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Do I need a 60 degree wedge?


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I put a 60 in the bag about a year ago. I initially got it so I could hit full swing approach shots from 60-70 yards.  I also carry a 55 (had the loft strengthened a little to fit with my other lofts for wedges) which was my go to club for a lot of shots partial shots around the green and pretty consistent full swing 85 yard shot.  Was hoping that the 60 would be similar to the 55 in consistency of ball contact for full swing shots.  Sadly, it hasn't worked out that way. If you catch it a little fat it just kills the distance.  Maybe that's worked into my confidence with the club and I often mishit it.  On a different note, I used to use the 55 as my sand wedge and have found that the 60 is a better mouse trap there for me.  Jury is still out, I have mixed emotions about the club but, don't know what other club I'd put in the bag if I pulled this one out.

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Bruce

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I game a 52 & 58 for my wedges.  I like 2 better.  Leaves a slot open for another wood or a long iron.

52 has low bounce and I use it for tight lies, fairway shots, and tight, compacted sand.

58 has high bounce and I use that for tall grass, deep rough, and fluffy sand.

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On 10/14/2017 at 10:19 PM, MarvChamp said:

I was taught to pay attention to the bounce...High for soft conditions and bunker shots...Lower for firm tight lies and if you have shallow attack angles through impact. A lot of times, our fairways and even bunkers are pretty firm.

Turns out that may not matter so much. I have a video of me hitting a really high pitch shot off a really firm lie (very thin golf carpet laid directly on cement) with a 22° bounce wedge.

I've hit that same wedge off of putting greens to demonstrate using the bounce/glide before, too.

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On 10/14/2017 at 6:28 AM, billchao said:

Sand wedge or lob wedge, those are just names. What matters is the amount of bounce and the grind you have fits your game.

@billchao  Can you explain bounce and grind? 

Also, how do I find out the degree of my wedges... a protractor?  I have P, A, and S in the same brand, but yesterday I lost my 60* (which I use exclusively out of the sand).  

Barbara

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3 hours ago, Golfer gal said:

@billchao  Can you explain bounce and grind? 

https://golficity.com/demystifying-golf-club-bounce-and-grind/

That article does a pretty good job explaining the basics. Different grinds will affect the way the club interacts with the ground.

3 hours ago, Golfer gal said:

Also, how do I find out the degree of my wedges... a protractor?  I have P, A, and S in the same brand, but yesterday I lost my 60* (which I use exclusively out of the sand).  

You could take them into a shop to have them measured. It's not really something I ever considered measuring for myself without the proper tools, but I'm sure there's a way to make a jig to do it.

I generally just go by the manufacturer's specs for my clubs and assume nothing's changed over years of wear and tear. Google is your friend for that :-)

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I love my 60 degree. It is my primary choice around the greens unless a very specific situation calls for something different. I am starting to get pretty proficient at using it for high pitches and even chips that run. 

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I carried a 60* for awhile and found I did not use it all that much. I can open up my 56* if I need a little more height. I have only 12 clubs in my bag after I took out the 60* and my 3 wood that I no longer could hit consistently. If it does not work I take it out and put it away. In my estimation if you have a 58* you really do not need a 60*.

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1 hour ago, billchao said:

https://golficity.com/demystifying-golf-club-bounce-and-grind/

That article does a pretty good job explaining the basics. Different grinds will affect the way the club interacts with the ground.

You could take them into a shop to have them measured. It's not really something I ever considered measuring for myself without the proper tools, but I'm sure there's a way to make a jig to do it.

I generally just go by the manufacturer's specs for my clubs and assume nothing's changed over years of wear and tear. Google is your friend for that :-)

Thanks, @billchao!  Taylormade says my wedges are 43.5*, 49.5*, and 55.5*; that was way easier than a protractor! Good article on bounce, but I still don't really understand grind. I doubt it's important for my level of play, but I am worried about not having my 60-degree!  It was just a little off-brand nothing club, but it was my go-to for bunkers. :~(

Barbara

www.golfgirl.net 

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On 10/12/2017 at 11:20 PM, Old Golfer said:

Right now my highest lofted wedge is a 58 degree sand wedge. Does it make sense to get a 60 degree wedge or should I make do with the 58?

