Jump to content
IGNORED

Removing tape from graphite shafts; heat gun?


Note: This thread is 2678 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

I'm going to change the grips on my clubs and this is the first time I will be doing it myself.  I've watched several youtube videos and it seems like a pretty easy job.

I've seen the recommendation and use of a heat gun to heat up the tape to make it easier to remove.  The demo was with a steel shaft.  Is this okay to do with a graphite shaft?

How do you recommend removing tape?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I use mineral spirits, a paper towel, and my thumb nails.  The most tedious aspect of the entire process is removing old tape.  Usually, the longer its been on there the tougher it is to remove.  Haven't ever used a heat gun.

  • Upvote 3

In der bag:
Cleveland Hi-Bore driver, Maltby 5 wood, Maltby hybrid, Maltby irons and wedges (23 to 50) Vokey 59/07, Cleveland Niblick (LH-42), and a Maltby mallet putter.                                                                                                                                                 "When the going gets tough...it's tough to get going."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Moderator

I've used hair driers to remove tape on graphite shafts. It should be fine.

  • Upvote 2

Philip Kohnken, PGA
Director of Instruction, Lake Padden GC, Bellingham, WA

Srixon/Cleveland Club Fitter; PGA Modern Coach; Certified in Dr Kwon’s Golf Biomechanics Levels 1 & 2; Certified in SAM Putting; Certified in TPI
 
Team :srixon:!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I too have used mineral oil on graphite shaft to remove the old tape. Mineral oil tends to soften the tape. The longer it is left on, the softer the tape gets, and the easier it is to peel off. 

Once you get the tape off, clean the area with warm soapy water to remove all the oil residue. Then dry the area thorughly before applying the new stuff. 

In My Bag:
A whole bunch of Tour Edge golf stuff...... :beer:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

1 hour ago, Piz said:

 Usually, the longer its been on there the tougher it is to remove.

If the tape is hard and crusty, a heat gun won't help that much. Mineral spirits, with fingernails for clean-up, is the best way to go.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Moderator
6 hours ago, phillyk said:

I've used hair driers to remove tape on graphite shafts. It should be fine.

Yep this ^^^^^

Mike McLoughlin

Check out my friends on Evolvr!
Follow The Sand Trap on Twitter!  and on Facebook
Golf Terminology -  Analyzr  -  My FacebookTwitter and Instagram 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Worst part of re-gripping my clubs.  Like others said, soften up old crusty tape is key to getting that stuff off.  I don't use my fingernails, though.  I tend to roll the tape up with my thumb until I can grab a section and tear it off in long strips.

Driver: Cobra FlyZ | 9.5 Degrees Draw | Fujikura Pro 63 Tour Spec
Fairway Wood: Cobra F7 3-4 Wood | 14.5 degrees | Fujikura Pro 65
Hybrid: Cobra F7 3-4H | 19 degrees | Fujikura Pro 75H
Irons: Srixon Z545 (4-Iron) | Srixon Z 765 (5-PW)
Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM6 | 50 F Grind | 54 M Grind | 58 K Grind
Putter: Odyssey O-Works 1W WBW

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Moderator

I've never tried it, but what if you just spray water (maybe soapy water) on it, let it absorb for a few minutes, rinse and repeat maybe? Like for pesky wallpaper removal. Let the water do the hard work.

Steve

Kill slow play. Allow walking. Reduce ineffective golf instruction. Use environmentally friendly course maintenance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

you might try the product "Goo b Gone" I used it for removing decals off plastic, motorcycles e.t.c.  Just squirt a little on, let it sit for a bit, and rub clean.

"James"

:titleist: 913 D3 with Aldila RIP Phenom 60 4,2 Regular Shaft,  :touredge: Exotics XCG-7 Beta 3W with Matrix Red Tie Shaft:touredge: Exotics EX8 19 deg Hybrid w UST Mamiya Recoil F3 Shaft:touredge: Exotics EX9 28 deg Hybrid w UST Mamiya Recoil F3  shaft, / Bobby Jones Black 22 deg Hybrid:touredge: Exotics EXi 6 -PW  w UST Mamiya Recoil F2 Shaft, SW (56),GW (52),LW (60):touredge:  TGS),/ ODDYSEE Metal-X #7 customized putter (400G, cut down Mid Belly)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I see no problem with a heat gun. I used one when doing mine. The grips on the clubs I did were ~4+ years old stock grips. 

Grip tape has a pretty conservative amount of adhesive. It doesn't take much heat at all to get the adhesive to soften enough to pull it off cleanly. It can't possibly hurt the shaft. It's not like you're baking them.

D: :tmade: R1 Stiff @ 10* 3W: :tmade: AeroBurner TP 15* 2H: :adams: Super 9031 18* 3-SW: :tmade: R9 Stiff P: :titleist: :scotty_cameron: Futura X7M 35"

Ball: Whatever. Something soft. Kirklands Signature are pretty schweeeet at the moment!

Bag: :sunmountain: C130 Cart Bag Push Cart: :sunmountain: Micro Cart Sport

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

So far I've taken tape off of the irons (steel shafts) with a heat gun.  I used a plastic putty knife to scrape the tape... I ended up with a groove in the putty knife because of the heat of the steel shaft.  Definately not going to use the heat gun on the graphite shafts.

