Mr. Desmond

I don't think coming in shallow is the issue. You will lower the hands a little so you turn a tad steeper and you want to get away from the ball. The wrists deliver the clubhead to the ball - it's a move the clubhead more than move the grip a lot. You might want to feel as if the back of the sole of the club is hitting the sand first.

Find sales on Nike Storm Fits, or go on eBay if you can find Galvin Green. I think the Nikes' that are about 3 yr old should now be at a good price.

When I had success with a 7 or 9 wood, it was with a heavier shaft - 65 or 75g and a shorter shaft length than normal - an inch shorter at times, depending on the starting point.

The latest in the saga: The golfer, who got engaged to Paulina Gretzky in 2013, wrote on Twitter, “Every relationship goes through its ups and downs, but most importantly, we love each other very much and are committed to being a family. Thank you for your love and support.”

Go to callawaygolfpreowned (CPO) and find something you like. They also have other OEMs. There is so much good out there -- Mizuno JPX 900 Forged or the new 919 Forged, Ping i500 or i210 or a mix, etc. , Callaway Apex CF16

I gues the golf world cares to the extent that it might affect DJ at the RC.

Supposedly the affair is causing an uproar at Sherwood CC. Mr. Gretzky is not pleased. Maybe Wayne can counsel DJ to forget the social climber... and return.

Most people know nothing about Miura. It's a clubmaker/golf nut thing. I've owned 3 sets since 1998 - my favorite was the CB-201 (my first set) even though the transition from 7i to 8i was clumsy in design. The feel was dense and solid. Hardly anyone knew the name "Miura" and didn't ask when I played them. I don't know why people feel the need to use "snob appeal" when no one really knows about them. Good clubs - generally unforgiving, not enough bounce. The new designs, I think it's the 9005, are a response to PXG, etc. Don't think it will work for them; they did lose much of their market share, according to my clubmaker, upon PXG coming out, and their sale. We'll see. I demoed the CB-1008 and it was too demanding and I needed more speed. Wish I had the game for their blades. But I'm a realist. I go with what works for me and am trending back to Ping, Mizuno, etc. and their player's CB's.

Thx. I think PXG does that in the PW ... doesn't have the same spring. Asked the clubmaker and he confirmed it. I thought other OEMs might do the same but had not heard - I did see where Ping goes 1/2 inch in shaft length betwen 9i and PW ... I've always had a 1/4 inch separation.

A friend aced a hole this morning - he's glad he played. Ping i200 about 130 yds.

Yes, take a look at my sig - I am concerned that the i500 PW is a lottttt longer (more than the normal gap) than a Ping Glide 2.0 50 in terms of gap- due to my experience with the yardage differences between the 210 and i500 7i. If they kept the same tech in the PW and did not "deaden" it a bit, you'd theoretically have this huge gap between PW and a blade Gap. Thank you.

@Vinsk Now that you've had another 2 weeks to work with the i500, I have a question - how is the transition from the i500 PW to i500 UW to your next wedges? Did you think you needed both PW and UW and do you then go to 56 and 60? My concern is that in comparison to an i210, the i500 had about 10 more yards of carry - does that carry over to wedges?

The Tour Model - you are brave. Stick with the PXG Irons and Hybrids - the rest is fairly ho-hum.

I put the 5i back in the back, but go back and forth - yes, I hit it well, but I hit the hybrid higher and it stops with about the same yardage. I struggled with hybrids forever - swing improved and bought a Tensei 70 Red - high launch shaft with spin - seems to have worked with height. I use two hybrids - a 21 and a 25, then 6-PW, etc, when I'm not using the 5i, of course.

Long term - get graphite shafts now to relieve this pain and potential shoulder issues in the future. Lots of great options are available. Recoil, Aerotech Steelfiber, Accra Tour i, Mitsubishi ... almost everyone has high quality graphite aftermarket shafts.

