Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 2783 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

has anyone had experience with the rogue draw driver?

I have a habit of fading off the tee and end up in the bushes or the next fairway. Will a rogue draw driver help me?

I also want to know its obviously something to do with my swing if I get the Rogue Draw and improve my swing will it over compensate and end up on the other side of the fairway?


Posted

No matter what club you buy the ball is going to follow the ball flight laws. So the short answer is: No, no club can help you hit a draw if you slice.

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

most of my drives hit the centre of the fairway in the air but fade massively late in the air. Would you recommend just buying the rogue driver and learn to hit that straight? obviously fading is not an easy issue to fix if they come out with the draw model. lol

 


Posted
10 hours ago, Steve4445 said:

Would you recommend just buying the rogue driver and learn to hit that straight?

I would recommend taking lessons if you haven't.  If it's fading too much, bordering on a slice, your swing path may be too far outside to inside.  Feel free to create a swing thread.  you'll get some good advice there.  But lessons would be money better spent than a top dollar driver IMHO.

Diego’s Gear
Driver: Callaway Great Big Bertha at 11.5*
5W: Taylormade Jetspeed 19*
Hybrid: Ping G5 22*
Irons: Mizuno MX-23 4-PW
Wedges: Cleveland RTX 2.0 50*, 54*, 58*
Putter: Ping Ketsch 33”
My Swing: https://thesandtrap.com/forums/topic/93417-my-swing-foot-wedge/

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Lessons.  Ball flight laws.  Getting fit for your clubs is a great idea (so go ahead, but don't just pre-assume any specific club), but in the end, it's all about your skill.  I'm getting fit in a couple weeks and kinda want to end up with the Rogue, but I hit stock drivers Saturday and it didn't help at all, the Epic and the M4 looked a LOT better (all stiff shafts, but different brands and models, so who knows?).  But I'll still go to the fitting and hit several and see what happens after they all match shaft and heads and pick the best one that pleases my eyes....

and once I get the new wood set, I'll still have to 'hit' them right...

 

Unless this is just a stealth vendor ad - if so, we'd all be super happy if you wanted to donate a few Rogues for member reviews......   :-D

  • Like 1

Bill - 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

What you want to do is fix your swing path before investing in the Rogue.  The Rogue Draw from what I have heard, is a VERY draw biased club. So once you have a correct swing path, you would be constantly fighting a hook. Then get fit for the Rogue by a certified fitter in whatever configuration works best.

Full disclosure, I have a regular Rogue and I did not get properly fitted, other than hitting a couple different shafts and heads, including the draw on a monitor.

Don

In the bag:

Driver: PING 410 Plus 9 degrees, Alta CB55 S  Fairway: Callaway Rogue 3W PX Even Flow Blue 6.0; Hybrid: Titleist 818H1 21* PX Even Flow Blue 6.0;  Irons: Titleist 718 AP1 5-W2(53*) Shafts- TT AMT Red S300 ; Wedges Vokey SM8 56-10D Putter: Scotty Cameron 2016 Newport 2.5  Ball: Titleist AVX or 2021 ProV1

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

thanks for the response guys, I've been playing for all of about 2 months.

I had my first lesson last week which he got me to bring my hands closer to my body (my hands were outstretched) causing a later fade on my irons and the driver. It took a bit to get used to but my iron work is pretty good now but my driving is still a big issue. During the lesson I was hitting them beautifully but then straight after on the course I was missing most fairways haha.

I will look to book in some more lessons and then try and fix from there, in the meantime its hybrid off the tee which I can hit straight 90% of the time.

the main reason why I was looking at asking you all is because I was trying to avoid a fitting purely as I was looking at the rent to buy options online and I don't want to go into a shop let them fit me up and go elsewhere that would be a bit of a dick move on my part. I think I will continue with lessons and Save my pennies to buy it outright from somewhere that can fit it to me.

 

  • Upvote 1

Posted

The ball only goes where the golfer's swing hits it. There are no "magic" clubs out there. 

I don't know what the club cost the OP is talking about, but it might cover the cost of a few lessons. Those lessons could fix the swing causing those fade/slices. 

In My Bag:
A whole bunch of Tour Edge golf stuff...... :beer:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted (edited)
On 26/03/2018 at 11:02 AM, dbuck said:

What you want to do is fix your swing path before investing in the Rogue.  The Rogue Draw from what I have heard, is a VERY draw biased club. So once you have a correct swing path, you would be constantly fighting a hook. Then get fit for the Rogue by a certified fitter in whatever configuration works best.

This comment resonates with me.  I used to have a big fade/slice.  My first adjustable driver I played with it and set it to compensate as much as I can.

......then I took two freaking lessons.......just two....but I took the info seriously and practiced a lot

Shortcut to a short time later.  I put my 'adjustable' driver settings all back to default and never moved them since.  So much of the 'adjustability' IMO is just a sales pitch.  Get a decent swing, then go get fitted with clubs that match a good swing.  (fix your swing FIRST, then gear).

 

There's no magic bullet or piece of equipment I suspect.  Except for that "Square Strike" wedge - THOSE guys were HORRIBLE in the commercial and magically got better - - - so it must work.

15 hours ago, Steve4445 said:

I don't want to go into a shop let them fit me up and go elsewhere that would be a bit of a dick move on my part.

If you get a fitting and don't buy gear, they still get paid for the fitting.  Don't let that bother you. 

