Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
TimG3394

Draw vs push draw

12 posts in this topic

Why would one elect to play a push draw instead of aiming right of target and play a straight draw?
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sign up (or log in) today! It's free (and you won't see this ad anymore)!

Sign up (or log in) today! It's free (and you won't see this ad anymore)!

Originally Posted by TimG3394

Why would one elect to play a push draw instead of aiming right of target and play a straight draw?

I don't know that there is an answer to that.  Both are acceptable.  Heck, if you really wanted you could go even further left and play a pull draw. :)  I've learned (on this website, no less) that two of the greatest players of all time (Jack Nicklaus and Lee Trevino) both played push-fades.  They just aimed further left to account for it. :)

The only important part is being able to repeatedly stay within your shot-cone. http://thesandtrap.com/t/39974/shot-cones/0_30

How you line your feet up to said cone is up to you.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

as soon as I can actually choose to push or pull or draw or fade on purpose and consistently, I promise to post and opinion

hell - I'd be THRILLED to post an opinion

I can do it, on a good day, if the rest of my swing isn't gunked up, and the stars are aligned.....those are good days.

I'd just be happy to have one of those in the books - I'd hit it all the time.

(I assume the advantage to any swing is that it's the one the individual can do most consistently and effortlessly)

having more than one of those in your repertoire is a huge bonus and likely separates the exceptional from the decent....

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Why would one elect to play a push draw instead of aiming right of target and play a straight draw?

Because a slight pull on a push draw is a straight draw and a slight pull on a straight draw is a big hook.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

IMO it is just personal preference on what they have more control over and can do more consistantly.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by cipher

Because a slight pull on a push draw is a straight draw and a slight pull on a straight draw is a big hook.

If you are playing for a push draw and you hit a straight draw, you are left of your target.  If you are playing for a straight draw and hit a pull draw, you are left of your target.  If the "slight" is the same amount on both shots, then you are exactly the same amount left of the target on both shots.  There is no difference.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by Golfingdad

If you are playing for a push draw and you hit a straight draw, you are left of your target.  If you are playing for a straight draw and hit a pull draw, you are left of your target.  If the "slight" is the same amount on both shots, then you are exactly the same amount left of the target on both shots.  There is no difference.

I am obviously no expert.   However, for me if I align my body to the right I have a tendency to come over the top. Slight pull was the wrong way for me to describe it.  I would tend to hit an over the top pull hook, or as ssssshhhhaaank.  For me the miss left is worse if aiming the body to the right.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I personally prefer a push draw because when I set up square to the target line, I can see the target better.  If I have to set up to the right of the target, the target is a bit behind me and I just don't feel like I'm as well connected to the target, if that makes sense.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by cipher

I am obviously no expert.   However, for me if I align my body to the right I have a tendency to come over the top. Slight pull was the wrong way for me to describe it.  I would tend to hit an over the top pull hook, or as ssssshhhhaaank.  For me the miss left is worse if aiming the body to the right.

Originally Posted by David in FL

I personally prefer a push draw because when I set up square to the target line, I can see the target better.  If I have to set up to the right of the target, the target is a bit behind me and I just don't feel like I'm as well connected to the target, if that makes sense.

I bolded what I think is important.  Physics-wise, (please somebody correct me if I'm wrong :)) there is no difference.  Whatever is easiest, or most comfortable to each person is what matters.

For the record, I think the push-draw is more appealing to me for basically the same reason as David ... plus one more:

If I'm playing a push draw, I don't have to worry about screwing myself up before I hit the ball.  I align myself to the target and as long as the amount of push and draw match each other, I'm ending up at my target.  But I don't really need to know exactly how much draw that will be, could be 1 yard, could be 10.  If I'm playing a straight draw or a pull draw, then I need to know EXACTLY how much I intend to draw it to pick my start line.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Everything else being equal, wouldnt the push draw have a bit higher ball flight?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

A push draw is a draw, just maybe a more specific way of defining the shot.  Like saying pull draw, meaning the shot start left of your start line or your body lines and curves further left (for a RHG).  "Push" just means the face was aimed right of the target at impact with the body alignments pretty square to the target at address.  That's how most pros draw the ball, aim the body at the target and aim the face right of the target.  Hitting down create some "out" and let's say the swing direction was 2 degrees to the right, so swing path will be about 4-5 degrees out with a face 2 degrees right at impact, push draw.  Aiming more right at address would just add more of a rightward path, so take the same exact swing but aim the body a little more right, now the swing direction has gone from 2 to 5, now the ball will curve more.  Could be a good way for someone who tends to swing a little left, works on it but still struggles with Key#2 and 3, to help them draw the ball.  Or even something beginners can do as long as they don't get into a bad habit of aiming right and trying to pull the ball to the target.  Like GD said Fred Couples and Jack Nicklaus just do the opposite, they aimed their body left which pre-sets the path left but you can still hit "out" at the ball.