My highest wedge is my 56* sand wedge but I have room to add a 60* Lob wedge.  You have to ask yourself what is it that your 58* is not doing today?  Importantly, what bounce would you like on your 60* that can fulfill something your 58* doesn't provide.  I know for instance that if I end up adding a 60* it will be of a very low bounce (4*-6* bounce).  Just so you know, although Pelz has recommended using a 60*, it is well known that the average hacker (not saying at all that you are one) gets inconsistent carry and roll as the loft increases.  Hope that helps.

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My highest loft is a 58 also. I think I will buy a 60 degree, but not as a distance club, actually it will be the bunker club in my bag.

my 58 has only 8 degrees bounce, this makes it more suitable for all kids off shots only it will not help me in the bunker. 

I'm still not sure, because I have 14 clubs already. Can't seem to get rid of my good old 3 iron.

Dirver: Mizuno JPX 825 9,5 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 65 g.
3 wood: Mizuno JPX 825 14 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 75 g.
Hybrid: Mizuno JPX 825 18 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 85 g. 
Irons: Mizuno MP 59 3 / PW KBS Tour stiff shaft ( Golf Pride Niion )
Wedges: Taylormade ATV Wedges 52 and 58 ( Golf Pride Niion )
putter: Taylormade ghost series 770 35 inch ( Super Stroke slim 3.0 )
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No you don't need a 60° wedge. I personally don't see the need when you already have a 58° wedge.

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Practice opening the 58* to see how it works. I suspect after knowing how to manipulate the 58* club face, it will do everything the 60* does, in the same conditions. 

I have a 60 in my bag, but rarely use it anymore. 

I once found a 72* wedge at some store in Texas. (Academy ?) I figured what the heck and bought it. Took it to a driving range to give it a go. Couldn't even come close to anything respectable using it. 

A guy in the stall next to me asked me what my problem was. Told him I was just messing around with a 72 wedge. He wanted to give it a try. Nothing good for him either, and he became quite frustrated the more he used it. Come to find out he was there for some qualifier, and was a pretty good golfer. Also found out later, that 72* club screwed him up so bad, that he carded a huge number, and missed his cut. 

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On 1/14/2018 at 2:40 PM, Golfer gal said:

Thanks, @billchao!  Taylormade says my wedges are 43.5*, 49.5*, and 55.5*; that was way easier than a protractor! Good article on bounce, but I still don't really understand grind.

The Vokey wedge site tells you all about grind. The SM6  models come with five different sole grinds (scroll to bottom of link page).

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I vote no on the 60*. Too easy to thin or slide under it, too unreliable. It's a specialty club.

I am selling my 58*. My new philosophy is to have an uncluttered bag. I play AW 48* and SW 54.10*.I learned to hit my PW 60-65 yards using a 1/2 swing, so I have no need for an LW. And I can pitch or hit flops by opening up the 54.10*. 

 

 

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I really don't see the need to have anything higher lofted than a 56 in your bag.   58-60 are not too easy to hit full swings with, and a half-pw or 3/4 SW go the same distance, so they just kind of become specialty clubs around the green.   

just my opinion, but you're kind of opening yourself up to inconsistencies of you need a different club/shot for every shot around the greens.   instead, start by learning how to make a just a few shots work for most situations.    

 

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On 10/13/2017 at 12:20 AM, Old Golfer said:

Right now my highest lofted wedge is a 58 degree sand wedge. Does it make sense to get a 60 degree wedge or should I make do with the 58?

I said, before if you've got a 58° you don't need a 60°. (Which is the truth)

I forgot a very important question. (I'm on mobile, so I can't see your signature). You call your 58° a "sand wedge" So I assume that it has ample bounce. My question is, what is the bounce of your 58°?

Personally my 56, 58, and 60 all have 14° of bounce so they all are sand wedges to me... (I only usually have the 56° or 58° in the bag, depends on the depth of the bunkers whether I even entertain a 60°)

 

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  • 1 month later...
Note: This thread is 2168 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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