Used both on my Yeti, which was really light for a MTB. Cheap disc brakes suck, had some on a beater Specialized MTB I bought on CL to commute to work. Good disc brakes are great but spendy. Tubeless is a PITA if you live in the country or anywhere with road debris. Even using Stan's I had a flat a week it seemed an don road repairs with tubeless is a hassle to impossible.
I am more old school. If I needed a bike I'd go fixie, coaster and tubes. I swear I was faster on my 50's Western Flyer than my Yeti. On hills I'd pass all the spandex wannabe's and that heavy beast could take a pothole with minimal shock.
Doesn't really count but I watched the vlog from Mark crossfield which gave a pretty good view of the course. The linked article includes links to the vlog so if you haven't seen it before it might be interesting:
I have several tactics for getting my golf gloves through a sweaty round:
I carry a bunch, and swap them out as necessary.
I don't wear a glove unless I'm hitting a shot.
I wipe my hand off when I go to put my glove on.
I carry my glove rather than putting it in my pocket when I'm walking up the fairway (if possible).
When I putt, I place the glove on top of my bag with my putter cover (to avoid putting it in my pocket).
Basically, the goal is to allow them to air out as much as possible.
When I went to "traditional" lofts changing irons earlier this year it meant bringing a 3 iron in so I dropped the 58 and 54 is my most lofted wedge. I don't miss the 58 and I really only used it because it was that or pare down to 13 clubs, which I did when I walked. I am not often looking at full swing shots with wedges so their gap is meaningless to me. From 100 in it's anything from 8 iron to most lofted wedge. From 50 in it's typically some variation of a flighted pitch to a specific area of the green, rare to fly it to a flag. In the sand I've never had one club to get out. Anything longer than 5-10 yards usually means opening up a 50 or more and hitting it hard to get it to the green