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Posted

I know this isn't a satisfying answer, but it's a bit of both.

Stretch.

"In the process of trial and error, our failed attempts are meant to destroy arrogance and provoke humility." -- Master Jin Kwon

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Posted

Hitting or swinging is a good question.  When it first came out I was told it was hitting now seems that logic has changed.  Angled hinge or half roll is what they prescribe unless this has also changed and that is usually associated with hitting but, doesn't mean you have to be hitting to angle hinge

Driver: Titleist 915 D3
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Posted

Interesting note in this month's GD from Baddeley, as he indicates that with S&T he felt like he was stuck with only one shot shape.....

For the S&T guys out there, is this legitimate -- can you play an effective fade/cut with the S&T mechanics.  If so, why couldn't Bads??

"Getting paired with you is the equivalent to a two-stroke penalty to your playing competitors"  -- Sean O'Hair to Rory Sabbatini (Zurich Classic, 2011)


Posted

Push draw is the stock shot but, doesn't mean you can't hit different shots by adjusting ball position.  I hit a push cut with the driver and a push draw with the irons.  Pull cuts are different for sure but, doesn't mean you still can't hit them with the pattern.

Driver: Titleist 915 D3
3 wood: 15 Callaway X Hot pro
Hybrids:  18 Callaway X Hot Pro
Irons: 4-GW Callaway Apex
project x 6.0
Wedges: 54 , 58 Callaway
Putter: 2 ball
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Posted

The S&T DVDs teach you hot to hit both shots and using their principles, I can hit both shots not 100% but pretty consistent.  I naturally hit a fade and I am Right-Handed.  Only with S&T was I able to hit a draw or a slightly left push   IMO S&T favors a slight draw to begin with so everything they teach leans in that direction.  To hit a fade do the opposite as they teach.


Posted

I frankly believe that S&T is a perfect recipe for slices and pushes to the right.

This method is no good for a standard weekend golfer like me. To use S&T to some successful degree requires exaggerated hands action at the impact in a vain effort to square the face of the club. As I understand it this action is required and caused by sliding of the lower part of the body, which in turn leaves the club face behind causing it to hit horrible, glanced, weak slice or in a best case a paralytic push to the right.

Perhaps natural ‘hookers’ of the ball will embrace this method, but how many natural hookers of the golf ball is there?


Posted

I would probably read a little more on the subject before posting to be honest, as everything you have said to dismiss the pattern is the opposite of whats taught, and opposite of the results that pretty much everyone sees

Originally Posted by Jooma

I frankly believe that S&T is a perfect recipe for slices and pushes to the right.

This method is no good for a standard weekend golfer like me. To use S&T to some successful degree requires exaggerated hands action at the impact in a vain effort to square the face of the club. As I understand it this action is required and caused by sliding of the lower part of the body, which in turn leaves the club face behind causing it to hit horrible, glanced, weak slice or in a best case a paralytic push to the right.

Perhaps natural ‘hookers’ of the ball will embrace this method, but how many natural hookers of the golf ball is there?



:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style


Posted


S&T is a draw pattern. Done correctly your stock shot is a push draw. You need to do some research mate.

Quote:

I frankly believe that S&T is a perfect recipe for slices and pushes to the right.

This method is no good for a standard weekend golfer like me. To use S&T to some successful degree requires exaggerated hands action at the impact in a vain effort to square the face of the club. As I understand it this action is required and caused by sliding of the lower part of the body, which in turn leaves the club face behind causing it to hit horrible, glanced, weak slice or in a best case a paralytic push to the right.

Perhaps natural ‘hookers’ of the ball will embrace this method, but how many natural hookers of the golf ball is there?



Driver: Taylormade R11 set to 8*
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Posted
I've tried hitting a cut with the irons, but it usually ends in a push. It's easier with hybrid, woods and driver, but my hands always want to square up the irons. I sometimes miss with a push, but almost never a cut. I used to hit a big slice, but now I can hardly hit a cut. The driver is straight or a small fade.

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Posted

Originally Posted by Jooma

I frankly believe that S&T is a perfect recipe for slices and pushes to the right.

This method is no good for a standard weekend golfer like me. To use S&T to some successful degree requires exaggerated hands action at the impact in a vain effort to square the face of the club. As I understand it this action is required and caused by sliding of the lower part of the body, which in turn leaves the club face behind causing it to hit horrible, glanced, weak slice or in a best case a paralytic push to the right.

Perhaps natural ‘hookers’ of the ball will embrace this method, but how many natural hookers of the golf ball is there?


Here's a guess. Tell me if I'm right...

You "tried" S&T on your own one time on the range. It didn't go so well, and you deduced that because you're just a weekend golfer, it'd require too much effort to "get."

Right?

The problem with that approach is that you invariably did some things improperly. If it feels handsy, you're doing it wrong. S&T requires less hand action than a lot of swings (angled hinging versus more of a horizontal hinging action for those who know those terms).

Others have spoken but I'll add this: any student of ours who wants to draw the ball draws the ball. We'll teach a fade to those who want it, but correcting a slice is virtually the easiest thing to do.

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Posted


agreed & I can prove it (at least to myself) ... I went from a typical slicer to a draw by incorporating S&T principles.

Originally Posted by michaeljames92

S&T is a draw pattern. Done correctly your stock shot is a push draw. You need to do some research mate.

Quote:



John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Posted


Originally Posted by carpediem4300

I would probably read a little more on the subject before posting to be honest, as everything you have said to dismiss the pattern is the opposite of whats taught, and opposite of the results that pretty much everyone sees

I would probably read a little more on the subject before posting to be honest, as everything you have said to dismiss the pattern is the opposite of whats taught, and opposite of the results that pretty much everyone sees

Originally Posted by Jooma

I frankly believe that S&T is a perfect recipe for slices and pushes to the right.

