Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 3117 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
13 hours ago, Mr. Desmond said:

^^^

Let me correct some of the above.

Okay, got the club out of the bag and did inside work. If you're connected and hinge correctly when taking the club back, then when the club is just above parallel (with hinge) going back with the clubhead outside your hands, the bearings fall, and you can finish the backswing any way you want.

And then begin the downswing with the lower body.

1. Let me add to the above - swinging in slow motion and swinging on the range are 2 different things. Swing slowly inside, these bearings will slide down the shaft sooner, as shown above. With a slow, but more normal swing motion to the top, the bearings will slide down near the top. It does not take much upward motion of the bearings to slide.

Since it is a real golf club in which you hit real golf balls, you're not going to like everything you see if you are looking at the ball. Don't take results into account. The result is whether you keep the club at the top and start your downswing from the ground up.

2. Other things to do - watch pros who keep it at the top. I'd watch some Japanese pros at the Nelson on the range, and they'd leave the club there and the lower body would go first.

3. Another drill I do without a clubs is to put my right arm under my left elbow (just above the elbow and provide resistance as you practice a swing - the resistance should keep your back to the ball so you are not lunging, and you want to feel the weight on the front foot and hips strongly clearing, belt buckle to the sky.

Good luck. It's hard work.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Administrator
Posted
16 hours ago, Mr. Desmond said:

If you are taking the club inside and/or too flat, you've got issues if the marbles don't roll down the shaft.. If the bearings are not moving down, take the club back slightly more upright. Remember, it is a swing aid. The bearings don't lie.

Pretty sure he meant the shaft is horizontal at the top, in which case the bearings wouldn't move down the shaft while you "wait" at the top of the backswing.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
6 hours ago, iacas said:

Pretty sure he meant the shaft is horizontal at the top, in which case the bearings wouldn't move down the shaft while you "wait" at the top of the backswing.

You are correct. No movement when truly horizontal.  As you know, it is tough to explain training aids, techniques, etc, unless you do this on a daily basis. I don't.

It's tough to explain, but when I am at the top, the bearings slide - I don't go completely horizontal. 

Still, it's one of the better training aids I've found for that issue.  An easier  drill is right arm holding back the left elbow and then planting that front foot with pressure and then hips. I use them in tandem.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I like the idea of starting the club slow from the top and then gradually accelerating it. I phyisically swing slow to about shoulder height and then swoosh through. I do this several times and then go back to what I call a normal swing. Hope this helps.


Posted

I've seen the drill in the OP before, and couldn't actually hit a ball worth a lick when doing it! I can see it being useful in practice swings. Harvey Penick advocated a variation of this with a drill that had you initiate the downswing by bringing the right elbow (RH swing) back to your side and getting the weight into your left foot. He taught this as one move, not 2 separate moves, He said to practice this by repeating the "downswing initiation move" three times per swing. Elbow into side, weight into left foot, back to top. Elbow into side, weight into left foot, back to top. Elbow into side, weight into left foot, and complete the swing.

And I'm kind of in Jack Lawson's camp here. I can't be lollygagging around on the backswing. That only seems to accentuate my tendency to jump from the top. A lot of us grew up with the "slow, smooth backswing" advice. Nothing wrong with smooth, but look at the Tour pros. The vast majority of them don't waste any time getting the club back. Their entire swing lasts barely a second.

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
On 4/21/2017 at 9:54 PM, gregsandiego said:

What do you guys think of this?

Because this is a constant issue for me I'm always looking for a fix.  This drill seems good because it forces the backswing. The only problem is it is hard to make a clean hit after posing for 3 seconds. Surprisingly bad shots result.

 

He mentions this in the video. He says if you make contact that's a positive, because his first and second shots were not good with this drill. It's not about the strike but enforcing the feel.

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted (edited)

Yes, the drill at the top of the post is a great drill.  I would even try to hit balls with a full back swing, slow down at the top, and swing down even slower than your normal backswing.

Hit the ball only 10-15 yards.  

If you're not making solid contact the you need to slow your downswing even more while only hitting balls 10-15 yards.  

Do this over and over patiently.  This is the HARD work part of getting better.

Edited by vjgidda

Posted
On 5/17/2017 at 8:23 AM, vjgidda said:

Yes, the drill at the top of the post is a great drill.  I would even try to hit balls with a full back swing, slow down at the top, and swing down even slower than your normal backswing.

Hit the ball only 10-15 yards.  

If you're not making solid contact the you need to slow your downswing even more while only hitting balls 10-15 yards.  

Do this over and over patiently.  This is the HARD work part of getting better.

Thanks for the encouragement.

I use old Taylor Made clubs from eBay and golf shops.


Note: This thread is 3117 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I'm not sure you're calculating the number of strokes you would need to give correctly. The way I figure it, a 6.9 index golfer playing from tees that are rated 70.8/126 would have a course handicap of 6. A 20-index golfer playing from tees that are rated 64/106 would have a course handicap of 11. Therefore, based on the example above, assuming this is the same golf course and these index & slope numbers are based on the different tees, you should only have to give 5 strokes (or one stroke on the five most difficult holes if match play) not 6. Regardless, I get your point...the average golfer has no understanding of how the system works and trying to explain it to people, who haven't bothered to read the documentation provided by either the USGA or the R&A, is hopeless. In any case, I think the WHS as it currently is, does the best job possible of leveling the playing field and I think most golfers (obviously, based on the back & forth on this thread, not all golfers) at least comprehend that.   
    • Day 115 12-5 Skills work tonight. Mostly just trying to be more aware of the shaft and where it's at. Hit foam golf balls. 
    • Day 25 (5 Dec 25) - total rain day, worked on tempo and distance control.  
    • Yes it's true in a large sample like a tournament a bunch of 20 handicaps shouldn't get 13 strokes more than you. One of them will have a day and win. But two on one, the 7 handicap is going to cover those 13 strokes the vast majority of the time. 20 handicaps are shit players. With super high variance and a very asymmetrical distribution of scores. Yes they shoot 85 every once in a while. But they shoot 110 way more often. A 7 handicap's equivalent is shooting 74 every once in a while but... 86 way more often?
    • Hi Jack.  Welcome to The Sand Trap forum.   We're glad you've joined.   There is plenty of information here.   Enjoy!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.