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jaften

12 Degree Driver

21 posts in this topic

I have never used a driver as i have always had success driving with a3 wood. I can usually hit between 200 and 220 with it but of late, since ive been playing more, I ve been hankering for more yardage. I was thinking that because of my consistency with my three wood, a move to a 12 degree driver would not upset things much and give me that wee bit extra. Thoughts on this plan. Thanks for reading
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I game a 12 degree driver. I also have a bit of forward press in my setup with causes me to hit the ball low. In my situation it helped. I would suggest getting with a fitter and looking at the numbers on a launch monitor
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The new TM SLDR drivers have a 12* version now, and a 14* version in the works.

Note: stock shaft is 45.5" long - TM leaning back toward control?

Next door, the TM JetSpeed driver has a 13* HL version. Stock shaft is 46" long - or, you can get a 45" shaft if you like to keep it in the fairway.

Details: http://taylormadegolf.com/taylormade/sldr-driver/DW-SQ035.html#tabs-pdpTab2

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The new TM SLDR drivers have a 12* version now, and a 14* version in the works.

Note: stock shaft is 45.5" long - TM leaning back toward control?

Next door, the TM JetSpeed driver has a 13* HL version. Stock shaft is 46" long - or, you can get a 45" shaft if you like to keep it in the fairway.

Details: http://taylormadegolf.com/taylormade/sldr-driver/DW-SQ035.html#tabs-pdpTab2


My impression from reading about the SLDR is that the position of the center of gravity on the SLDR makes the effective loft lower than the stated loft.  If that's the case, the 12 degree may play like a 10.5 degree.  To the OP's question, I am a low ball hitter and have benefited from using higher lofted drivers.  My TM R1 is set @ 12 degrees.

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I have never used a driver as i have always had success driving with a3 wood. I can usually hit between 200 and 220 with it but of late, since ive been playing more, I ve been hankering for more yardage. I was thinking that because of my consistency with my three wood, a move to a 12 degree driver would not upset things much and give me that wee bit extra. Thoughts on this plan.

Thanks for reading

What you may want to do is try a 12-13 degree driver and go with a 44 inch shaft. I would buy an older model (meaning a model that is new but 1-2 years old) or used and take it to a club maker who could place sufficient weight in the head to balance the club for the shorter shaft.

I had the most success playing with a shorter length driver, although I now use 45 inches. My son had a 43.5 inch 10.5 degree Orlimar HipTi that I loved to hit.

The choice depends on who you are as a golfer, your skill level and how much you are working on your swing. If you're not taking lessons, I'd probably opt for the shorter length driver.

I'd say an R1 because you could go with a shorter shaft and buy heavier weights to screw into the head to balance the club -- but that club is similar to a Titleist 910-913 in forgiveness. It's not overly forgiving but a good head for someone who I'd say is a 12 or below capper (in general).

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Take a look at the adjustable drivers out there.

Even a Titleist 10.5 degree can be cranked up to 12 degrees and can always be knocked down if you swing changes.

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As @Mr. Desmond alluded to, it's more the shaft length that makes drivers tough to hit than the loft.
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As @Mr. Desmond alluded to, it's more the shaft length that makes drivers tough to hit than the loft.

Yes!

43.5-44 is very nice. The problem is that many manufacturers have gone to about 46 inches in clubs for higher cappers, and go to a slightly shorter length in low capper drivers. So you need to know how to make the adjustments to balance the head -- golf works has tungsten pads that you can stick to the sole of the head -- probably the best solution if you don't have  a head with screw weights.

I did not see much difference between 44.5-45 (one can always grip down).

Depends on your skill level - the shorter length may result in staying consistently in the fairway.

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I use a 12 degree driver.  I has helped getting my launch a bit higher.

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My impression from reading about the SLDR is that the position of the center of gravity on the SLDR makes the effective loft lower than the stated loft.  If that's the case, the 12 degree may play like a 10.5 degree.  To the OP's question, I am a low ball hitter and have benefited from using higher lofted drivers.  My TM R1 is set @ 12 degrees.

Actually it should launch the ball higher because the CG is lower. If the CG was towards the crown more then it would flight lower. This is why player irons with higher CG's flight lower than GI clubs with lower CG's. What the CG really does is lower spin with gear effect. I've tested the Titleist 913 versus the Taylormade SLDR. Both the same 9.5 loft. Both in the same Diamana shaft. The SLDR launches higher and spin less. The actual height of the shot doesn't decrease, its the flight curve that changes.

I threw two sets of numbers in the Flightscope Trajectory tool on their website (fun thing to mess around with)

The skinny white line is a SLDR trajectory. The solid yellow line is the 913 trajectory. This is what happens when you get 3-4 degrees more launch angle, with about 600 less RPM. You get a ball that starts off higher, but then flattens out into a boring trajectory.