(What you need to be cautious is when the fitting is 'free' if you buy gear.  You need to make sure you are getting a good fitting, and not just a dog and pony show to make the sale.  It's a good deal, though, as long as you get the 'free' fitting from someone decent)

Edited by rehmwa

Bill - 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

If you have only been playing for about 2 months as you said above, work on your swing first unless you have the money to spend. I wouldn't jump into a draw biased club right away though. What are you using now?


Posted
6 hours ago, cooke119 said:

If you have only been playing for about 2 months as you said above, work on your swing first unless you have the money to spend. I wouldn't jump into a draw biased club right away though. What are you using now?

Yep Decided to take more lessons first, I have a hand me down Taylor made  driver at the moment that is probably 15 years old. I have had one lesson and most of the drives were going straight when he got me to change where I had my wrists and to cock my left hip. I played a round straight after and have been at the driving range and other rounds and I cant replicate it. Currently I am using the hybrid off the tee so I hit it straight.

 


Posted
On 3/26/2018 at 9:33 AM, rehmwa said:

Unless this is just a stealth vendor ad - if so, we'd all be super happy if you wanted to donate a few Rogues for member reviews......   :-D

Yeah, but me first......

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/26/2018 at 8:27 AM, Foot Wedge said:

I would recommend taking lessons if you haven't.  If it's fading too much, bordering on a slice, your swing path may be too far outside to inside.  Feel free to create a swing thread.

I know several golfers who were baseball players or softball players and complain of slicing the driver. They hit their irons OK, but slice the driver. A lesson can help you find the root cause of your slice.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Draw biased clubs are not bad and can help to fix a fade.  But, really only if that fade is created at your club face. 

It sounds to me like you are pulling your driver left and fade/slicing back to the middle.   This is created by path.   

If your fade is path driven and you buy a driver that helps close the face, you'll just end up with nasty duck hooks.   ick.  

 

fix that path.  then, if you have the path going in-to-out, and you are just leaving the club face open creating a push fade, then you might consider driver settings.  

 

 

:tmade:  - SIM2 - Kuro Kage silver 60 shaft
:cobra:  - F9 3W, 15 degree - Fukijara Atmos white tour spec stiff flex shaft

:tmade: - M2 hybrid, 19 degree
:tmade: - GAPR 3 iron - 18degree
:mizuno: MP-H5 4-5 iron, MP-25 6-8 iron, MP-5 9-PW

Miura - 1957 series k-grind - 56 degree
:bettinardi: - 52 degree
:titleist: - Scotty Cameron Newport 2 - Putter

check out my swing here

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Compare Rogue with G400 Max and G400 SFT before you buy and save $100.

If you want to eliminate that fade/slice - plenty of advice on youtube.

The swing path is a small arc - if you start out with a wide arc, you will ... slice (in general). Think of your hands as going in a tighter arc, and start squaring up the clubface before you get to the bottom of the swing

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
13 hours ago, lastings said:

Draw biased clubs are not bad and can help to fix a fade.  But, really only if that fade is created at your club face. 

It sounds to me like you are pulling your driver left and fade/slicing back to the middle.   This is created by path.   

If your fade is path driven and you buy a driver that helps close the face, you'll just end up with nasty duck hooks.   ick.  

 

fix that path.  then, if you have the path going in-to-out, and you are just leaving the club face open creating a push fade, then you might consider driver settings.  

 

 

I had a lesson this morning and he fixed my fade/slice dramatically.

My problem was that at the top of my arc of the swing I wasn't bringing the club back down quick enough compared to the turn of my body so by the time of impact my shoulders are pointing to far left so infact it wouldn't matter if the clubface was closed or not it was still going to be slicing. Hope that makes sense?


Note: This thread is 2783 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I'm not sure you're calculating the number of strokes you would need to give correctly. The way I figure it, a 6.9 index golfer playing from tees that are rated 70.8/126 would have a course handicap of 6. A 20-index golfer playing from tees that are rated 64/106 would have a course handicap of 11. Therefore, based on the example above, assuming this is the same golf course and these index & slope numbers are based on the different tees, you should only have to give 5 strokes (or one stroke on the five most difficult holes if match play) not 6. Regardless, I get your point...the average golfer has no understanding of how the system works and trying to explain it to people, who haven't bothered to read the documentation provided by either the USGA or the R&A, is hopeless. In any case, I think the WHS as it currently is, does the best job possible of leveling the playing field and I think most golfers (obviously, based on the back & forth on this thread, not all golfers) at least comprehend that.   
    • Day 115 12-5 Skills work tonight. Mostly just trying to be more aware of the shaft and where it's at. Hit foam golf balls. 
    • Day 25 (5 Dec 25) - total rain day, worked on tempo and distance control.  
    • Yes it's true in a large sample like a tournament a bunch of 20 handicaps shouldn't get 13 strokes more than you. One of them will have a day and win. But two on one, the 7 handicap is going to cover those 13 strokes the vast majority of the time. 20 handicaps are shit players. With super high variance and a very asymmetrical distribution of scores. Yes they shoot 85 every once in a while. But they shoot 110 way more often. A 7 handicap's equivalent is shooting 74 every once in a while but... 86 way more often?
    • Hi Jack.  Welcome to The Sand Trap forum.   We're glad you've joined.   There is plenty of information here.   Enjoy!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.