I've used Dri-Tac's - problem is they get wet, and when soaked, they get slippery. But if you don't do a lot of range time, they will work. I use a cord grip that has reduced taper - Golf Pride MCC +4 but only half of it is cord. Wish it were full cord. Lamkin UTX gets a lot of good review but it's firm

Once again, I am just telling you from sources that know... his game had suffered, he cut out some bulk, they say his game improved. It's not my opinion ... ONCE again, the point is that you can take it too far as to bulking up. Maybe it affects his flexibility? Maybe my point is invalid - are you saying there are no limits? Push, push, push? As to Tiger, yes, he was never as big as the linebacker they described. I think it's an individual assessment. Not saying that exercise hurts -- but it's possible that doing too much of a certain exercise and bulking up instead of toning up, may have a detrimental effect on a game.

Early 2017 was when he was bulking up, and they had his trainer change the program. Just telling you the facts as I know them. But the point is you don't need to bulk up - it's a balance.

I think a balance works - flexibility, balancing, weights (although not necessarily power-like lifting), aerobics (for endurance), you can mix up pilates, yoga, etc. with it, and speed training. And if you can, throwing a medicine ball against a wall - just wish I had that wall. Around 2005 or so, I noticed that golfers had big arms - not only biceps/triceps, but forearms and wrists seemed built up - bigger than the average am. Faster arm speed and strength to get through the rough? Perhaps. But it made an impression. As to weight lifting, everyone's body is different. You don't need to be a linebacker, and you can be at the top of your game without max weight - a golfer is not a weight lifter, he is a golfer. One can get overall tone and strength in the body while maintaining flexibility - and I bet that's the goal of most pros. Of course, their trainers can overdo it. I remember Jason Day about 1.5 yrs ago - his trainer went off the program and had Jason buffed up - his game suffered, and his coach and consultant got into Jason's head that being a linebacker is not the best feature in climbing back to #1. They ratcheted it down.

My experience is that is depends on your speed, angle of atack, etc. Driver and 3 wood have different uses. You hit a driver off a tee and many players are fit into a mid launch, mid spin driver shaft - which is a typical stock shaft in many of today's drivers, as you are receviing help getting the driver to launch with the tee, and setup - ball very forward, spine angle back, etc. The 3 wood - 15 degrees, used off the tee or deck. It's interesting what I see in various signatures and boards is that higher speed guys talk about how they only use 3 wd off the tee and rarely off the deck. Many go to a 16.5-17 lofted 4 wd. Maybe it's the typical 43 inches of the 3 wd that has them lose consistency. But using the typical driver shaft may be a mistake for most golfers because they need launch off the deck with a 3 wd. I go to a shaft that is softer in the tip (low kick) to help launch the ball. I also tend to go 42.5 in. or grip down the club from off the deck. I am still using a 16.5 4 wd instead of 3 wd for more launch, but recently purchased a 3 wd head to pair up with a low kick shaft. Of course, higher speed and stronger golfers may not need as much help. You could take a driver shaft and tip less than recommended. Depends on you as a golfer. I'd get fit and ask questions. As to weight, I throw out the typical recommendations when it comes to fairways, I have a 53g driver shaft and a 55g low kick shaft for 3 and 4 woods. I go to 65g at the 5 wd. I want launch and spin in the lower lofted woods to get the ball in the air.

Irons - depends on whether the shafts still fit me. I want to resist temptation and keep irons for at least 5 years, if not more. Sometimes, though, if the shafts are no longer optimized for your swing, it makes economic sense to get a new set and sell the old one.

With read, bead, speed, I've found you need good tempo - too slow or too quick will throw you off - one gets betters results when you have a tempo where you're not thinking and can just roll the ball

Agree - you've proven it. And my instructor agrees with you. I don't know if this is correct, but when I feel my body "pull" my arms, I know it's time to go after it with the arms.

I like to think about not using my arms because I use my arms too much - I want the lower body and chest to go before I turn on the arms - when I don't get arms-anxious and my body is giving momentum to the arms, my swingspeed does increase by 5 mph and the contact feels great - but I am also generating speed with my arms. I just need to feel my lower body more to properly sequence.

Every once in a while, you get the shameless heckler. Thought the crowd would have at least shamed him, but some people are just ...