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Posted
Can someone who's a fierce proponent of the "proper" divot tools provide a link to purchase one? I'm curious exactly what model is considered appropriate, since it can be hard to tell from the product photos whether a particular tool fits the descriptions I've seen. I've got one that looks pretty similar to what the OP posted, but it's just a cheap aluminum one I got for free at a golf course (well, not free, you had to promise to fix at least 3 ball marks besides your own). I would like to replace it, though, because I bent it a bit when using it to pry my softspikes out since I'm too cheap to get a real spike wrench.

As for tees, given the behavior around here, I'm not going to complain if someone uses a baseball bat to fix their ball mark as long as they do something . As long as the turf is restored to a reasonable condition, I don't think the difference between 10 and 21 days for root regrowth or whatever is that significant. If you have more details on the study you mentioned, Clambake, I'd be curious, but I suspect it is less relevant to the playability of the green than it is to the health of the grass, so it's not like using a tee is destroying the green. The only signs I ever see of improper repairs are either NO repairs or a big hole dug in the green. I don't know that I've ever seen signs of a repaired mark dying.

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"


Posted
i've been playing with the same divot tool for almost 10 years and somehow i managed to lose it last round. for the last hour i've been scouring the internet trying to find a similar one, but to no avail. it looks like a very very basic tool, but it has a pocket clip. everything i find with a clip is meant for a hat and is too thick for my pocket, or it has a ball marker attached. it looks similar to this, but with a small pocket clip.

This is about the biggest selection of "green repair tools" I have found ... maybe you can find one similar here.

http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/golf_divot_tool/4.html

Mark Boyd of the Clan Boyd
"Retired in my Dreams"

 


Posted
Can someone who's a fierce proponent of the "proper" divot tools provide a link to purchase one? I'm curious exactly what model is considered appropriate, since it can be hard to tell from the product photos whether a particular tool fits the descriptions I've seen. I've got one that looks pretty similar to what the OP posted, but it's just a cheap aluminum one I got for free at a golf course (well, not free, you had to promise to fix at least 3 ball marks besides your own). I would like to replace it, though, because I bent it a bit when using it to pry my softspikes out since I'm too cheap to get a real spike wrench.

My home course keeps a jar of the best type, similar to the photo that the OP posted, on the check-in desk in the pro shop. They sell them for $1.00 each. The best type is one with flat tines with fairly small space between them, just cheaply stamped out of sheet steel. Contrary to what Ben and a couple of others have said, a tee is just about the worst possible choice. When I repair a pitch mark with my cheapo $1 tool, it is invisible afterward, I guarantee to Ben or anyone else that he can't possibly do that good a job with a tee (and don't try to tell me that I don't know what I'm doing or what I'm talking about - ask a qualified golf course superintendent about it). The invisible damage created with a tee takes as long to heal as if he hadn't bothered at all. There is a reason why repair tools exist. If using a tee was as effective then that's what everyone would use.

As in anything else, it only makes sense to use the right tool for the job.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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Posted
Says you. We could go back and forth on this arguement all day. I'm not going to change your attitude, you aren't going to change mine.

You're right, we'll apparently never agree. But it isn't "Says Me" regarding the problem of the tee, it is "Says scientific controlled studies by trained agronomists". I guess you can always choose to ignore the science and the facts. I suppose you also still think the earth is flat and choose to ignore all the evidence to the contrary.

And don't get me wrong, I'm very glad that you properly know how to fix a pitch mark. So many people don't it is a wonder sometimes that any of us actually can sink a putt over 4 feet. But the issue with a tee isn't creating a smooth surface to putt over, it is the longer term damage to the turf. And you won't see this on the green because the next time you play the green it is doubtful that you'll be in the exact same spot and notice that the turf isn't quite as healthy as the surrounding area. So peace.......I'm glad you fix it properly and make it better for other golfers. Now I just wish you'd use a tool other than a tee and make it better for the greenskeepers too.

  • 7 months later...
Posted
what do you do when your ball breaks off a tiny little piece of the green? it happens once in a while, and i realize that putting that tiny little patch of turf/grass back in the ball mark after i repair it isnt going to stay there...

Colin P.

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Posted
I don't know about knocking chunks off the green, but here in WA, super deep cavern sized ball marks happen all the time, and those are difficult to repair.

Posted
I don't know about knocking chunks off the green, but here in WA, super deep cavern sized ball marks happen all the time, and those are difficult to repair.

i have no problem repairing a super deep ball mark, i hit it pretty high, its just that i dont know what to do with the chunk. try and replace it? chuck it?

Colin P.

