Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 2312 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Choosing the right ball for you does matter, but it is less important when you are starting out and it becomes more important as your game improves.

Many years ago in one of the first lessons I took, the teaching Pro told me to always play the same brand/type ball and that that advise alone will save me 2 strokes on average per round. What he meant was that by playing the same ball over time I would get accustomed to the way it reacts, especially around the greens which would translate to a few strokes less I would find on my scorecard. Now this is not to say you should not experiment a little first especially if you are just starting out. But over time you should be able to settle on a ball that feels right for you.

Now-a-days a person can get fitted for a ball, but you really shouldn't do that until you've developed some resemblance of a game. There are new balls coming out all the time and the marketing hype around them can be very confusing. So good advise from boogilicious, start with a ball that fits you budget because you will lose golf balls. As your game gets better and you settle on a brand/type you like, try staying with just it for a while, it might help and it certainly can't hurt.

   

  • Thumbs Up 1

Posted
1 hour ago, boogielicious said:

Welcome to The Sand Trap. If you are just starting out, go with the least expensive balls. Even used ball will play pretty well. Once you start playing with more confidence, then it will be time to evaluate the ball to best fit your game. 

^^ This.

I see too many new players or high hcp players using Pro v1s or other similar tour balls because they often told they are the best available.

Start off with something cheap(ish) like a 2 piece ball, things like Srixon Distance, Callaway Warbird/CXR Power or the like. When you get better and more confident then look at moving up to either a higher grade 2 piece (AD333, Q start etc.) or a mid level 3 piece.

Recycled balls (pearl/mint grade) are a good option till you get good but there are often great deals on new balls if you are willing to hunt them down.

On the other hand, if you want to play Pro V's then go for it. At then end of the day we cant tell anyone how to spend their money (not wisely anyway :-P)

Russ, from "sunny" Yorkshire = :-( 

In the bag: Driver: Ping G5 , Woods:Dunlop NZ9, 4 Hybrid: Tayormade Burner, 4-SW: Hippo Beast Bi-Metal , Wedges: Wilson 1200, Putter: Cleveland Smartsquare Blade, Ball: AD333

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Yeah, start off with the less expensive balls, and work your way up from there. 

Most beginners lose lots of balls when starting out. Better to lose a $0.50-$0.75 ball, than a $3.00-$4.00 one. 

As a golfer's swing gets better, that golfer will try different brands, and finally settle on 1 or 2 models they like. 

I have a favorite brand/model.. However, alot of that favoritism is due to the convenience of buying them. They are available just anout ever where. My reality is that I shoot the same scores regardless of what ball. I use

In My Bag:
A whole bunch of Tour Edge golf stuff...... :beer:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

@Ryan Harris

Welcome to the forum. 

Here's the thing, what golf ball you use is akin to what pizza you like or choosing your favorite beverage. There's not really a "right" answer. There are some brands of golf balls, pizza or beverages which are more popular than others. But the only way to really know what you like is to try a bunch of them. 

There will be factors in your decision including, but not limited to, how far the ball flies, how much it spins, how it feels off the clubface, how much it costs, how durable it is, if it has an alignment aid printed on it, maybe even what color it comes in. 

For the most part (there are always exceptions), the golfers I know fall into one of three categories. 

1 - The golfers who will literally play any ball. Perhaps, they play what ever lost balls they find out there.

2 - Golfers who play one "type" of golf ball. Perhaps they play a 3 piece distance ball with urethane cover. But they don't really care which brand. 

3 - Golfers who are loyal to one (maybe two) particular ball(s). They always buy the same model and brand. 

When starting out most folks just play what they can afford. As you play more and more you'll find some you like better than others for any myriad of reasons. 

My bag is an ever-changing combination of clubs. 

A mix I am forever tinkering with. 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Everyone has a different perspective... I have been playing for a number of years, but that is what I do with golf, play.  I practice at the range and putt around about 1 time a month, but I play 4 to 5 times a month.  I used to just play the least expensive ball I could find at Walmart.  Didn't matter if it was Noodle or Nitro, just cheapest.  The whole time I would shoot around 100, and occasionally mid 90's.   A few years ago, I began to play a softer ball and settled on the Callaway SuperSoft for about $20 a dozen.  They do not do everything a premium ball does for you, but at my level, I don't hit many greens in regulation and have learned to play the roll out on chips, etc.  My suggestion, find a ball you are comfortable with price wise and with the way it feels and just play it....My brother has played the Noodle for about 10 years and he shoots in the mid 80's on average...You will likely lose 4 balls a round, so do you want to $20 a round or less than $4 a round?


