Jump to content
IGNORED

How consistent are the green speeds on your home course?


bones75
Note: This thread is 2414 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Can shade/wind/sun exposure really make a substantial difference in green speeds, assuming the greenskeeper is caring for all the greens in an equal fashion?  It feels like this one green on a course I play regularly is consistently about 30% slower than some others, but I'm still not sure if it's all in my head.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


1 hour ago, bones75 said:

Can shade/wind/sun exposure really make a substantial difference in green speeds, assuming the greenskeeper is caring for all the greens in an equal fashion?  It feels like this one green on a course I play regularly is consistently about 30% slower than some others, but I'm still not sure if it's all in my head.

I would think that if a portion of a green is consistently under shade, it would be slower than the rest of the green. Also, of course, the time of the day will also play a role - morning dew will stop the ball much faster. And the same goes for freshly mowed turf as well.

Here at my course in Lahore, Pakistan, the green speed is awfully slow - maybe an inconsistent six at best. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


We have some very fast greens and also some very slow greens. But it really doesn't matter as I am skilled enough to make all our greens look impossible :)

Regards

Mailman

Mailman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

6 hours ago, bones75 said:

Can shade/wind/sun exposure really make a substantial difference in green speeds, assuming the greenskeeper is caring for all the greens in an equal fashion?  It feels like this one green on a course I play regularly is consistently about 30% slower than some others, but I'm still not sure if it's all in my head.

It is hard to tell. You would need to find a stretch of green that had the exact same slope % as the other green. Then you would need to accurately roll the ball at the same speed and measure out the distance rolled.

Two greens can look similar, but have different slopes to the point that you might over or under hit your putt.

Its hard to say if what your experiencing is due to the greens keeper or not.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I play early morning, most of the greens have been mowed a few have not.  Add in the morning dew and I think the unmowed greens are about an 8 and the mowed greens (0.11" per the greenskeeper) are at about a 10.

Edited by No Mulligans
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

The greens where I play most often are pretty uniformly slow, like most municipal courses I assume. However, there are several greens with noticeably more dramatic slopes (mostly from back to front, one even has a false front where anything there will roll off the green) than other muni courses I've played on. There's definitely a difference related to "shade/wind/sun exposure" and of course after/during rain events things slow up considerably - but all these conditions are reasonably evident so we can factor them in for distance and breaks.

Edited by Midpack
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

This time of year? Not very consistent at all. I put about 30% more effort.

In the early mornings, it's even worse. I find myself using a lag putting stroke for 20 foot putts. :-P

The nice courses like Angeles, Tierra Rejada, Coyote Hills are pretty consistent. At least we have enough water to maintain them at this point. I anticipate a wetter than usual season as well. We'll see, and cross fingers about the rain.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

One redeeming feature of good ole Kittyhawk GC is that the greens are relatively consistent. Very slow mind you, which makes taking the putter on the road a bit of a challenge. Obviously, when it has been raining the greens get substantially slower, but it's a pretty predictable thing. Other than that, its just a question of how many ball marks you'll find on a given day.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

21 minutes ago, mcanadiens said:

One redeeming feature of good ole Kittyhawk GC is that the greens are relatively consistent. Very slow mind you, which makes taking the putter on the road a bit of a challenge. Obviously, when it has been raining the greens get substantially slower, but it's a pretty predictable thing. Other than that, its just a question of how many ball marks you'll find on a given day.

According to one of my playing partners who asked one of the groundskeepers, slow greens are easier to maintain and don't need someone to water the surface by hand every morning and mow a couple to a few times per week.

Either that or because you need so much putter head speed that a variation of 10% is imperceptible anyway. . .

  • Upvote 1

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 2414 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • Day 119: 4/24/24 Chipping and pitching followed by putting through 50 mm gates.
    • @boogielicious and I are definitely in for the Stay & Play and will need the extra night's stay on Friday. I don't know what the plans are for our group on Friday but even if we don't make it for dinner with the rest of the Friday arrivals, I'll be more than happy to meet up somewhere for a beer or something.
    • Taking your dispersion and distance in consideration I analyzed the 4 posible ways to play the hole, or at least the ones that were listed here. I took the brown grass on the left as fescue were you need to punch out sideways to the fairway and rigth of the car path to be fescue too.  Driver "going for the green"  You have to aim more rigth, to the bunker in order to center your shotzone in between the fescue.  Wood of 240 over the bunkers I already like this one more for you. More room to land between the fescue. Balls in the fescue 11% down from 30% with driver. Improve of score from 4.55 to 4.40. 4 iron 210 yards besides the bunkers.    Also a wide area and your shot zone is better than previous ones. This makes almost the fescue dissapear. You really need to hit a bad one (sometimes shit happens). Because of that and only having 120 yards in this is the best choice so far. Down to 4.32 from 4.40. Finally the 6 Iron 180 yards to avoid all trouble.    Wide area an narrow dispersion for almost been in the fairway all the time. Similar than the previous one but 25 yards farther for the hole to avoid been in the bunkers. Average remains the same, 4.33 to 4.32.  Conclusion is easy. Either your 4iron or 6 iron of the tee are equaly good for you. Glad that you made par!
    • Wish I could have spent 5 minutes in the middle of the morning round to hit some balls at the range. Just did much more of right side through with keeping the shoulders feeling level (not dipping), and I was flushing them. Lol. Maybe too much focus on hands stuff while playing.
    • Last year I made an excel that can easily measure with my own SG data the average score for each club of the tee. Even the difference in score if you aim more left or right with the same club. I like it because it can be tweaked to account for different kind of rough, trees, hazards, greens etc.     As an example, On Par 5's that you have fescue on both sides were you can count them as a water hazard (penalty or punch out sideways), unless 3 wood or hybrid lands in a wider area between the fescue you should always hit driver. With a shorter club you are going to hit a couple less balls in the fescue than driver but you are not going to offset the fact that 100% of the shots are going to be played 30 or more yards longer. Here is a 560 par 5. Driver distance 280 yards total, 3 wood 250, hybrid 220. Distance between fescue is 30 yards (pretty tight). Dispersion for Driver is 62 yards. 56 for 3 wood and 49 for hybrid. Aiming of course at the middle of the fairway (20 yards wide) with driver you are going to hit 34% of balls on the fescue (17% left/17% right). 48% to the fairway and the rest to the rough.  The average score is going to be around 5.14. Looking at the result with 3 wood and hybrid you are going to hit less balls in the fescue but because of having longer 2nd shots you are going to score slightly worst. 5.17 and 5.25 respectively.    Things changes when the fescue is taller and you are probably going to loose the ball so changing the penalty of hitting there playing a 3 wood or hybrid gives a better score in the hole.  Off course 30 yards between penalty hazards is way to small. You normally have 60 or more, in that cases the score is going to be more close to 5 and been the Driver the weapon of choice.  The point is to see that no matter how tight the hole is, depending on the hole sometimes Driver is the play and sometimes 6 irons is the play. Is easy to see that on easy holes, but holes like this:  you need to crunch the numbers to find the best strategy.     
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...