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Posted
On 4/26/2016 at 9:34 PM, SavvySwede said:

That's a pretty cringe-worthy list. One of them isn't even legal and with the exception of the DUO they are all no better than Pinnacle Golds.

Agree. Only two of those six are even on the conforming ball list. Also a ton of misinformation on that page, including a lazy inaccurate explanation of handicap.

And then there's the statement that two piece balls have less spin and help reduce slices off the tee, which is completely backwards. The main point of additional layers is to reduce spin off the tee, without losing it around the greens. So all else equal, the two piece design would spin more on tee shots. Also not true that they will help "cover greater distances".

And they also misidentify the Duo as a three-piece (It's a two-piece).

And the suggestion that changing the ball would make a big difference for high handicappers is also rubbish. At that stage, the ball matters very little.

So if a very high handicapper is losing lots of balls and just wants the cheapest ball possible, I'd go with the Wilson Extra Distance in the sack at Walmart for 24 for $10 (if they still have those). Not an impressive ball, but at least it's worth the price (and conforming). For a step up to a little more playable ball, I like the Precept Laddie X, which runs around 24 for $18. Or the Wilson 50 Elite at around $12 a dozen. All good balls for when you don't want to worry about the ones you'll hit into the lake or woods.


Posted

- only recycled balls, these is no reason to buy new these days.
- no Titleist, every stiff on the course uses them including everyone in my regular group, I want to know my ball easily without tons of marks.
- no crappy balls, I may not be a good player, but I like the ball to have some feel, you get what you pay for and it's widely agreed that cheap balls play like crap.
- no need to stick with one ball type, that's bunk IMO, I really doubt any player will lose or gain one stroke by changing balls.

I like Taylormade balls, Project A, Tour Preferred, Aeroburner Pro, all fine with me. I also go with Bridgestone when no TM is available recycled, which is rare.


Posted

I've messed about with several different brands and models of golf balls over the years. My favorite was the hex chrome+. Being a mid range price ball it gave me a lot more control around the greens than the cheaper options without breaking the bank given how many I tend to lose over the course of several rounds. Now I'm back to the drawing board. I'm testing both the wilson staff DUO urethane right now along with the taylor made project a. I played the project a last year and liked it well enough. It was my second favorite behind the chrome+ but it's a few dollars more per dozen so I didn't use it much. There's a dollar difference between the duo-u and the project a and I'm not really seeing any appreciable difference at this point. So, unless I find another option in the $27-$30 range I'll be using the project a this year. I liked the snell and monsta golf balls but with shipping they end up costing as much and I don't have the easy option of being able to grab a dozen on short notice if need be because I basically never buy more than a dozen at a time.

KICK THE FLIP!!

In the bag:
:srixon: Z355

:callaway: XR16 3 Wood
:tmade: Aeroburner 19* 3 hybrid
:ping: I e1 irons 4-PW
:vokey: SM5 50, 60
:wilsonstaff: Harmonized Sole Grind 56 and Windy City Putter

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Posted

I could care less for the most part ... as long as it's not an old rock flite or Nitro.    I just don't see any difference on the scorecard when I use premium balls...

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Posted

I'm a high handicapper. But, I love playing with a ball that feels soft and solid. It's just a part of the game that I like.

Titleist just finished their 'Loyalty' program for the Pro V1 and V1x. Buy 3 doz get an extra dozen free. Plus you get free personalization, whatever number you want  (or mixed) and in what ever color you want for your initials and number.

Works out to just over $3.00 a ball. I can't wait to get 'em. I don't really hit the ball far enough to lose many of 'em. Unless they get scuffed up, hitting a tree branch or cart path, 4 or 5 dozen will last a year. And then there is the water.... NXT Tour S for that hole. :)

BTW I don't carry a ball retriever. And I don't bother picking up any lost balls that I find. I just leave 'em for someone else to find. It might just make their day.

Too much ball for me? Why, yes they are. But, I love hitting them.

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Posted
On March 29, 2016 at 10:25 PM, Buckeyebowman said:

I do like the Pro V1 and V1x, but what disturbs me is that going on the Titleist website, one can find no explanation of the difference between the two balls. As far as I know, they are one and the same! My choice these days is the Precept Laddie. It goes like hell when the weather is cold in the early Spring, and performs well at other times. I can get two dozen of them for about $20, where the ProV1's cost me close to $50 a dozen! I'm sorry, but I don't own a 50 buck a dozen game these days!

Yep the Precept Laddie.  Great ball and only & only $18/two dozen at Walmart.  Everybody lives close to a Walmart.  


Posted

Am currently experimenting with the Inesis 520 soft in yellow.  Saw them in Decathlon at a bit under $10 for a dozen and decided they were worth a punt.  Find them to be a decent, though not great golf ball.  No complaints about the distance though spin around the green is not great.  Because I am currently playing once a week at best, can't really play my short game well enough to get a ball to check up regularly, so playing the pitch and run mostly and this ball works fine for that.  When I was playing more regularly (generally three times a week at my peak), then I would use better balls like the Titleist NXT, which I felt was a better ball for my game than the ProV1's.  Less sidespin and the ball dropped and stopped rather than spinning backwards on a well hit wedge shot

What's in the bag

  • Taylor Made r5 dual Draw 9.5* (stiff)
  • Cobra Baffler 4H (stiff)
  • Taylor Made RAC OS 6-9,P,S (regular)
  • Golden Bear LD5.0 60* (regular)
  • Aidia Z-009 Putter
  • Inesis Tour 900 golf ball
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Posted

The big difference I find between higher end balls and budget balls is green holding. Shots into greens stop, back a tad. A pinnacle gold for example, is plenty long but tends to roll out a bit more on shots into the green. The pinnacles and other budget balls last longer, tougher cover, but that tough cover limits spin too. I think

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Posted

It depends on course or conditions. I try to play harder when the course is long or there's bad weather, they seem to spin less and give me more control. But if the conditions are good and I'm comfortable in my swing, I go with something soft. Brands don't mean too much me though.

