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Driver with draw bias


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I feel like a posting machine with so many questions. 

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts about drivers with draw bias on them. I have an Adams Blue driver. I have been working on my swing path real hard and I feel like it is getting better. My question is should I upgrade from a game improvement driver to a neutral driver ... if yes which one suits a newbie player that is worried about being hurt by a draw bias club and does not want to rely on on a game improvement club to make me better. 

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2 minutes ago, Osnola said:

What issues are you currently having with your Adams Blue?

 

Too be honest I beat my slice but I am more worried that it is leading to some hooks because it wants to close to fast. My newer swing involves I slightly closed club face and I worry a draw biased driver will increase the problem. I also don't want to rely on help, I want my swing to be all mine and no band aid. 

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Draw-biased drivers usually create the draw by closing the face more at address and/or shifting the CoG more towards the heel so you get more toe gear effect draw spin. I'm not big on the GI label, as I feel everyone should play the equipment that fits them best without being influenced by labels, but I don't like draw-biased clubs.

If you are serious about your game and want to improve, I would go with a neutral driver. This way you can get better at hitting the ceter of the face and not have to worry about whether it was your swing or the club that caused the curve.

You can always get an adjustable driver and adjust it as your tendencies change. Either way, you should see a good clubfitter to find what is best for you. 

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Bill

“By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.” - Confucius

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12 hours ago, Das_onionknight said:

Too be honest I beat my slice but I am more worried that it is leading to some hooks because it wants to close to fast. My newer swing involves I slightly closed club face and I worry a draw biased driver will increase the problem. I also don't want to rely on help, I want my swing to be all mine and no band aid. 

I agree with @billchao. As you improve, the draw bias may cause issues. I would recommend hitting a lot of drivers at the store over a few weeks to get an idea of what may work better for you. Used drivers are a great option too. This also gives you a great excuse to go to your local golf shop!

Scott

Titleist, Edel, Scotty Cameron Putter, Snell - AimPoint - Evolvr - MirrorVision

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I love Titleist drivers. They are very neutral and also they are 45" shaft length which gives you a bit more control because most other brands are usually 45.75" or 46" in length.

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You might want to try hitting fades with your draw-bias driver.  Each minute on the clock is 6 degrees.  Set the face at 12:02 (open 12 degrees) and make a normal pass.  That will give you some idea of how biased your biased driver is...and a basis for comparison with other clubs.  If you can fade a draw-bias driver; your game is not dependent on a game-improvement club.  Plus...it's fun to see what you can do with what you have.  

In der bag:
Cleveland Hi-Bore driver, Maltby 5 wood, Maltby hybrid, Maltby irons and wedges (23 to 50) Vokey 59/07, Cleveland Niblick (LH-42), and a Maltby mallet putter.                                                                                                                                                 "When the going gets tough...it's tough to get going."

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I have an XR16 driver that is normally set @ 9.5 * & neutral. I have tried the driver on draw bias and failed every time. When I get to the top of my swing and onward it just feels like the face is totally closed and the results are very negative. Once I put it back to the neutral setting everything is fine. As mentioned by others I think a neutral bias is what everybody should strive to use. We should learn to draw or fade the ball by proven methods rather than having a closed face driver.

Thomas Gralinski, 2458080

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Hey, I use a strong grip with a cupped wrist at the top of my backswing and open stance (like Freddy Couples). It's how I get that extra distance. Normally I hit a little fade. If I catch it a little toward the toe, I'll get a slight draw. But if I don't uncup my wrist I can slice any driver into the next county, draw bias or not. 

I play with a neutral biased driver - the 2014 Big Bertha in my avatar. I love Callaway drivers. I think they make the best drivers. I'd recommend the XR16.

Julia

:callaway:  :cobra:    :seemore:  :bushnell:  :clicgear:  :adidas:  :footjoy:

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Driver: Callaway Big Bertha w/ Fubuki Z50 R 44.5"
FW: Cobra BiO CELL 14.5 degree; 
Hybrids: Cobra BiO CELL 22.5 degree Project X R-flex
Irons: Cobra BiO CELL 5 - GW Project X R-Flex
Wedges: Cobra BiO CELL SW, Fly-Z LW, 64* Callaway PM Grind.
Putter: 48" Odyssey Dart

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On 26/06/2016 at 5:22 PM, Piz said:

You might want to try hitting fades with your draw-bias driver.  Each minute on the clock is 6 degrees.  Set the face at 12:02 (open 12 degrees) and make a normal pass.  That will give you some idea of how biased your biased driver is...and a basis for comparison with other clubs.  If you can fade a draw-bias driver; your game is not dependent on a game-improvement club.  Plus...it's fun to see what you can do with what you have.  