I can feel confident I didn't damage the steel shafts.  Graphite shafts, how would I know if I damaged them or not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

As far as heat, the answer lies in the thermal properties of the graphite shafts.

I believe that the tolerance graphite (carbon fiber) is very high and exceeds what a heat gun can generate.  I was trying to find that number and saw a value of 1000*C on a website, but I'm not sure how that relates specifically to golf shafts.

It would be interesting research if one was inclined to find out.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

17 hours ago, No Mulligans said:

So far I've taken tape off of the irons (steel shafts) with a heat gun.  I used a plastic putty knife to scrape the tape... I ended up with a groove in the putty knife because of the heat of the steel shaft.  Definately not going to use the heat gun on the graphite shafts.

I can feel confident I didn't damage the steel shafts.  Graphite shafts, how would I know if I damaged them or not?

By heat gun do you mean similar to a hair dryer? I have worked on clubs for years and I found that using a dryer type heat gun works very well on removing tape. The biggest thing with any type heat is to not leave the heat directly on one spot for any length of time. I always move the heat up and down the area I am trying to heat and not leave it in one place but constantly keep it moving. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


2 hours ago, shanksalot said:

By heat gun do you mean similar to a hair dryer? I have worked on clubs for years and I found that using a dryer type heat gun works very well on removing tape. The biggest thing with any type heat is to not leave the heat directly on one spot for any length of time. I always move the heat up and down the area I am trying to heat and not leave it in one place but constantly keep it moving. 

I believe we are talking about the same thing.  It's called a "Heat Gun", I have this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBJMGKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it as you described.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

If that does not remove the tape you may have to follow the other choice to use a solvent to loosen up the tape. Another think you can do if you can't get the tape off either way is to just put your double sided tape over the existing tape on the shaft. It will make the grip a little larger but it would almost be nonexistent to you. If you do go this way just try one and after it dries grab the club by the shaft and see if it feels different. I would not offer this except if you just can't get the tape off. One piece of tape under the double sided tape should not make much of a difference Just trying to offer a solution. You don't have to do it just another thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 2678 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Popular Now

  • Posts

    • Day 126 (18 Apr 24) - Trail arm only drill with the LW…focused on letting the club drop, engaging the bounce and letting the club pop the ball up….wrapped up by repeating drill with both hands on the club…
    • OPPs, I guess I have been doing the drill incorrectly, just ignore this.  But as they say, mistakes are learning opportunities. Let’s hope I can learn from mine.
    • Some thoughts after the 1st 9 holes of the year. The driver was pretty good, nothing crazy. My miss seems to be just a push. The start line is a bit too far right for my taste, but they are drawing back at least. Hitting middle-ish of the face to slightly toe. Part of the right miss is a bit of open face and off the toe slightly.  Irons, some really good strikes, others were not so good. I am feeling a few things, when I am being mindful of the swing I made.  1) Got to get the pause down again, and keep things shorter (as usual). One of the best iron shots was when I tried to mimic Rahm's swing length, lol. I caught a flier and hit an 8-iron like 190 yards into an area of no return for that golf ball. The swing felt great 😉  2) I got to stay taller in transition, feel like I gain tons of space between my hands and my chest. The bad swing is the old swing, bad right elbow, tilt to lower the club. This was too much shallowing, and hitting the ball fat. I just think of it this way, you are bent over, and you can reach the ball at address. So, you can reach the ball at impact by getting your hands down.  3) The final thing is the timing. It might take some time to get some flow into the swing. Timing up hands down and the turn is a bit off. Focusing on the hands down kind of stalls everything for me, at least it feels like my hips do not turn. I end up hitting a decent strike, just feels meh athletically, lol.  Short game was Ok, which means pretty good for not practicing it. Not short, but not round destroying.  Putting, doing much better now that I quickened up my routine. Line up, looking at my target. Glance down at the ball to get into my stance. Glance up at my target spot again, then hit the ball with in like 1-2 seconds after looking back down at the ball. Trying not to get to static over the ball while putting.   
    • Oh I'm dumb, I just noticed I did the MyStrategy from the wrong tee box. I don't think it changes anything, though. I'll play it as a three shot hole and I still don't really want to miss right (guy I played with on Sunday never found his ball he hit just over the trees right). I think the trees left are considered part of the environmentally sensitive area because it's part of the drainage area for the course. I actually like this hole a lot. I'll try to remember to take a picture next time. I probably overestimated the wind speed. We had sustained winds of like 12-15mph with gusts up to 25mph. The wind is actually forecast to be WNW on Saturday instead of WSW like was when I played on Sunday so if I play this hole again the wind will be pushing towards that bunker. Similar speeds, though. Wind is always a factor at this course because there's really nothing blocking it. I'm definitely going to have to pay attention to it, especially with the wind. I hit a handful of short iron approaches a lot farther than I thought I would on Sunday. As of right now the only thing I know for sure is I'm starting on Ridge. I don't know if the back 9 will be played on Meadow or Lake.
    • Day 113: 4/18/24 Stack training progress check after finishing my 6th program, and 4th Full Speed Spectrum Training session, which is recommended for my next program.     Gained 1 mph with driver, 195 g, 95g. Maintained with 280 g , and gained 2 with 145 g. Lost 1 mph on both lead and trail arm. Felt like I lost distance in my last round…
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...