Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 3436 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

I feel like a posting machine with so many questions. 

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts about drivers with draw bias on them. I have an Adams Blue driver. I have been working on my swing path real hard and I feel like it is getting better. My question is should I upgrade from a game improvement driver to a neutral driver ... if yes which one suits a newbie player that is worried about being hurt by a draw bias club and does not want to rely on on a game improvement club to make me better. 


Posted
2 minutes ago, Osnola said:

What issues are you currently having with your Adams Blue?

 

Too be honest I beat my slice but I am more worried that it is leading to some hooks because it wants to close to fast. My newer swing involves I slightly closed club face and I worry a draw biased driver will increase the problem. I also don't want to rely on help, I want my swing to be all mine and no band aid. 


  • Moderator
Posted

Draw-biased drivers usually create the draw by closing the face more at address and/or shifting the CoG more towards the heel so you get more toe gear effect draw spin. I'm not big on the GI label, as I feel everyone should play the equipment that fits them best without being influenced by labels, but I don't like draw-biased clubs.

If you are serious about your game and want to improve, I would go with a neutral driver. This way you can get better at hitting the ceter of the face and not have to worry about whether it was your swing or the club that caused the curve.

You can always get an adjustable driver and adjust it as your tendencies change. Either way, you should see a good clubfitter to find what is best for you. 

  • Upvote 1

Bill

“By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.” - Confucius

My Swing Thread

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Moderator
Posted
12 hours ago, Das_onionknight said:

Too be honest I beat my slice but I am more worried that it is leading to some hooks because it wants to close to fast. My newer swing involves I slightly closed club face and I worry a draw biased driver will increase the problem. I also don't want to rely on help, I want my swing to be all mine and no band aid. 

I agree with @billchao. As you improve, the draw bias may cause issues. I would recommend hitting a lot of drivers at the store over a few weeks to get an idea of what may work better for you. Used drivers are a great option too. This also gives you a great excuse to go to your local golf shop!

Scott

Titleist, Edel, Scotty Cameron Putter, Snell - AimPoint - Evolvr - MirrorVision

My Swing Thread

boogielicious - Adjective describing the perfect surf wave

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I love Titleist drivers. They are very neutral and also they are 45" shaft length which gives you a bit more control because most other brands are usually 45.75" or 46" in length.


Posted

You might want to try hitting fades with your draw-bias driver.  Each minute on the clock is 6 degrees.  Set the face at 12:02 (open 12 degrees) and make a normal pass.  That will give you some idea of how biased your biased driver is...and a basis for comparison with other clubs.  If you can fade a draw-bias driver; your game is not dependent on a game-improvement club.  Plus...it's fun to see what you can do with what you have.  

In der bag:
Cleveland Hi-Bore driver, Maltby 5 wood, Maltby hybrid, Maltby irons and wedges (23 to 50) Vokey 59/07, Cleveland Niblick (LH-42), and a Maltby mallet putter.                                                                                                                                                 "When the going gets tough...it's tough to get going."

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I have an XR16 driver that is normally set @ 9.5 * & neutral. I have tried the driver on draw bias and failed every time. When I get to the top of my swing and onward it just feels like the face is totally closed and the results are very negative. Once I put it back to the neutral setting everything is fine. As mentioned by others I think a neutral bias is what everybody should strive to use. We should learn to draw or fade the ball by proven methods rather than having a closed face driver.

Thomas Gralinski, 2458080

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Hey, I use a strong grip with a cupped wrist at the top of my backswing and open stance (like Freddy Couples). It's how I get that extra distance. Normally I hit a little fade. If I catch it a little toward the toe, I'll get a slight draw. But if I don't uncup my wrist I can slice any driver into the next county, draw bias or not. 

I play with a neutral biased driver - the 2014 Big Bertha in my avatar. I love Callaway drivers. I think they make the best drivers. I'd recommend the XR16.

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

Spoiler

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
On 26/06/2016 at 5:22 PM, Piz said:

You might want to try hitting fades with your draw-bias driver.  Each minute on the clock is 6 degrees.  Set the face at 12:02 (open 12 degrees) and make a normal pass.  That will give you some idea of how biased your biased driver is...and a basis for comparison with other clubs.  If you can fade a draw-bias driver; your game is not dependent on a game-improvement club.  Plus...it's fun to see what you can do with what you have.  

I can hit fades like nobody's business. I am starting to feel like the fade is my stock shot. I would just like to be able to shape my shot to play and plan a course. But I feel like the draw bias driver stops me from shapING shots properly. 


  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My new used Callaway X2 Hot has a neutral/draw adjustment, as do many clubs. Help if you want it, none if you don't. I like it so far.

- adam -

Routine: work, eat, golf, sleep, repeat

Clubs: (All Used TaylorMade) Burner Superfast Driver, JetSpeed 3&5 FW, Rescue Hybrid, Burner 2.0 Irons 5-AW, ATV Wedge 56*, White Ghost blade putter


Posted

I have a Cobra Bio Cell driver that has the draw settings on it. I was having a problem earlier this year where I was worm burning every drive. I had the loft set at 10.5  with no draw. I changed it to 11.5 with the draw setting on. That did nothing for me. I ended up having the ball teed up too close to the middle of my stance. I still use the driver at 11.5 with a draw and I hit it a fade or straight ball every time. I've been needing to go to the range and change the settings back and see if it makes a difference.


Posted

If you hit fades as your normal shot with a draw biased driver, I'm not sure what shaping you are looking for that may not accentuate going further right at times.