I can hit fades like nobody's business. I am starting to feel like the fade is my stock shot. I would just like to be able to shape my shot to play and plan a course. But I feel like the draw bias driver stops me from shapING shots properly. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

My new used Callaway X2 Hot has a neutral/draw adjustment, as do many clubs. Help if you want it, none if you don't. I like it so far.

- adam -

Routine: work, eat, golf, sleep, repeat

Clubs: (All Used TaylorMade) Burner Superfast Driver, JetSpeed 3&5 FW, Rescue Hybrid, Burner 2.0 Irons 5-AW, ATV Wedge 56*, White Ghost blade putter

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I have a Cobra Bio Cell driver that has the draw settings on it. I was having a problem earlier this year where I was worm burning every drive. I had the loft set at 10.5  with no draw. I changed it to 11.5 with the draw setting on. That did nothing for me. I ended up having the ball teed up too close to the middle of my stance. I still use the driver at 11.5 with a draw and I hit it a fade or straight ball every time. I've been needing to go to the range and change the settings back and see if it makes a difference.

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If you hit fades as your normal shot with a draw biased driver, I'm not sure what shaping you are looking for that may not accentuate going further right at times.

That said, most adjustable loft drivers are only adjusting the face angle and not really the lost.  At 10.5* in neutral, it will merely close the face at an 11.5* setting with no loft added what-so-ever.  Now if you turn the club to square it back to neutral, you will get more loft.  So in theory you can get an adjustable driver and change the face angle from neutral to closed to open.  That might help you so you can adjust it to neutral as your swing improves.

Here is a good source that explains this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aj5KOk2oXU0

John

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15 minutes ago, 70sSanO said:

If you hit fades as your normal shot with a draw biased driver, I'm not sure what shaping you are looking for that may not accentuate going further right at times.

That said, most adjustable loft drivers are only adjusting the face angle and not really the lost.  At 10.5* in neutral, it will merely close the face at an 11.5* setting with no loft added what-so-ever.  Now if you turn the club to square it back to neutral, you will get more loft.  So in theory you can get an adjustable driver and change the face angle from neutral to closed to open.  That might help you so you can adjust it to neutral as your swing improves.

Here is a good source that explains this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aj5KOk2oXU0

John

Good information. I don't have a problem with my fade. I just thought I'd throw my input in about my experience with draw bias. When I used to hit 10.5* no draw setting it seemed to have an identical shape to what I hit now with 11.5* draw setting on.

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this is not professional advice but I've played numerous adjustable drivers (almost all of which were from the used section in a golf store). If you enjoy tinkering, they're great but you can also enter a deep dark hole of time wasted on adjusting settings rather than a swing.  I would suggest a neutral driver or adjustable club.  Find a golfstore where you can test a few different clubs... hit 10+ shots with each, switching back and forth every couple shots.  

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On 14/07/2016 at 0:24 AM, zero said:

My new used Callaway X2 Hot has a neutral/draw adjustment, as do many clubs. Help if you want it, none if you don't. I like it so far.

Great driver - I still use it, just try to get the shaft cut down an inch and a half to give you more control over the face :-)

As for draw biased drivers, I'd go with what everyone else is saying really - try to get an adjustable one and play around with it a bit. Long term, work on what there is in your swing that is causing the issue as anything spin related is just magnified with a driver.

Currently focusing on: Key 4 - shorter backswing.

What's in the bag: Callaway X2 Hot Driver, Titleist 915F 3 wood, X2 Hot 3 Hybrid, 3, 5-AW Apex Pro irons, 54*, 58* Cleveland RTX, Odyssey Versa 1 Putter

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/18/2016 at 10:56 AM, b101 said:

Great driver - I still use it, just try to get the shaft cut down an inch and a half to give you more control over the face :-)

As for draw biased drivers, I'd go with what everyone else is saying really - try to get an adjustable one and play around with it a bit. Long term, work on what there is in your swing that is causing the issue as anything spin related is just magnified with a driver.

I cut down my last one so I'm thinking about it with the X2 Hot... but it's new and pretty. What about altered swing weight, etc? I hate to mess with the meticulous work that they've engineered.

- adam -

Routine: work, eat, golf, sleep, repeat

Clubs: (All Used TaylorMade) Burner Superfast Driver, JetSpeed 3&5 FW, Rescue Hybrid, Burner 2.0 Irons 5-AW, ATV Wedge 56*, White Ghost blade putter

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Note: This thread is 2825 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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