Buying 1 or 2 generation old clubs to save money

[gregsandiego]

I really need  a 5 hybrid. The latest Cobra is about $189. Fmax I think. But if I go with the older Fly Z, even brand new, it's about $50.

Any reason to spend the extra money on the latest? 

 

[Rip62]

That’s how I buy my clubs. I’d rather do that and put the money toward playing more often.

[Piz]

If you find a club that gives you the trajectory and distance you are looking for; why spend more?  

[MrGolfguy67]

25 minutes ago, gregsandiego said:

Any reason to spend the extra money on the latest? 

 

No

[Jackal1966]

I love to buy  last years  (or older) clubs at a great  price. 

We bought some Cobra Amp Cell fwy woods 2 years ago.

$45 shipped, new in plastic.

Global golf had shafts $12, and free shipping for 8+ shafts. 

It was fantastic.  We also bought some new 2014 Big Bertha fwy woods for $50-$65.

We are still playing these older clubs.

Every now and then we hit demo clubs at pro shop.

Until we hit something better, we're  not buying this years latest and greatest.

Edited December 20, 2017 by Jackal1966

[gregsandiego]

So most agree and I just bought a $49 Cobra hybrid off of ebay.

 

 

[MarvChamp]

5 hours ago, gregsandiego said:

So most agree and I just bought a $49 Cobra hybrid off of ebay.

 

 

Good on ya! An early adopter of new (esp. new tech in clubs) generally must base decisions on limited info. Buying a bit older clubs gives you the benefit of reviews by many other users and testers, plus your own experience and the technical and marketing statements of the mfr. Best Christmas ever to all, -Marv

[dbuck]

What I usually do including used sometimes.

 

 

[allenc]

In my opinion the only reason to buy the latest model club is for the free fitting and custom build that usually comes with it.  If you're buying a stock club then buying this year's model is just throwing money in the garbage.

Edited December 20, 2017 by allenc

[gregsandiego]

8 hours ago, allenc said:

In my opinion the only reason to buy the latest model club is for the free fitting and custom build that usually comes with it.  If you're buying a stock club then buying this year's model is just throwing money in the garbage.

I'm surprised that nobody (unless I missed it) stood up for the latest and greatest.

 

[tehuti]

I generally don’t like to buy used, but brand new year old or more models at a discount. Absolutely.

[WUTiger]

On 12/19/2017 at 9:39 PM, gregsandiego said:

But if I go with the older Fly Z, even brand new, it's about $50.

I picked up my second FlyZ hybrid for about $65, including shipping (almost new).

Got fitted for the 3-4H about two years ago, and got a 4-5H just recently. Both have the 73-gram senior flex Matrix VLCT Altus shaft. All my other shafts are R-flex... its just the heavier senior works in hybrid.

I was looking for a 2-3H to play at 19*, but lofted the 3-4H down to 19* from 22*, and play the 4-5H down at 22. (I get shorter shafts for control without having to cut anything off).

And with adjustables, you can tweak a club a little once you get it and test it out.

Don't know your FW situation, but a FlyZ 3-4FW set at 16* or a 5-7FW set at 17* would make a good single fairway if you prefer hybrids as bridge clubs.

[amishboy51]

On 12/19/2017 at 10:39 PM, gregsandiego said:

I really need  a 5 hybrid. The latest Cobra is about $189. Fmax I think. But if I go with the older Fly Z, even brand new, it's about $50.

Any reason to spend the extra money on the latest? 

 

@gregsandiego Just curious, because buying a new, older generation club makes a lot of sense to me. But do the sellers list the year of manufacture (because I couldn’t see many ads with years listed)? Thanks.

[WUTiger]

4 hours ago, amishboy51 said:

But do the sellers list the year of manufacture (because I couldn’t see many ads with years listed)? Thanks.

Ways to track down this info:

• Hot List issues: Keep the Golf Digest HL issues from year to year, and you can page back and see when a club showed up. (Technically you can also search Hot List within GD site, but you often have to click onto a dozen sub-links to find - maybe - what you really want).
• Manufacturer's sites: Some manufacturers keep archives on their web sites. Titleist is the best, with Tour Edge and TaylorMade also doing this. Callaway gives fairly good info on their Callaway Preowned site. These OEM sites also give info on the club specs.
• Search for reviews: The date of the review often gets you within a year of when a particular club model came out.

[cape cod beachfront golfer]

Just last month I bought a used 2015 Great Big Bertha head online. The head had small differences in what I expected... ex: glossy not matte crown. Callaway DID sell Udesign clubs that year with a glossy head? Or so I was told.  So I figured I would email Callaway with the serial number to confirm it was authentic. Took about 3 weeks but Callaway did get back to me... sort of. Told me they DO NOT validate whether a club is authentic or not. Then gave me standard .... buy at an authorized dealer language.  My point...  there are fake clubs out there and you will not get any support from Callaway if you buy used. BTW I have bought clubs from Callaway's PreOwned shop online. I considered sending them a second email with the serial number from one of those clubs to see if I got the same crap answer. I must say I was shocked at their reply. Club is playing well so I will assume it is authentic... fingers-crossed.

[gregsandiego]

13 hours ago, amishboy51 said:

@gregsandiego Just curious, because buying a new, older generation club makes a lot of sense to me. But do the sellers list the year of manufacture (because I couldn’t see many ads with years listed)? Thanks.

Not in any easy way. It's completely ambiguous. Although I see others here provided some ideas on how to figure it out.

4 hours ago, cape cod beachfront golfer said:

Just last month I bought a used 2015 Great Big Bertha head online. The head had small differences in what I expected... ex: glossy not matte crown. Callaway DID sell Udesign clubs that year with a glossy head? Or so I was told.  So I figured I would email Callaway with the serial number to confirm it was authentic. Took about 3 weeks but Callaway did get back to me... sort of. Told me they DO NOT validate whether a club is authentic or not. Then gave me standard .... buy at an authorized dealer language.  My point...  there are fake clubs out there and you will not get any support from Callaway if you buy used. BTW I have bought clubs from Callaway's PreOwned shop online. I considered sending them a second email with the serial number from one of those clubs to see if I got the same crap answer. I must say I was shocked at their reply. Club is playing well so I will assume it is authentic... fingers-crossed.

Or I guess if it's playing well it doesn't matter either way.

[billchao]

On 12/20/2017 at 10:41 PM, gregsandiego said:

I'm surprised that nobody (unless I missed it) stood up for the latest and greatest.

For a hybrid? The technology doesn't progress that quickly.

Even with drivers, the improvements are marginal. Most people don't feel the value is there. I usually tell people, if their equipment is more than ten years old, it's worth looking at newer clubs. If the difference is only a year or two though, I wouldn't buy it unless I had nothing else to do with my money.

[gregsandiego]

On 12/22/2017 at 4:09 PM, billchao said:

For a hybrid? The technology doesn't progress that quickly.

Even with drivers, the improvements are marginal. Most people don't feel the value is there. I usually tell people, if their equipment is more than ten years old, it's worth looking at newer clubs. If the difference is only a year or two though, I wouldn't buy it unless I had nothing else to do with my money.

10 years seems about right. At least at that age the clubs seem to look different.