Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 3026 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

No reason to spend the extra money.  Make sure the shaft (the engine, imho) that comes along with the used club is up to snuff.

Driver: Taylormade M3 (9o) with Mitsubishi Tensei Blue 65 Stiff-flex shaft.  3-wood: Tour Edge Exotics CB2 (15o) with Fujikura Regular-flex

3H: Tour Edge (18o) with R-flex 80g shaft.  4H: 22o  Taylormade Rbz Stage 2 with R-flex shaft.

Irons (5-PW): Titleist 804os with True Temper reg. flex shaft.  Wedges: 50o deg Titleist SM-7 12o bounce F grind, 56o (bent to 54o) Cleveland RTG sand wedge, Cleveland RTX-3 CB 58o wedge 9o bounce.

Putter: TaylorMade Ghost Monte Carlo w/Super Stroke 2.0 grip

 


Posted
17 minutes ago, No Mulligans said:

I don't like to buy used clubs, I do like to buy previous years model new.

 

I agree. Older models already have a track record, and the technology doesn’t change too much from one year to the next.

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I won't buy used equipment, but I occasionally find good deal on new equipment that has been replaced by a newer model. I just picked up a Srixon F45 fairway wood off of Rock Bottom Golf for $70. I actually looked at getting one about a year and a half ago. Didn't pull the trigger because they wouldn't do PUD.

Great little club that I hope will fill the gaping hole in my bag left by my current 3 wood which is a bogey waiting to happen.

Danny    In my :ping: Hoofer Tour golf bag on my :clicgear: 8.0 Cart

Driver:   :pxg: 0311 Gen 5  X-Stiff.                        Irons:  :callaway: 4-PW APEX TCB Irons 
3 Wood: :callaway: Mavrik SZ Rogue X-Stiff                            Nippon Pro Modus 130 X-Stiff
3 Hybrid: :callaway: Mavrik Pro KBS Tour Proto X   Wedges: :vokey:  50°, 54°, 60° 
Putter: :odyssey:  2-Ball Ten Arm Lock        Ball: :titleist: ProV 1

 

 

 

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted (edited)

Some interesting testing done on the last 5 years worth of drivers from Taylor Made (20, yes 20, drivers in the last 5 years for the company). They are tested on a launch monitor, and the results show very little gain in the newest drivers. 2014 SLDR actually tested out as the longest and there was a 7 yard gain from the 2012 driver to the 2017 M2. Seems buying a few generations ago equipment will do most of just fine.

Similar tests also have been done for the major manufacturers. 

 

Edited by gogolfing

Ping G 410 10.5 ˚ Driver Ping Tour Stiff Shaft
Ping G 410 14.5˚ 3 Ping Tour Stiff Shaft
Ping G 410 19˚ Ping Tour Stiff Shaft
i 500 irons 4-UW 1/2 inch over, blue dot, NS Pro Modus 105 Stiff Shafts
Ping Stealth Wedges Wedges  54˚ 58˚

Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 34" 


Posted

My favorite clubs were all bought new, but outdated. I got 3 tight lies 2 hybrids for $39, $49, and $29. I also got a tight lies 2 3 wood for $39. All were still in the plastic. 

 


Posted

Used clubs and year prior models are fine for me. 

  :sunmountain: eco lite stand Bag
:tmade: Sim 2 Max driver
 :callaway: Mavrick 20 * hybrid
:tmade: M2 3HL                               :mizuno: JPX 923 5-gw                           

 Lazrus 52, 56 wedges

:scotty_cameron:
:true_linkswear:-Lux Hybrid, Lux Sport, Original 1.2

:clicgear:


Posted

I don't think that you are losing much, if anything, with going with a club that is a generation or two old. The more important thing is whether or not that club fits you.

Tristan Hilton

My Equipment: 
Titleist TSR2 Driver (Fujikura Pro 2.0 TS; 10.5°) · PXG 0211 FWs (Diamana S+ 60; 15° and 21°) · PXG 0211 Hybrid (MMT 80; 22°) · Edel SMS Irons (SteelFiber i95; 5-GW) · Edel SMS Pro Wedges (SteelFiber i110; 56°, 60°) · Edel Classic Blade Putter (32") · Maxfli Tour Ball · Pinned Prism Rangefinder · SuperStroke Grips · Flightscope Mevo · TRUE Linkswear Shoes · Vessel Player V Pro 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I have always went with spending more money does not always equal better results. I think this is especially true when buying golf clubs. The brand matters little, and is more of a personal (mental?) thing. 