This method is no good for a standard weekend golfer like me. To use S&T to some successful degree requires exaggerated hands action at the impact in a vain effort to square the face of the club. As I understand it this action is required and caused by sliding of the lower part of the body, which in turn leaves the club face behind causing it to hit horrible, glanced, weak slice or in a best case a paralytic push to the right.

Perhaps natural ‘hookers’ of the ball will embrace this method, but how many natural hookers of the golf ball is there?


I agree with Carpediem, I watched all the videos and nowhere did I see any mention of hands, let alone exaggerrated hands.  Also, I found no mention of sliding lower body, the teach weight forward, period.   I am a weekend golfer as well.


Posted

Currently the hip slide/bump is one of the hardest things for me to get down in S&T.; Especially when I'm warmed up and looking to hit the ball harder, I will default to my old swing and instantly turn my hips rather than sliding, which ends up forcing my body to cut across the ball.

To help this, I've been working very hard on keeping my right heel on the ground and not allowing my right foot to go to the toe. My end position looks more like a rolling of the right foot. So far this looks like it helps me from turning my hips too quickly and allows me to slide them instead.

Driver: :tmade: R11 9.0 - Bassara Griffin UL - Tour Stiff 3-wood: :tmade: R11 Ti 15.0 - JAVLNFX M6 - Stiff Hybrid: :tmade: Rescue Hybrid - JAVLNFX Hybrid - Stiff 4-PW: :mizuno: JPX 800 PRO - Nippon 1150 GH Tour - Stiff Wedges: :edel: 50/56/60 - Nippon WV 125 Putter/Ball/RF: :edel: / :bridgestone: B330 / :leupold: GX-3i


Posted

Amen,

To back up what others are saying, i switched from a reg swing to a S&T focused swing and the outcome?

1) - Slice has gone

2) - Shanks have gone

3) - i draw every club

4) - I take divots on every iron shot
5) - ive gone from a 28 handicap to a 17.2 in just under 2 months

Im not a S&T fanboy just "bigging it up" either, ive tried it and it worked, i can make a regular swing work if i want, but alot less consistently

Originally Posted by jwalker497

I would probably read a little more on the subject before posting to be honest, as everything you have said to dismiss the pattern is the opposite of whats taught, and opposite of the results that pretty much everyone sees

I agree with Carpediem, I watched all the videos and nowhere did I see any mention of hands, let alone exaggerrated hands.  Also, I found no mention of sliding lower body, the teach weight forward, period.   I am a weekend golfer as well.



:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style


Posted

the feel i tried for was to roll or bank the foot on the ball of my foot, this keeps my momentum going forward int he lower part of the body but helps eliminate the over turn of the hips

naturally it will come up at final position for balance etc, but as you i avoid going onto the toes at all costs

(As a reference watch phil mickleson's back foot on his downswing, it banks on the ball ;) )

Originally Posted by Precis1on

Currently the hip slide/bump is one of the hardest things for me to get down in S&T.; Especially when I'm warmed up and looking to hit the ball harder, I will default to my old swing and instantly turn my hips rather than sliding, which ends up forcing my body to cut across the ball.

To help this, I've been working very hard on keeping my right heel on the ground and not allowing my right foot to go to the toe. My end position looks more like a rolling of the right foot. So far this looks like it helps me from turning my hips too quickly and allows me to slide them instead.



:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style


Posted

Getting to figuring out the backswing now.

I felt like it was going all over the place for a while, until I saw the http://thesandtrap.com/t/30325/deep-hands-explained thread. Getting my hands deep gets my hands to the right place.

I'm getting to feeling the "mechanical"  part of the S&T pattern. Hopefully, I will get to something that feels natural eventually, but for now, I go for my checkpoints.

Driver: :tmade: R11 9.0 - Bassara Griffin UL - Tour Stiff 3-wood: :tmade: R11 Ti 15.0 - JAVLNFX M6 - Stiff Hybrid: :tmade: Rescue Hybrid - JAVLNFX Hybrid - Stiff 4-PW: :mizuno: JPX 800 PRO - Nippon 1150 GH Tour - Stiff Wedges: :edel: 50/56/60 - Nippon WV 125 Putter/Ball/RF: :edel: / :bridgestone: B330 / :leupold: GX-3i


Posted

I have been enjoying learning about and implementing this swing.  Two of the components I have been unsure about are the hip slide and pushing off the ground on the downswing.  I understand the theoretical imperatives, but how do you get a feel for the rate of moving your hips forward and pushing off of the ground ?  Especially with pushing off, it seems to be on a knife's edge.  If you push off too quickly you can top the ball; not quickly enough and you can hit it fat.

I appreciate any help.


Posted

dont try to hit it to hard

when i try and hit it to hard then what you mentioned happens, i either fire my hips to early and top it, or swing to quick and forget to fire my hips and hit it fat,

a nice tempo swing works best until your get confident to start speeding up

Originally Posted by Green

I have been enjoying learning about and implementing this swing.  Two of the components I have been unsure about are the hip slide and pushing off the ground on the downswing.  I understand the theoretical imperatives, but how do you get a feel for the rate of moving your hips forward and pushing off of the ground?  Especially with pushing off, it seems to be on a knife's edge.  If you push off too quickly you can top the ball; not quickly enough and you can hit it fat.

I appreciate any help.



:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style


Note: This thread is 1036 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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