stock shaft (if thats possible) or is there a particular shaft that would be beneficial for me to try out (22 cap, 95-100 mph swing speed average)? Do you guys typically buy your shaft online and have it re-shafted at a local shop or just have the local shop turnkey it? I am fairly new to details about my golf equipment, and I have always just used what came off the shelf. This broken shaft is giving me an opportunity to explore it a little deeper..just curious as to what to get and where to get it. 

Fellow Houstonian, apart from the flex you may want to consider the type of ball flight you like (high, med, or low boring) and apparently spin as well.  You could go to a Golfsmith (now Golf Galaxy or Dick's, who own Golf Galaxy) and try out a few shafts and then buy what you like online and get it fixed on your driver head at the store.  Let us know how it goes. 

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Driver: Taylormade M3 (9o) with Mitsubishi Tensei Blue 65 Stiff-flex shaft.  3-wood: Tour Edge Exotics CB2 (15o) with Fujikura Regular-flex

3H: Tour Edge (18o) with R-flex 80g shaft.  4H: 22o  Taylormade Rbz Stage 2 with R-flex shaft.

Irons (5-PW): Titleist 804os with True Temper reg. flex shaft.  Wedges: 50o deg Titleist SM-7 12o bounce F grind, 56o (bent to 54o) Cleveland RTG sand wedge, Cleveland RTX-3 CB 58o wedge 9o bounce.

Putter: TaylorMade Ghost Monte Carlo w/Super Stroke 2.0 grip

 

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9 hours ago, MGN said:

Fellow Houstonian, apart from the flex you may want to consider the type of ball flight you like (high, med, or low boring) and apparently spin as well.  You could go to a Golfsmith (now Golf Galaxy or Dick's, who own Golf Galaxy) and try out a few shafts and then buy what you like online and get it fixed on your driver head at the store.  Let us know how it goes. 

Thanks for the advice. And will do! Off topic: First Houstonian I have met on here!

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Trying to choose a new driver shaft can be a bit overwhelming...there are so many options available that it can make your head spin.  Let me make a few suggestions to help you navigate through this process...

Start by analyzing how well you hit the club before the stock shaft broke.  Ask yourself questions like this:

  • Did you like it, or were there some things you realized didn't suit you?  
  • Did it produce a good trajectory, or did you hit the ball too low or too high?
  • Were most of your shots straight, or did you tend to miss fairways?
  • Was it a good weight, or did you feel it was too light or too heavy?

This information will give you a starting point, so you'll know which direction to go.  If for example you had a tendency to hit the ball higher than you'd like, then you'll be able to weed out all the high launching shafts and focus on lower launching choices.  If the driver felt too light which resulted in a lack of feel, you'll know to look for a shaft that is a little heavier than the original one.Knowing what you want to accomplish before you start your search will make this project a lot easier.  If you don't have a specific idea of how you want your driver to perform, you'll just be grabbing at straws.

If there is a facility in your area that has a selection of demo clubs, hit some drivers that have shafts that have the particulars you are looking for. Even if it's a different model driver head, if it has the same loft as your driver try it.  You're trying to get a sense of how different shafts feel, so even if it's not the exact head you have, it can still be helpful.

Have fun with this process...the more you learn about what you like (and what you don't like) the more it can help your game.

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Bridgestone j40 445 w/ Graphite Design AD DJ-7
Callaway Steelhead Plus 3 wood w/ RCH Pro Series 3.2
Adams Idea Pro hybrids (3 & 4) w/ Aldila VS Proto 
Bridgestone j33 CB (5-PW) w/ original Rifle 5.5
Bridgestone West Coast 52*, j40 satin 56* & 60* w/ DG S-300
Odyssey White Hot XG #9
Bridgestone B330-RX

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Any recommendations for someone that wants a lower trajectory launch on a new shaft?

I currently have an M1 with the project X black shaft but I hit the ball really high, even when teeing it low. I'm thinking I need a stiff shaft that would provide a lower launch angle and less spin. I've been doing some research online and came across the project X hzrdus T1100 and Aldila Tour Green.

Also, any recommendations on lower gram weight vs higher gram weight? I'm guessing more weight would potentially provide more distance?

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On 2/14/2018 at 2:29 PM, Piz said:

I'd head straight for Play it Again and look for a replacement.  

You will want to measure the tip diameter of the broken shaft, or the bore diameter of the hosel

This and the hosel inside diameter of the 2.0 is .350 unless is a "TP" model, then it'd be .335

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon

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I had the same question about shafts a month or so ago for my SLDR. I ended up going with a Aldila NV75. I had it fitted at 45 in. I have had 3 range sessions and 2 rounds and I am shocked how the ball flys off the club now. I picked up a ton of roll and hit it probably 15 yards farther.

Trollin' is the life

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On 2/20/2018 at 3:31 PM, mpretti said:

 

Also, any recommendations on lower gram weight vs higher gram weight? I'm guessing more weight would potentially provide more distance?

When it comes to lighter shafts vs. heavier shafts, there are a couple rules-of-thumb, but as with anything golf related, there are always exceptions.

  • If two shafts are the identical flex but different weights, the lighter shaft will tend to feel softer and the heavier shaft will tend to feel stiffer to most players.
  • Heavier shafts tend to produce a lower trajectory than light shafts.  However, there are some shafts on the market now that do not follow this general rule-of-thumb.
  • All things being equal, a lighter shaft can be swung faster than a heavy shaft.  A heavier shaft provides better sense for where the club is during the swing which can aid timing and tempo.
  • If the length of a driver is 45" or longer, a lighter shaft tends to work better for most players.  Drivers shorter than 45" usually require a heavier shaft to prevent the swingweight from becoming too light.

The bottom line is lighter shafts are easier to swing, and don't require as much effort to swing fast.  However, I'm a big proponent of shorter drivers (44-44.75") which works best with a slightly heavier shaft.  Because of the shorter length, it won't feel as heavy.  

Bridgestone j40 445 w/ Graphite Design AD DJ-7
Callaway Steelhead Plus 3 wood w/ RCH Pro Series 3.2
Adams Idea Pro hybrids (3 & 4) w/ Aldila VS Proto 
Bridgestone j33 CB (5-PW) w/ original Rifle 5.5
Bridgestone West Coast 52*, j40 satin 56* & 60* w/ DG S-300
Odyssey White Hot XG #9
Bridgestone B330-RX

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Note: This thread is 2266 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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