This is why if you want to draw the ball with a driver we recommend you aim the body a little right.  Because hitting up means you're path will be "in" or left somewhat.

Good image to check out

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Basically, "push" and "pull" relate to body lines. ALL successful draws start right of the target (for a RHG), but they can be pull draws, straight draws, or push draws. It just helps someone understand more specifically what kind of draw it was, the height they'd expect to see, the mechanics one might be likely to use, etc.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2017 TST Partners

    PING Golf
    Leupold Golf
    Snell Golf
    Talamore Golf Resort
    Lowest Score Wins
  • Posts

    • 2/27 - Mirror work at the gym. Focused on float load feel at transition.
    • And the ankle is on the circumference of that circle, or really even a little outside of it, not within it. So why would you be making a radius around the ankle?   Again, you shouldn't rotate around the ankle, you should rotate away from it. So even if you rotated parallel to the ground, then the basic geometry says the distance between the ankle and hip must still increase. To keep that distance the same would just about require rotating on an incline that is tilted in the wrong direction. It's just hard to imagine what the swing you are describing looks like. Sway so bad you really do end up centered over the trail ankle, followed by a massive reverse pivot?       
    • I'd estimate it's in the 40-50 course range, mostly in the Carolinas.  Some of my favorites have been: Caledonia- Pawleys Island, SC Thornblade- Greenville, SC Stono Ferry- Charleston, SC Rocky River- Concord, NC The Walker Course- Clemson, SC  
    • Just finished a big (multiple week) job on my truck and I wanted to point something out to anybody willing to read this. I sometimes get crap from people (mostly co-workers and stuff) about "how can you afford this/that, you must make the big bucks." No. I would have to say the #1 reason my wife and I have as much money in the bank as we do is these top 3 reasons: 1. We don't have kids (lol, that was an easy/obvious one) 2. We don't blow money on big $100+ drinking nights out or fancy restaurants even though we can afford to do so. We enjoy the little things and we are happy to have a nest egg to keep our stress levels lower 3. I do a lot of DIY, including with our vehicles. And it's the vehicles that pays off BIG TIME. Case in point: My truck is old but I still love it. But it had creaking and wobbly sounds that were tough to diagnose. Not a single mechanic I brought it to could properly diagnose it (by a LONG shot). So obviously they all recommended to start replacing the typical suspects and see which one ends up fixing it: wheel bearings, front rotors and pads, ball joints, sway bar bushings, tie rod and bushing, sway bar end links, control arm bushings (I ended up not installing), and shocks. Those were all suspect.  All of this work was quoted at >$4,000. The lower ball joints alone was $1,000 just for labor, by the way. The truck is only worth probably $3-4k.  I bought all of the parts for $180 + $50 for 2 nice new deep socket sets + $75 for some harbor freight tools including and angle grinder, some better jack stands, an air chisel, grease gun, etc. + $40 for a NICE Milwaukee metal drill bit set So total was $305 for parts and NEW tools. Plus I rented a couple things that I turned out not needing. BTW I did the wheel bearings a few weekends before this but that wasn't long and only $100. That wasn't in the shop's quote since I had already done them. The work took about 22 hours total over 2 weekends. Car was safely drive-able after each weekend no problem. 1. I'm a ROOKIE mechanic at best lol. 2. This is on a freaking DODGE. Dodge's are notorious for being a royal pain in the caboose. 3. 2/3 of the total time was spent on one side of the car learning how to do this stuff as I went (and youtube).  4. Everything was rusted to hell. That takes time. 5. I don't even own a freaking impact gun guys. That's like the fundamental mechanic's tool to have, and I don't because I'm a cheap guy haha. So bottom line, $300 for parts and some new tools I can use anytime in the future, and I now have $4,000 in our bank account that is free to use. I also know that it was done CORRECTLY. And isn't it funny that the rookie mechanic (who hit his own thumb with a sludge hammer in the process... yea that hurts (still...)) completed this job with rookie tools, rookie knowledge, on freaking jack stands, in less time than the quote 25 hours to complete the job that the shop quoted? I understand they quote based on worse case (having to cut parts out because of rust and such) but EVERYTHING on this truck was rusted beyond belief and had to be cut out basically. I still handled it in < 22 hours.  Ask yourself: would you be willing to work hard for 22 hours at a rate of ~$168 per hour? Granted there's some risks involved. Maybe some people they aren't worth it. But I even factored in if I had to rent a car for a few weeks because I royally effed up  I'd still come out way ahead.
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Blog Entries

  • Today's Birthdays

    1. Dragondrake
      Dragondrake
      (57 years old)
    2. Mistabigevil
      Mistabigevil
      (36 years old)
    3. Taylor56
      Taylor56
      (61 years old)
  • Get Great Gear with Amazon