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Posted
I've had it a couple of times. I'm no greens expert, but I doubt replacing it is going to do much good other than allowing for a small spot to be smooth for a couple of days before that part dies or is swept away by a mower. I just toss it and do my best to make the area puttable for anyone playing after me.
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Posted
I approach the situation keeping two goals in mind. First, if possible, you want your repair to leave the turf in a condition that will allow it to heal and re-grow into healthy grass as quickly as possible. Second, you want the repair to leave as playable a spot as possible for the golfers who will come after you.

With those in mind, if the bit of grass is too small to realistically re-grow, I'll typically just toss it off the green and repair the remaining turf to try to minimize the bumps, being as careful as possible not to detach any more turf. If there's a deep hole and it's helpful to fill it in with the turf, I might set the turf back in and tamp it down, but this doesn't come up much on the green. (On fairway divots, I'll sometimes fill in a divot with turf that isn't going to grow back, just so there's not a deep divot someone could get stuck in.)

In the bag:
FT-iQ 10° driver, FT 21° neutral 3H
T-Zoid Forged 15° 3W, MX-23 4-PW
Harmonized 52° GW, Tom Watson 56° SW, X-Forged Vintage 60° LW
White Hot XG #1 Putter, 33"


  • Administrator
Posted
i have no problem repairing a super deep ball mark, i hit it pretty high, its just that i dont know what to do with the chunk. try and replace it? chuck it?

You throw the chunk off the side of the green. It's not going to "live" and putting it back in the hole will just slow down the healing process.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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Posted
throw away the chunk. using a tool and/or putter toe move turf from the sides and then tamp down to smooth out.

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Posted
I don't know about knocking chunks off the green, but here in WA, super deep cavern sized ball marks happen all the time, and those are difficult to repair.

I know your problem with the craters that can be left on some greens. Unfortunately, they are hard to repair. but, I have figured out what works for me. First I throw away any loose grass as it will not grow back and it will only impede the healing of the ball mark. Then I tamp down the edges first which helps make the opening smaller. I then make the repair. However, I use my Mark Mender ball mark repair tool instead of the old fashioned tools. It’s built so it cannot be misused. You can see a video of it repairing a Gigantic

ball mark Crater at www.markmender.com . Plus, it’s faster, easier and it also works as a grip rest and cigar holder.

Posted
Definitely toss the piece of turf that was detached. It's done. Repair the ball mark without it. Start TWICE as far out from the sides of the crater as you normally would. Move some turf towards the crater, then move the edges in to fill in the hole. Smooth out the whole area with the bottom of a Scotty Cameron.

 :macgregor: V Foil 8.5*    :tmade: Mid Rescue 16*  -- :wilsonstaff: RM  2 thru Wedge -- :vokey: 56/10  -- :scotty_cameron: Studio Design 2  & a  :srixon: Z Star 


Posted
Definitely toss the piece of turf that was detached. It's done. Repair the ball mark without it. Start TWICE as far out from the sides of the crater as you normally would. Move some turf towards the crater, then move the edges in to fill in the hole. Smooth out the whole area with the bottom of a

there you go...haha


Posted
Throw it away, fix the mark.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

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Posted
Not a bad idea, but will it repair ball marks better than a properly used ordinary tool? The difference as far as I can see in the process is that the Mark Mender move the grass and roots in all the way down, while with a normal tool you stick it down and push only the top part of the grass into the hole. It's design may even prevent you from certain moves when fixing a divot, giving you less control.

I don't think it will revolutionize anything, but if it helps some people repair ball marks better, I'm for it. I'm not a fan of the size though, I don't like wearing big items in my pockets when playing golf. This tool is significantly larger than a curved ordinary tool, which most of the time lies against the thigh, hardly noticeable.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

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Posted
Not a bad idea, but will it repair ball marks better than a properly used ordinary tool? The difference as far as I can see in the process is that the Mark Mender move the grass and roots in all the way down, while with a normal tool you stick it down and push only the top part of the grass into the hole. It's design may even prevent you from certain moves when fixing a divot, giving you less control.

Zeph,

Your post made me smile. I'm hoping your comment about "giving you less control" is a good thing, as more control is what usually causes most golfers to make the bad repairs. You are right about it probably not revolutionizing golf, as the golf world is VERY slow to change in many ways. So even if it is better, it may take years for it to catch on. Soft golf spikes were rejected by the industry almost 10 years before they began to take hold. We've sold about 75,000 over the past 5 years. That's a start but it's not even a small dent in the total market. This is what made me smile: Regarding "wearing big items in my pockets". Please be aware that the aluminum and plastic Mark Menders are about the size of a Bic lighter, are smaller than many other tools and weigh about an ounce. The zinc tool is slightly heavier for those who like that feel. Respectfully, you may be over thinking this aspect. It actually was designed not to be uncomfortable in your pocket. In other words, carrying mine with me has not affected my handicap index at all.

Note: This thread is 2983 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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