That said, most adjustable loft drivers are only adjusting the face angle and not really the lost.  At 10.5* in neutral, it will merely close the face at an 11.5* setting with no loft added what-so-ever.  Now if you turn the club to square it back to neutral, you will get more loft.  So in theory you can get an adjustable driver and change the face angle from neutral to closed to open.  That might help you so you can adjust it to neutral as your swing improves.

Here is a good source that explains this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aj5KOk2oXU0

John

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
15 minutes ago, 70sSanO said:

If you hit fades as your normal shot with a draw biased driver, I'm not sure what shaping you are looking for that may not accentuate going further right at times.

That said, most adjustable loft drivers are only adjusting the face angle and not really the lost.  At 10.5* in neutral, it will merely close the face at an 11.5* setting with no loft added what-so-ever.  Now if you turn the club to square it back to neutral, you will get more loft.  So in theory you can get an adjustable driver and change the face angle from neutral to closed to open.  That might help you so you can adjust it to neutral as your swing improves.

Here is a good source that explains this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aj5KOk2oXU0

John

Good information. I don't have a problem with my fade. I just thought I'd throw my input in about my experience with draw bias. When I used to hit 10.5* no draw setting it seemed to have an identical shape to what I hit now with 11.5* draw setting on.


Posted

this is not professional advice but I've played numerous adjustable drivers (almost all of which were from the used section in a golf store). If you enjoy tinkering, they're great but you can also enter a deep dark hole of time wasted on adjusting settings rather than a swing.  I would suggest a neutral driver or adjustable club.  Find a golfstore where you can test a few different clubs... hit 10+ shots with each, switching back and forth every couple shots.  


Posted
On 14/07/2016 at 0:24 AM, zero said:

My new used Callaway X2 Hot has a neutral/draw adjustment, as do many clubs. Help if you want it, none if you don't. I like it so far.

Great driver - I still use it, just try to get the shaft cut down an inch and a half to give you more control over the face :-)

As for draw biased drivers, I'd go with what everyone else is saying really - try to get an adjustable one and play around with it a bit. Long term, work on what there is in your swing that is causing the issue as anything spin related is just magnified with a driver.

Currently focusing on: Key 4 - shorter backswing.

What's in the bag: Callaway X2 Hot Driver, Titleist 915F 3 wood, X2 Hot 3 Hybrid, 3, 5-AW Apex Pro irons, 54*, 58* Cleveland RTX, Odyssey Versa 1 Putter

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/18/2016 at 10:56 AM, b101 said:

Great driver - I still use it, just try to get the shaft cut down an inch and a half to give you more control over the face :-)

As for draw biased drivers, I'd go with what everyone else is saying really - try to get an adjustable one and play around with it a bit. Long term, work on what there is in your swing that is causing the issue as anything spin related is just magnified with a driver.

I cut down my last one so I'm thinking about it with the X2 Hot... but it's new and pretty. What about altered swing weight, etc? I hate to mess with the meticulous work that they've engineered.

- adam -

Routine: work, eat, golf, sleep, repeat

Clubs: (All Used TaylorMade) Burner Superfast Driver, JetSpeed 3&5 FW, Rescue Hybrid, Burner 2.0 Irons 5-AW, ATV Wedge 56*, White Ghost blade putter


Note: This thread is 3436 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 1: 2025.12.26 Worked on LH position on grip, trying to keep fingers closer to perpendicular to the club. Feels awkward but change is meant to.
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. This prevents the trail side from gaining depth, as is needed to keep the pelvis center from thrusting toward the ball. Most of the "early extension" (thrust) that I see occurs during the backswing. Encourages Early Extension (Thrust) Patterns When you've thrust and turned around the trail hip joint in the backswing, you often thrust a bit more in the downswing as the direction your pelvis is oriented is forward and "out" (to the right for a righty). Your trail leg can abduct to push you forward, but "forward" when your pelvis is turned like that is in the "thrust" direction. Additionally, the trail knee "breaking" again at the start of the downswing often jumps the trail hip out toward the ball a bit too much or too quickly. While the trail hip does move in that direction, if it's too fast or too much, it can prevent the lead side hip from getting "back" at the right rate, or at a rate commensurate with the trail hip to keep the pelvis center from thrusting. Disrupts the Pressure Shift/Transition When the trail leg extends too much, it often can't "push" forward normally. The forward push begins much earlier than forward motion begins — pushing forward begins as early as about P1.5 to P2 in the swings of most good golfers. It can push forward by abducting, again, but that's a weaker movement that shoves the pelvis forward (toward the target) and turns it more than it generally should (see the next point). Limits Internal Rotation of the Trail Hip Internal rotation of the trail hip is a sort of "limiter" on the backswing. I have seen many golfers on GEARS whose trail knee extends, whose pelvis shifts forward (toward the target), and who turn over 50°, 60°, and rarely but not never, over 70° in the backswing. If you turn 60° in the backswing, it's going to be almost impossible to get "open enough" in the downswing to arrive at a good impact position. Swaying/Lateral Motion Occasionally a golfer who extends the trail knee too much will shift back too far, but more often the issue is that the golfer will shift forward too early in the backswing (sometimes even immediately to begin the backswing), leaving them "stuck forward" to begin the downswing. They'll push forward, stop, and have to restart around P4, disrupting the smooth sequence often seen in the game's best players. Other Bits… Reduces ground reaction force potential, compromises spine inclination and posture, makes transition sequencing harder, increases stress on the trail knee and lower back… In short… It's not athletic. We don't do many athletic things with "straight" or very extended legs (unless it's the end of the action, like a jump or a big push off like a step in a running motion).
    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.