Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
IGNORED

Master "Forged vs. Cast" or "Blade vs. Game-Improvement" Iron Thread


Note: This thread is 2136 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Isn't that another fault as well, since it isn't a club with out a shaft. Would most casual golfers see that footnote?

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

saevel,

If you get a chance, check this out:

Maltby published a book back in 2005, The Maltby Playability Factor, 287 pages. (ISBN = 978-0927956123). In it, he describes the history of golf club design - especially irons. The book contains full-color engineering drawings of irons from the different eras, comparing their physical features. Also, it gives the MPF data lines for hundreds of models of golf irons, plus their end ratings.

The book details how the MPF is calculated. I can tell you're really interested in club design, so I thought you might find it interesting. I was lucky - found three copies on clearance a couple of years back, and bought them all for $1 each.

Here's an Amazon link for details.

http://www.amazon.com/Maltby-Playability-Factor-Book-Irons/dp/0927956128/ref=sr_1_14?s=books&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1393009162&sr;=1-14&keywords;=Ralph+Maltby+and+golf

If you don't want to buy a copy, you might be able to borrow one from a local clubsmith.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 6 months later...
Posted

saevel,

If you get a chance, check this out:

Maltby published a book back in 2005, The Maltby Playability Factor, 287 pages. (ISBN = 978-0927956123). In it, he describes the history of golf club design - especially irons. The book contains full-color engineering drawings of irons from the different eras, comparing their physical features. Also, it gives the MPF data lines for hundreds of models of golf irons, plus their end ratings.

The book details how the MPF is calculated. I can tell you're really interested in club design, so I thought you might find it interesting. I was lucky - found three copies on clearance a couple of years back, and bought them all for $1 each.

Here's an Amazon link for details.

http://www.amazon.com/Maltby-Playability-Factor-Book-Irons/dp/0927956128/ref=sr_1_14?s=books&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1393009162&sr;=1-14&keywords;=Ralph+Maltby+and+golf

If you don't want to buy a copy, you might be able to borrow one from a local clubsmith.


I think you can find it all online now...  My old cobra II's are considered a player's classic iron with a rating of 115...  Man i love those clubs and played some really good golf with them.  I would never have bought them looking at this chart...  not saying it doesn't have some truth, but be careful making judgements just based off the ratings...

JP

In the bag:  R1 Diver, Rocketballz 3 tour spoon (13*), Adams A12 pro 18* hybrid, 4-P Callaway Razr x black (dg s400 shafts), 50* & 58* Ping Tour S, and TM Ghost Manta Putter cut down to 32". and my Tour V2 Rangefinder (with extra batteries of course)!  Ball - Srixon Z Star XV

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 10 months later...
Posted
There has probably been a thread on this but I haven't seen it. Just curious to know how good of a player should you be before you start to consider playing with blade irons. I understand they are less forgiving, but I have been curious to try them. I have played cavity back all of my life. I don't know what my handicap is but I can normally shoot mid 70's at my home course (which is an easier course). Just looking for some opinions.

Posted

How much do you want to practice?

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

Spoiler

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
If you're shooting mid 70s, it seems like your already pretty good. Do you use the whole face of the club?

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

If you want to play blades don't go full set, just get 7-GW. Shooting in the seventies you must be a fairly good ball striker but I would not go full set because as they progress to the 3 iron they get harder to manage. Do not get an old set say circa 1950/60's as they are like butter knives. The modern blades is much easier to play. The main difference between blades and CB's is forgiveness.


Posted

Shooting in the mid 70s is good enough for you try blades. You have quite a few good things going on in your swing. Just go buy yourself 5 or 6 iron and give it a try. I practice sometimes with a 6i Hogan blade, and I love the feel of it when I make proper contact with the ball. I even hit the ball farther with that 6i blade compared to my 6i cavity back gamer.

Yeah, buy one club and see how it works before buying a whole set.

In My Bag:
A whole bunch of Tour Edge golf stuff...... :beer:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Anyone can go pick up blades and try them... So if you want to, do it. I played blades (MP-33) for a season in the past, and they did help me become a better ball striker as there is not as much margin for error. It was a struggle, but I'm glad I did it. However, there's a reason I switched back to cavity back irons and will likely continue to play them going forward.

Posted
Anyone can go pick up blades and try them... So if you want to, do it. I played blades (MP-33) for a season in the past, and they did help me become a better ball striker as there is not as much margin for error. It was a struggle, but I'm glad I did it. However, there's a reason I switched back to cavity back irons and will likely continue to play them going forward.

I still switch between. . .depend how serious I am about score. :-)

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

There has probably been a thread on this but I haven't seen it. Just curious to know how good of a player should you be before you start to consider playing with blade irons. I understand they are less forgiving, but I have been curious to try them. I have played cavity back all of my life. I don't know what my handicap is but I can normally shoot mid 70's at my home course (which is an easier course). Just looking for some opinions.

Define "blades" because there aren't many true "blades" out there today.   If you're shooting in mid 70's you likely have a good consistent swing and wouldn't be hurt by playing something like a Titleist 714MB.  The real question is what do you expect to gain from playing "blades"?