Posted

@Ryan Harris Welcome to TST!

There are a lot of smart people on this site filled with excellent information and knowledge on this site.  I am not one of those, but I do have an opinion.

Reconditioned or recycled golf balls are a great way to go.  There are websites such as TGW.com that always have golf balls on sale and you can find a dozen for $10.00 to $12.00.  I usually get a couple dozen Wilson Elite 50 yellow balls to start the year off with as the first couple dozen tend to disappear the fastest.  Currently on sale for $10.95/dozen.

On those Par 3s over water, yump switch out to a ball that you do not mind losing.  In fact always carry 3 to 4 balls with you that you do not mind losing no matter how good you get at golf.  There are days where nothing works except losing golf balls.  

Once again, Welcome!  Enjoy this wonderfully crazy game and utilize this site for the wealth of knowledge and insight that is available.  

 

- Dean

Driver: PXG GEN3 Proto X Mitsubishi Tensei CK Pro Orange
Fairway wood: 5 Wood PXG 0341 GEN2 hzrdus smoke yellow

2 Iron PXG XP Evenflow Blue

3 Utility Iron Srixon 3 20*
Irons:  5 thru PW PXG GEN3 XP Steelfiber 95 -  Wedges: Mizuno T7 48, 52, 56 and 60 Recoil 110 shafts 6
Putter: In search of the Holy Grail Ball: Snell MTBx

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 2312 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • For someone with a very consistent swing speed and ball strike, upgrades may improve performance. For everyday golfers, probably not. I'm a rather odd player. I usually get best performance from basic pro or tour heads, but with lighter stock shaft from the model's standard driver set up. (Yes, current EXS is an exception.) When I get a full driver fitting, I usually try a couple of modest upgrade  (not super magic) shafts. Most of the time upgrade gives a couple of extra yards, or 10 yards less. Remember this about stock shafts: They are matched to a particular driver model to fit the type of player likely to adopt that model. Also, most OEMs offer a variety of stock shafts in their drivers. Test for which one works best. And, the final decider...  
    • Uh, seeing you're having trouble with hit-and-miss performance from inherited clubs... Get Fitted! IF the 910H pair don't work, swap them out. Also, only two degrees separation in loft is not much. You might consider a 4W (much more reliable than a 3W) plus hybrid. This would give more distance separation than two Hs. For hybrid, get one you can hit... Maybe a more benevolent 4H. Quite often I try to brand match my bridge clubs (FWs and Hs), and my irons and wedges... but not always. Whatever works!
    • Like others have said, get fitted. Since 2011, I have played some combination of 4W + 7W. I had a Cobra 3H and 4H a couple of years back, and would swap out the 7W for a 3H in cold months (keep out of cold wind, and rough thinner for wayward drives.) The 7W matched up with yardage often with 3H; the current 4H goes almost as long as 7W, but has a lower trajectory. 4H also bumped out 4i in last bag redo; I learned to hit stinger with 4H so that's my driving iron on tight holes with shallow landing area. Again, a side-by-side test will tell you which way to go. If 5W or 3H is meh, keep the 7W. Also, are you looking to replace the 7W with a 5W or 3H, or add a second bridge club (5W or 3H) to your bag?
    • Makes sense and aligns with other literature. Static stretching, especially for longer durations, can impede performance in strength and power activities. I would not want to do like hamstring, quad, and calf stretches then go immediately sprint. To me that sounds like a terrible Idea. I would rather start off walking, then jogging, then running, then ramp up to sprinting.  To me, static stretching isn't even a warmup activity. I like the term warmup; you want to get some exertion going before the activity.      a { text-decoration: none; color: #464feb; } tr th, tr td { border: 1px solid #e6e6e6; } tr th { background-color: #f5f5f5; }
    • Going to Florida for the usual February golf trip, and with our current weather, that date won't get here soon enough. Heading to Augusta GA for the Tuesday Master's practice round, will definitely get some golf in while I'm in the area for a few days. Hope to be able to catch up with @coachjimsc if he's around. Then it's back to Scotland first of July.  Playing 7 new courses, can't wait for that.  Then somewhere after that is the Rhode Island CC Member-Guest and then my normal October golf trip to Myrtle Beach.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.