In the bag:
Driver: R9 Supertri
3W: R9
3i-PW: Mizuno Mp-68
Wedges: Taylormade Racs
Putter: PING Redwood blade

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Posted

For years I played Titleist NXT Tour S.

Now that my swing has improved and I don't lose balls as much as before (these days I lose one ball per round at most) I have switched to Pro V1 and I love them. Hard to say why. Great feeling off the club face, nice flight, stops on the green, putts nice, etc. My drives are better, my irons shots are better.

I do not like Pro V1x. It feels harder off the face.


Posted

I guess this is more of a question than an answer to the thread, but I'm having a hard time getting matched up with a golf ball.  Most of the quizzes or "fittings" correlate swing speed to handicap.  So they offer a ball that is meant for swing speeds around 90 or so for my handicap.  My driver swing speed is around 115-120 generally, depending on how loose I feel.  It's hard for me to find a ball meant for high swing speeds that doesn't have a ton of spin.  A lot of spin means my occasional slice may turn into a jet to the right.  I was using Nike SuperFars, but can't find them nearby, and I felt that the "Far" part wasn't really doing much.  However, they felt decent around the greens.  I bought Nike PD Longs today before my round thinking they'd be similar, but I hated them.  Felt the same off the driver (but much shorter), and my sand wedge, which was stopping within a few feet if not coming back with the old balls, was rolling out a ton.

I guess my question is, what is a good ball to balance the spin off the driver with spin around the greens, while still getting good distance?  I realize I just asked for the perfect ball, but I guess I need a literally balanced ball, not one that markets towards one of those goal.


Posted
On 5/5/2016 at 11:38 PM, chilepepper said:

The big difference I find between higher end balls and budget balls is green holding. Shots into greens stop, back a tad. A pinnacle gold for example, is plenty long but tends to roll out a bit more on shots into the green. The pinnacles and other budget balls last longer, tougher cover, but that tough cover limits spin too. I think

That's a good point. One of the last times my buddy and I were out, he was hitting a ball that made a resounding "crack!" off the clubface, and that would just dance on the greens! After a few holes of this I asked him what ball he was playing. Pro V-1's! He got a couple dozen as a Christmas gift. Of course, in his house it is understood that all Christmas and birthday gifts are to be golf related!

Just reminded me of how nice those balls are. And how much I wish someone would gift me with a couple dozen. I'm available for adoption if anyone's interested!

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Posted

I found this interesting:

http://www.golfwrx.com/370576/snell-the-pros-and-cons-of-premium-golf-balls/

At the start of my most recent round I was playing a "Distance" ball.  A couple shots (approach wedge and an 8 iron) hit near the hole and then bounded over the green.  I switched to a ProV1 after making a hash of those two holes.  It did seem to help as far as holding the green but my "test" was really not large enough to confirm Mr. Snell's position.

Brian Kuehn

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Posted (edited)

E6, as I have a slow swing speed, I like the distance and feel off the club along with the additional carry distance, price is within my budget. I tired Callaway chrome like them also but a bit more pricey.

with the addition of the Big Bertha Alpha 815 Double D it just flies.

Edited by Deed

Posted (edited)

used Callaway tour versions from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Callaway-Tour-AAAA-Pre-Owned-Balls/dp/B00WGZFNVS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

For 8 bucks you cant go wrong balls are in pretty decent conditon.  I feel like they are not perfect off the tee or around the green but do a really good mesh of the 2. 

Though I may regret telling you guys because of stock levels.  I will eventually be the golfer that only needs a dozen or so a year though. So maybe it won't be too bad.

 

Edited by sirhacksalot
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Posted (edited)

Living on a course has its benefits. One being I have more golf balls of every make than I know what to do with. I have only been playing the noodles (I know I suck but I think I hate them) Pinnacle Gold and Nike Mojos. I have no real complaints about the later two other than I get excited when I see my ball hit the green and then depressed when watch it bounce and roll off the back so I'm thinking about starting to use some other balls. Debating between trying out a dozen of the DT Solos or Velocity (Titleist) or a dozen of the Bstone E6. Leaning E6 but what day you TSTers?  I shit (oddly appropriate typo should say shot but I'm leaving it) a 113 last weekend btw. Haha 

Also someone gave me a sleeve of Bridgestone Fixx golf balls. Has anyone hit those?  Maybe start my round out with them. 

Edited by Gator Hazard
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Posted

Pro V1x when I am playing seriously (i.e., tournaments or $ on the line) because it goes further than Pro V1 and, at least for me, has higher trajectory on approach shots.

If I am playing a casual round, anything (but top rocks or pinnacles - way too hard for me) I find in my bag.

Don

:titleist: 910 D2, 8.5˚, Adila RIP 60 S-Flex
:titleist: 980F 15˚
:yonex: EZone Blades (3-PW) Dynamic Gold S-200
:vokey:   Vokey wedges, 52˚; 56˚; and 60˚
:scotty_cameron:  2014 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2

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    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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