Yes!

43.5-44 is very nice. The problem is that many manufacturers have gone to about 46 inches in clubs for higher cappers, and go to a slightly shorter length in low capper drivers. So you need to know how to make the adjustments to balance the head -- golf works has tungsten pads that you can stick to the sole of the head -- probably the best solution if you don't have  a head with screw weights.

I did not see much difference between 44.5-45 (one can always grip down).

Depends on your skill level - the shorter length may result in staying consistently in the fairway.

Yea i agree. Unless you are a person who hates to grip down. For me, I tend to grip everything the same place, near the butt end. I like the extra weight feel I get. So for me I rather just cut the driver down so I can grip it in the same place.

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Yea i agree. Unless you are a person who hates to grip down. For me, I tend to grip everything the same place, near the butt end. I like the extra weight feel I get. So for me I rather just cut the driver down so I can grip it in the same place.

Agree.

Gripping down is generally a short term solution to see what works, and then cut ... or not.

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My impression from reading about the SLDR is that the position of the center of gravity on the SLDR makes the effective loft lower than the stated loft.  If that's the case, the 12 degree may play like a 10.5 degree.  To the OP's question, I am a low ball hitter and have benefited from using higher lofted drivers.  My TM R1 is set @ 12 degrees.

This is correct. If you look at the engineering diagram in the SLDR ads, it shows the COG more forward toward the face. This makes for a hotter shot, but less lift. So, at 12* you've got a hot face plus decent lift - even more lift with the soon-to-arrive 14* version.

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Are you a high ball hitter? What flex shaft do you play?
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I use a regular flex 3 wd at the moment, I would say my trajectory is right in the middle not too high and not too low. I bought a cheapie 12* on eBay, should arrive on Wednesday, can't wait to get out and try it.
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You might want to look into the DriveWay https://www.golfshopcentral.ca/p-344-kickx-blast-driveway.aspx It's basically a high lofted (12.5*) driver that is designed to be hit off a tee or in the fairway. I've never tried it but @cipher has one and I believe @iacas may have reviewed one.

Edit* Here's Cipher's review: http://thesandtrap.com/products/kickx-blast-driveway

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You might want to look into the DriveWay https://www.golfshopcentral.ca/p-344-kickx-blast-driveway.aspx It's basically a high lofted (12.5*) driver that is designed to be hit off a tee or in the fairway. I've never tried it but @cipher has one and I believe @iacas may have reviewed one.

http://thesandtrap.com/products/kickx-blast-driveway

Having demo'd one of these at a golf outing, it is just a crazy stupid club. I mean that in a GOOD WAY!!!

This isn't your normal 3 wood, its basically a very very LOW CG pumped up 3 wood. You can hit this thing out of any lie in the fairway. I was on the driving range. I threw a ball down in a divot. Launched a ball down range just fine. Put it on the ground, stepped on the ball. It can get the ball up in the air. The only question I think someone needs to ask before buying one of those. Can you stand the impact at sound. It is LOUD, compared to most modern clubs. It is kinda funky looking, heck Nike had a square driver, and this looks better than square. Does it fit in your set. Do you want to replace a 3 wood, or actually replace both. I think for A LOT of higher handicappers it would replace both driver and 3 wood. Just because of were the loft is at. For those who hit the ball farther, its easily one of the THE best strong 3 woods on the market.

That is my plug for the day!!!

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You might want to look into the DriveWay [URL=https://www.golfshopcentral.ca/p-344-kickx-blast-driveway.aspx]https://www.golfshopcentral.ca/p-344-kickx-blast-driveway.aspx[/URL] It's basically a high lofted (12.5*) driver that is designed to be hit off a tee or in the fairway. I've never tried it but @cipher has one and I believe @iacas may have reviewed one. Edit* Here's Cipher's review: [URL=http://thesandtrap.com/products/kickx-blast-driveway]http://thesandtrap.com/products/kickx-blast-driveway[/URL]

Yeah it is great for guys who like the ball tee'd lower as well. It is sized like an oversized fairway wood with a huge sweet spot. Very easy to hit off the deck. Also ping is coming out with a version of this oversized wood in the 13 degree rapture this spring. I want to go test them side by side when it comes out. My money is on the Driveway coming out on top.

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What I like is, even though it is 280 cc 3-wood, that it doesn't look large down by the ball. Sometimes it just feels awkward to sit a large club behind the ball on the deck, this club doesn't. My only reserve for me is, it doesn't fit my set for me. I am almost going to pull the trigger on a low degree hybrid to replace my 3-wood. So I am going the opposite direction.

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