This is the difference between my pitch and my chip; a pitch in my game is a smaller, gentler iron swing (takeback is only to between 9 and 12 o' clock instead of to 2-3 o' clock), and it's something I've only recently been able to hit cleanly, to say nothing of dropping it where I want it especially at very short range. If I'm inside 10 yards from the edge of the green, I'll just take a club that will roll out the distance I want afterward (somewhere between a 7 and a gap) and give it a stiff-armed, stiff-wristed bump to set it on the green and let it run out from there.
As far as rollout distance, it depends on the club and you really just have to try em out. Bring your bag to the chipping green and start with your highest-lofted club. Start about 3-5 yards off the green and aim for the edge, then see how much further past the edge the ball rolls. Take notes (mentally or on paper); this carry-to-rollout ratio will be similar for just about any strength of swing with this style of chipping. So, when you get to the course, estimate how many clublengths it is from your lie to the green, and then how many clublengths more to the hole, choose your club accordingly, and then aim for the edge of the green. This works until you have to carry a longer distance than you can roll out, at which point you switch to the pitch shot to drop it where you want it.
Great set of clubs but elbow issues have forced me to go with some graphite in my irons. Sad to let them go but I don't foresee myself playing steel again for at least a year. Clubs are standard L/L/L and the grips are practically new. 6-3 iron have very little use since I used them as a combo set with some MP-H4s (also for sale). Some bag chatter and small dings here and there as you'd expect from a soft forged iron. Asking $500 shipped.
I will always believe, if fitted properly, it is the golfer's swing that makes any club work well for them. Cheap, or expensive, it does not matter. Some clubs might be of better quality than others, but that's about it.
Many years ago, I took a group lesson from a pga instructor. Someone in the group ask the instructor if he was any good. He proceeded to hit balls with clubs from our different individual bags like they were custom fitted to him. He told us, that all he did was make a grip adjustment to offset any difference in our clubs's different lie angles. It did not matter what the brand name on the club was. All the balls he hit, went towards his intended target, at the correct distances. His own swing sent the ball flying. This was the only thing I took away from this lesson. The next night there was a different pga instructor, which is another story.
And fast greens can be near impossible to get the ball close on down hill putts, the margin of distance error is really thin. On my most recent round I had a 60 foot downhill putt that I hit 90 feet and right off the green, I went fringe to fringe. Ended up with 4 putts and the greens were not that fast.
I think it also depends on green conditions too. Firmer greens with significant contour can tend to knock even a steeply descending ball with lower spin far from the landing spot due to the extra energy from the height being deflected laterally by the slope angle at the landing spot (unless the slope acts as a backstop).
A lower trajectory 2-hop & stop shot with lots of spin may tend to hold more contoured, firmer greens better as they meet the slope at a shallower angle with less vertical speed reducing chances for lateral deflection due to the slope angle. The surface friction from spin opposing the horizontal speed of the ball is what holds the ball near the landing spot. If the green is relatively flat then height usually helps even if the greens are firm.