In the OP's case, pocket book wise, it might be easier to get better $50 dollar results, than better $189 results. Will the final scoring numbers be worth the extra $139 difference over time? 

In My Bag:
A whole bunch of Tour Edge golf stuff...... :beer:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I have purchased both new but a model year older and used if the club looks in great shape.  If you have it and are buying used on the internet use PayPal in case their is a problem.  I agree that a year or 2 older model has an established track record and in many ways is a safer buy.  Actually, I still play the Ping G15 driver that I purchased new when the G30 was already on the market.  I have tried most of the next generation Ping "G" drivers including the G400 and hit them about as well as the G15.

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I think what is Most important that The club specs are what you need,  not The amound off money you spend. If a 50 $ club does iT for you than there is no need to spend more. I like to have The same feel on my woods so i would like The same Shaft type in them

Dirver: Mizuno JPX 825 9,5 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 65 g.
3 wood: Mizuno JPX 825 14 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 75 g.
Hybrid: Mizuno JPX 825 18 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 85 g. 
Irons: Mizuno MP 59 3 / PW KBS Tour stiff shaft ( Golf Pride Niion )
Wedges: Taylormade ATV Wedges 52 and 58 ( Golf Pride Niion )
putter: Taylormade ghost series 770 35 inch ( Super Stroke slim 3.0 )
Balls: Taylormade TP 5


Note: This thread is 3026 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I had two events the past two days. Yesterday I was playing a course blind. Hit it solid. Hit 9/14 fairways, 12/18 greens, 34 putts. Many of those putts were the result of balls that were close-ish to the hole when they landed, but wound up a long way away once they'd finished rolling (backwards mainly). Then today, hit 11/13 fairways, 11/18 greens, 37 putts, and shot 80. 8 over par and it wasn't particularly pretty. My big problem today was my pitching. I was inside 100 yards of the hole and off the green on 9 occasions.  1st - drive to about 75 yards, fanned a 58 degree short and right. On the green, but a good 40 feet away and good two putt from there (so took 3) 2nd - laid up to a bunker and it's narrow past it, so had 165 in, missed it right with an 8 iron. Wet rough, chip from about 5 yards off the green and the club snagged. It got on the green, but only temporarily. Overcorrected a bit on the next one and hit it a bit firm and it rolled out to about 35 feet. Putt didn't break and it ran on a bit and I missed the one back (greens were fast and a little bumpy, which didn't help, but doesn't excuse either). (took 5 to get down from close to the green) 4th - had about 95 from the right rough, hit it on the green and two putts (3) 5th - 90 from the fairway, tugged it and it got a firm bounce, chipped on and hit what I thought was a decent chip, but it ran out down the hill and two putts from 20 feet (4) 7th - 65 from the fairway, significant upslope and hit it a bit hard, ran long left against the collar. Tried to blade a PW, but it got under a bit so didn't advance it anything like far enough. Made a good two putt from there (4) 11th - 63 from the fairway, hit a squirrelly pitch on the green and two putts (3) 12th - 75 from the semi-rough, caught it a bit clean and it wound up on the back edge. Putting down a tier and it ran 8 feet past (that was actually a really good putt and couldn't have done any better I don't think) and missed that (4) 13th - 55 from the fairway, overcorrected and hit the big ball before the small ball. Then made a stellar up and down from 25 yards short to an elevated green with a putter (3) 15th - down in three from a greenside bunker (3) That was it. The other 9 holes I hit it on the green from outside 100 yards. So on those 9 occasions, I took 32 shots to get in the hole. 3.56 average. Terrible. Reason I'm posting this in here is to see if anyone has any suggestions for how to work on my contact with pitch shots. I don't have access to a grass range. Only mats and it's easy off a mat. Partly I think my problem is I've hit it off mats so much this winter that I've lost my judgement on where the ball is versus the ground because of the leeway granted. Open to ideas. I also suspect that under pressure I stand a bit closer to it and then get steep and hit down on it and it puts me in a bad place, but I can't seem to get myself to not do that. 
    • “Well the world needs ditch diggers too!” - Judge Smails
    • Day 251 4-30 Worked on pelvis "going back" slightly in transition. Once i started getting some feel for it, added in wrist arching through. All done slower. 
    • I've been putting whilst looking at the hole and it's definitely helped my distance control
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.