Joe Paradiso

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

A number of pros use forged cavity backs for their long and mid irons and blades for their short irons these days. Something to keep in mind. If you're playing well with your clubs why change?

And like @newtogolf implied, many companies have their pro lines as a CB/set from 3-7 or 8 iron and go muscleback from 8 or 9 iron - PW only. Unless you buy their full muscleback set, and I think only a few companies make those like Mizuno.

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

Spoiler

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Administrator
Posted

Musclebacks =/= Blades, amirite?


No. They're pretty much the same.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Hi Everyone,

I'll soon be in the market for a new set of irons. Still in the preliminary research process, but the thought of new irons makes me excited. I'm ok with last year's (or a few years back) brands, as I know it will save me a lot of money. I have a question about "blade" irons and "normal" irons.

Are blades a club designed for the more consistent golfer? As in someone who can regularly shoot between 5-10 over or better? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've heard they are a bit more difficult to hit considering the smaller "sweet spot". Are there any advantages to them besides being less clunky? Do they add distance or easier to shape the ball (depending on if you have a solid swing already)?

Any information would be much appreciated!


Posted

Are blades a club designed for the more consistent golfer? As in someone who can regularly shoot between 5-10 over or better? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've heard they are a bit more difficult to hit considering the smaller "sweet spot". Are there any advantages to them besides being less clunky? Do they add distance or easier to shape the ball (depending on if you have a solid swing already)?

If you are talking irons like this, then I'd say they would probably be good for a single digit or lower. It depend on the golfer's comfort level.

Image result for Titleist MB

As for advantages,

They tend to produce better launch conditions for better players who tend to have higher swing speeds. They tend to have less offset which can tend to be visually more appealing towards better players. They tend to have better feel. I think lower handicap players tend to like the look of blade style irons. The better I gotten the smaller I like the clubs to look.

I do believe that they produce slightly more consistent launch conditions for better players because the sweet spot is smaller. I think a larger sweet spot can cause a slight mishit to feel normal and that might make it tougher to find the actual sweet spot consistently. I am not sure how reliable launch conditions are off of thinner face, game improvement irons.

As for shaping the ball, you can curve both game improvement irons and blade irons.

There are a lot of good clubs that have blade style looks, but fit in some GI tech to help better players who are not scratch golfers.

Ping I-series are good

Mizuno MP-H5 or MP-54

Titleist AP2's

Mizuno JPX-Pro

Cobra Fly-Z+

These would be clubs that fit that mid to high single digit handicap area that look really good.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

That's some solid information, I really do appreciate it. Does anyone know the preference of pros? Or is it just that, preference. Meaning they will use whatever they feel works best for them. Or will blades always work best for them because they can consistently strike the ball the way they want?

BTW, checked out some of those clubs, woowee they're gorgeous. I really like the minimalist approach to blades. Now to see if I can actually hit them.


Note: This thread is 2136 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Only two things I'd worry about a little right now (though this is without seeing face-on views… you know better!) Stop extending the right knee so much. Hands have to move a bit more aggressively "away" (from the target and ball), perhaps with some forearm twisting clockwise from your POV, to start the downswing.
    • I haven’t posted a video in quite a while (or practiced for that matter) due to some health issues. I was able to get a couple of down-the-line videos today at the range. Still have a bit of the same issues, but it’s playable while I work on the swing. I apologize for the construction noise. I do notice my rehearsal swing has higher hands than my final swing. I’ll try to get some face on swings at my home setup in the near future.    
    • Golfers want consistency. It begins with consistency of: recording your swing often putting the camera in the same place with the same angles, height, etc. focusing on one thing when you do look at the camera
    • A good video on why measuring your swing, like with a GEARS system, is key to really figuring out what is going on in the swing.  One thing I didn't know, or didn't put two and two together, that the lens on your camera can impact how you view your swing using video. The part where they show the swing stopped, all three images are the same position of the same swing, but with different lenses on the camera shocked me a bit.  If you are going to use a camera, just realize it has limitations, and the importance to use the same camera with the same camera set up as much as possible for consistency. 
    • Thanks. I hope I do but I think I'm going to get stuck at 98 as two of the remainder tracks are notoriously difficult get on.   I have Turnberry, Troon, Skibo Castle, Ardfin and Crail Craighead left. I have a round at Turnberry booked in for later this year. Troon is accessible but the green fee is extortionate (compared to what we are used to) so I may go for that in 2027. Crail Craighead is easy enough through member guest sign on's so won't be an issue.  Skibo Castle is a private, exclusive members club who do not allow guests at all full stop. You have to know a member, who are very rare and secretive (often celebrities, like Harry Styles or other worldwide business types for example, who are supposedly members). So it is basically impossible and I am likely to be stuck with this one. Ardfin whilst bookable for the average joe - is bordering on extortion and I'm not sure I'll ever be able to afford it. You have to stay over at their 'hotel' and you have to book it out for X amount of people for at least two days and it costs upwards of 15-20k. Even if you divide that by say 12 players it's still far too much money unfortunately. With a bit of luck at somepoint in the future they may introduce a day rate, they had one a few years ago for 500 (GBP).  Fingers crossed however. I managed to get on the exclusive Loch Lomond easier than I thought it would be!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.